Ventilate wooden house installation technology facade. Wooden ventilated facade

In addition to this material.

Phased installation of a ventilated facade of wooden houses

In order for the design of the facade system to fully meet the requirements of reliability and durability, and also to perform its functions well, during its installation it is necessary to observe a set of specific rules.

Traditionally, timber 150x150 mm is used for the construction of wooden residential buildings, and in order to maintain a comfortable air temperature in the winter cold, additional means of thermal insulation should be taken care of. Mineral wool material with a thickness of about 10 cm is used as a heater. It is attached to wooden floors using special dowels.
Before starting the installation of the thermal insulation layer of the facade structure, it is necessary to install a profile crate on the load-bearing walls of the building - this will be the frame for the finishing material. Subsequently, mineral-cotton insulation is laid in its niches.
The stage following the installation of the crate and the thermal insulation layer is the fixing of the film, which serves as a membrane that protects against wind and moisture. At the same time, the insulation will be waterproofed from the outside, while moisture evaporation from the walls of the house will be removed without hindrance.
The final step in the arrangement of a wooden ventilated facade is cladding. For decoration, it is also desirable to use wood materials, most often a block house is used. The choice of quality finishes is determined by its cost, performance and appearance. Natural wood will not disturb the harmony of the entire construction site.

The facing material is fixed mechanically (using self-tapping screws, clamps or other means), taking into account the thickness of the ventilation gap.

The main functions of the exterior finish are decorative and protective. Simultaneously with the attractiveness of the exterior of the house, the layers of the facade will be protected from adverse weather conditions.

Moisture evaporating from the wooden load-bearing walls, accumulating from the inside on the surface of the facing material, can be freely removed thanks to the existing ventilation system: air flows moving between the thermal insulation layer and the finish will remove condensate and excess moisture. Thus, the insulation will not get wet and will retain its thermal insulation properties for a long time.

Read also the article about on our website.

You can learn more about the stages of installation of a ventilated wood facade by reading the step-by-step video instructions.

Installation of a hinged wooden facade using planken as an example

What are wooden ventilated facades

Types of structures of facade systems

Ventilated wood facades are divided into two types, different in structure and function.

1. Complete ventilation system with insulation.

The main objectives of such a system are not only to protect the building from weather conditions and maintain conditions of favorable moisture permeability, but also to increase the level of heat-insulating properties of the building. The use of this type of ventilated facade is common in areas with a harsh climate, where the period of cold weather significantly exceeds the duration of the warm season.

2. Lightweight ventilation system.

A feature of this type of wooden ventilated facade is the absence of a thermal insulation layer, and therefore the main function of the structure is to control the level of humidity in the building. The use of a lightweight ventilated system is justified in southern regions with a mild climate, where positive air temperatures prevail, and therefore it makes no sense to insulate the building.

The design of a lightweight ventilated facade provides only for the presence of a thin frame system that does not have extensions, and a finishing material. Various materials can be used as cladding: Block House, siding, lining. Installation of the system is simple, even an inexperienced builder can handle it.

Types of wood finishes for ventilated facades

In addition to the materials mentioned earlier, other types of wood can be used for facade cladding.

Thermowood is lightweight lumber (almost half the weight of untreated wood), characterized by ease of processing, reliability, and practicality. Thermal wood trim enhances the appearance of the building with attractive decor.
A larch board (block house, lining) works best in areas with a high level of humidity, since larch does not rot.
Exotic heavy woods. They are applicable, due to their properties, to strengthen the frame of the facade system and increase the reliability of fasteners. The high price of finishing materials from exotic woods is offset by unique decorative properties.

Installation of a wooden ventilated facade is not so difficult to perform, if you act, observing its stages and taking into account all the nuances. The result of the work will be a comfortable and reliable home that will serve the owners for decades.

A wonderful option for the exterior of a private house is wooden facades. They can be used for a summer residence or a cottage built from cinder blocks, bricks and other materials. Installation of such a facade is easy to do with your own hands. The main recommendations for this will be outlined below.

A neatly arranged wooden facade will make the simplest house beautiful and durable. At the same time, it will become an interesting element of landscape design.

In addition to aesthetic design, a tree is necessary to give the house such useful properties as:

environmental friendliness;
warming;
free internal air circulation;
additional strength;
the ability, if necessary, to replace individual elements and / or the entire cladding;
simple installation.

Many owners of private houses believe that natural wood facades are an expensive pleasure. However, it should be noted that there are different types of material for such work. Therefore, there is always the opportunity to choose an option based on your financial capabilities.

Wooden facade decoration has many options. The most popular and frequently used varieties of such cladding are:

front panels under a tree;
siding;
shingles.

Production takes place as follows: wooden facade panels are glued from solid sheets of wood in several layers. Such manufacturing gives the finished material additional density and strength. The result is multi-layer wooden panels for facades in the shape of a square.

For fastening them to the walls of residential buildings, self-tapping screws and / or building dowels are used.

Front panels under a tree are easily cut. Do-it-yourself wood paneling is done without much effort.

Finishing the facade of the house with wood allows the use of siding. This is a long board made during the cutting of wood. It has the same thickness along its entire length. Installation of such boards is carried out after the preliminary arrangement of the frame.

Sidings are generally very durable. The technology of installing them on the facade makes such a sheathing impervious to cold wind and sedimentary moisture. The siding costs noticeably less than the facade panel.

Shingles are thin boards of small thickness. In appearance, it is very similar to clay tiles. Shingles are produced in different varieties, types and shapes. For facing houses made of wood or brick, it is best to use such a variant of this material as a shingle.

These materials make it possible to make an elegant wooden cottage out of an ordinary brick or block house. This is achieved by imitating natural timber. Wooden facades of houses are stylish, original, reliable.

A stylish look can be given to the house with the help of glass-wooden combined panels.

Their manufacture uses different materials. A building sheathed with such material can breathe. This significantly improves the necessary qualities of the house.

Materials for the manufacture of facade coatings

The manufacture of the above materials is carried out from such types of wood as:

larch;
pine;
thermotree;
mahogany and other exotic species.

Larch is considered the strongest and most durable type of wood. She is not afraid of high temperatures, strong winds and excessive humidity. This is a rare species of wood, so the manufacture of facing materials from it has a high cost.

Pine is very easy to work with.

Walls lined with panels and / or boards from it have high strength. They do not crack during manufacture and/or installation. For fixing pine cladding, you can use ordinary nails.

Thermotree - lightweight lumber. This is a strong and durable wood cladding that gives the house an attractive appearance. Installation of a facade made of such material is not difficult.

Mahogany provides reliable thermal insulation of the building. It should be remembered that such wood, as a rule, has a fairly high specific gravity. This will create an additional load on the foundation. Therefore, such finishing of facades with wood is used with great care.

Significant cost savings will be obtained during the purchase of facing materials directly from the manufacturer, for example, at a sawmill and / or at a factory.

How to choose the type of facade

Finishing the facade under the tree is made in different ways. The result is options such as a ventilated and/or aesthetic façade.

The ventilated facade ensures free air circulation. This avoids the accumulation of condensate in the internal space between the outer cladding and the wall of the building. To do this, it is necessary to leave a gap in the process of arranging the cladding and install a special ventilation system.

Ventilated wooden facades are equipped with a full or lightweight ventilation system. A complete ventilation system is necessary in a region with harsh climatic conditions. Especially if they live in the house permanently.

A properly equipped ventilated facade will protect the house from moisture penetration during periods of heavy rainfall and significantly increase the temperature in the interior, especially during severe frosts.

A light-weight ventilated facade is equipped without intensive thermal insulation.

This option is best used for country houses designed for summer holidays or cottages located in southern regions with a mild climate.

The production of an aesthetic façade requires carved and/or painted (varnished) materials. The lack of reliable ventilation makes it possible to use such a cladding for a foundation, roof, gable, terrace and / or, for example, a Finnish house.

Preparatory work

To make wooden facades, you will need the following types of materials:

Finishing the facade with wood is carried out with such tools as:

construction roulette;
plumb and level;
hacksaw;
Bulgarian;
screwdriver;
electric drill;
hammer;
a set of spatulas;
technical knife.

You will also need overalls and a container for mixing plaster.

General rules for installation and operation

First, you need a well-designed project, which must be shown to a specialist. For it you need to do:

detailed work plan;
description of selected building materials.

Based on the project, an estimate is made. Then the necessary materials are purchased.

Installation of facing materials is carried out only on a specially prepared surface. For this you need:

remove the old coating (if any);
smooth the surface with sandpaper;
apply a layer of plaster.

When the wall is ready, the installation of the frame begins. It is made from metal profiles. Bearing fasteners are installed at the same distance from the corner of the house.

To place the insulation material, it is necessary to step back from the wall surface by 2–2.5 cm. The main profiles are attached every 30–50 cm. The result is a mesh. A facing material will subsequently be attached to it.

You must first install the heater.

For example, foam. It is installed in the gap between the wall and the frame mesh. On top of the insulation, you need to strengthen a special film. It will become a waterproofing and protect the house from the aggressive effects of the environment. To insulate the frame, you can use a special foam.

Finishing the walls with wood panels or siding and fastening the material to the frame is carried out using a screwdriver. In this case, it is necessary to check the correct installation with a level. For aesthetic facades, it is also necessary to use special coatings for fasteners. To protect the finishing material from atmospheric moisture, it is necessary to cover it with varnish and / or paint with the addition of an antiseptic and substances that ensure fire safety.

It is better to choose a coating that emphasizes the natural color of the wood. For processing ventilation, a special "breathable" composition is used. During operation, it is necessary to periodically check the integrity of the cladding and / or insulation. Damaged items must be repaired or replaced immediately.

More about the properties and choice of shingles

A chipped shingle is more often used for roofing. It is made by hand, dividing the tree along the fibers. This gives the chipped shank high strength.

For facade cladding, it is better to purchase a sawn shingle. Thanks to mechanical sawing, elements of various shapes and sizes are obtained. The cost of sawn shingles is noticeably lower.

In order for a wooden facade to be reliably protected from cold and atmospheric moisture, it is advisable to purchase elements of a simple configuration. Complex shapes of boards reduce the protective properties of wood.

Two types of shindel are imported from foreign manufacturers. You can tell them apart by the label. For grade 1 it is blue, and for grade 2 it is red.

The shindel, made by means of radial sawing of wood, has remarkable strength and durability. Tangential sawing slightly reduces strength, but gives the material great aesthetic qualities. The best type of wood for making shingles is larch.

Installation of shingle cladding

On the wall it is necessary to build a crate of timber. The optimal section is 60 by 120 mm. Horizontal guides are mounted every 100 cm. Leveling elements are attached to them. In this case, the step is made 1 or 2 cm less than the length of a separate shingle board.

Laying is done in two layers.

In this case, the overlap must be done in half the length of the spindle. The casing is mounted at a slight angle. It is convenient to adjust it with a bar that is attached to the bottom rail.

Installation is carried out in the direction from right to left and from bottom to top. The initial elements of the cladding are fastened at a height of 25–30 cm. Nails can be used for fastening. Since the installation will be hidden, the upper elements will cover the fasteners.

Advantages of cladding

Planken is a board made of wood with ends processed along the entire length. In width, it can be from 7 to 14 cm. The thickness of the planken is 15 and / or 20 mm. Wall cladding with wood is well suited for arranging ventilated wooden facades.

With hidden mounting, the cladding of the house is carried out with different types of fasteners. The choice depends on the way the edge of the planken is processed. It can be oblique, rectangular or with grooves. Open planken installation is carried out using self-tapping screws. The board with their help is attached to a pre-arranged crate.

The control assembly of the planken with an oblique edge is carried out on the ground.

From the boards it is necessary to assemble a shield, the size of which is determined by the height of the wooden facade. Ventilation gaps between the boards are made from 2 to 10 mm wide.

In places where the shield is attached to the pre-assembled frame, markings must be made. Then “snakes” are attached to the boards, protruding by 1 or 2 cm. The lower edges of the fasteners must be driven into the gap between the bottom board and the vertical beam of the frame. The upper edges of the "snakes" must be attached with self-tapping screws to the bars.

Block house

Facing the facade under a tree is carried out using a block house. This lining, imitating a rounded planed log, is called a block house. At the ends, a thorn-groove connection is arranged. The lower part of the block house is flat. Special cutouts are made on it, i.e. warping grooves. Through them, the lining installed on a flat surface is ventilated.

The standard length of a block house is 3 and 6 m. For facade cladding, it is better to choose AB grade material with a thickness of 40–45 mm, made of pine.

The block house has a total and working width. In the first case, the width of the spike is taken into account. The amount of material required for work is calculated according to the working width, i.e. without taking into account the parameters of the spike. You need to pay attention to this when buying.

A house lined with a block house looks like a natural log cabin. The service life of such material is several decades.

It should be remembered that the low vapor permeability of the block house can cause condensation to form between the wall and the cladding.

To protect the interlock from moisture, and the wood from deformation, it is necessary to renew the paintwork every 1.5–2 years.

Block house installation

First, a vapor barrier is attached to the wall - a membrane or plastic film. Next, a frame is built from a bar treated with special compounds. The distance between the bars is determined by the width of the vapor barrier web.

Heat insulator plates are laid in the free space between the frame elements. For their fastening it is better to use dowels. Further, a sheet of a waterproofing agent is attached to the frame bars. A stapler is used for fastening. The leveling crate is mounted from a bar with a section of 50x50 mm. The block house is attached to the crate from the bottom up. The boards are installed with the groove down. This will provide additional moisture protection. Mounting material (usually self-tapping screws) is placed as close as possible to the spikes. After installing the upper block house, the fastening will be hidden.

This article will consider a ventilated facade. The technology of its device, the main design schemes. We will analyze the important points and main components of the ventilated facade.

Ventilated facade system, main design points

Figure 1 below shows the general layout of a ventilated façade. Fig 1. Let's analyze what structural moments are typical for a wall with a ventilated facade. This must be understood in order to correctly carry out the wall and its outer part (facade). If the wall is a wall with a ventilated façade, then it must be properly constructed accordingly. If a wall is a wall without a ventilated facade, then it must also be structurally correct, so you need to understand the difference. We will talk about two types of ventilated facade:

without insulation, shown in Figure 2;
with insulation, shown in Figure 3.

A wall can be considered as a wall with a ventilated facade without insulation (Figure 2) if:

The wall is made of vapor-permeable materials (with vapor permeability not lower than 0.05 mg/(m*h*Pa)).
There is a ventilation gap between the wall and the cladding (3-4 cm).

Figure 2. A wall can be considered as a wall with an insulated ventilated facade (also known as a ventilated facade with insulation, Figure 3) if:

there is a vapor-permeable insulation in the wall outside (with a vapor permeability of at least 0.1-0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa));
this insulation is closed with a superdiffusion membrane (with a vapor permeability of 800 g / m 2 per day and above);
after the superdiffusion membrane, a ventilation gap was made, 4-6 cm.

Fig 3. For clarity, I will indicate the signs of a wall, in which the wall, although it resembles a ventilated facade, is NOT one. So if:

the wall is insulated from the inside and there is a gap between the insulation and the inner lining;
the wall is insulated from the outside with a vapor-tight insulation (with a vapor permeability lower than that of cotton wool, below 0.1 mg / (m * h * Pa));
the wall is insulated from the outside with a vapor-permeable insulation, and the insulation is covered with a material with a vapor permeability below 800 g / m 2 per day (these materials can be a vapor barrier film, a waterproofing film and a low-quality superdiffusion membrane);
the wall is insulated from the outside with a vapor-permeable insulation, the insulation is closed with a superdiffusion membrane, but there is no ventilation gap of 3-4 cm between the membrane and the cladding;

then the wall is not a wall with a ventilated facade by its design, and, accordingly, should be arranged as a completely different design.

The main layers of the ventilated facade (non-insulated and insulated)

Whether a ventilated facade is insulated or not will depend on its design (number of layers, lathing design, etc.). On a ventilated facade without insulation, let's analyze the main layers, and their features. On a ventilated facade with insulation, we will analyze the features, varieties of such a facade and the main layers. The device (how to perform) both types of ventilated facade will be discussed in a separate article "". The main layers of a ventilated facade without insulation:

Bearing wall made of wall materials.
Crate.
Ventilation gap.
Facing.

The load-bearing wall, ventilation gap and cladding for a ventilated facade without insulation are the same as for an insulated ventilated facade, you can read about them in the next paragraph. The crate for a ventilated facade without insulation will differ from a ventilated facade with insulation, and the design and arrangement of the crate will be described in detail in a separate article Ventilated facade design. We found out above that we will consider a wall with an insulated ventilated facade only a wall insulated from the outside with a vapor-permeable insulation with a superdiffusion membrane over the insulation and a ventilation gap. Let us consider in more detail the components of an insulated ventilated facade. An insulated ventilated facade can be "with a wall" and "without a wall" (it is also a frame). The ventilated facade "with a wall" is shown in Figures 2 and 3. In Figure 2 - a non-insulated ventilated facade "with a wall", in Figure 3 - an insulated ventilated facade "with a wall". A ventilated facade "without a wall" (frame) will be considered in Figure 5.
Fig 4. That is, if the insulated ventilated facade is “with a wall”, then the insulation, membrane and cladding are attached to the load-bearing wall from wall materials. If the insulated ventilated facade is “without a wall”, it is also a frame one, then the insulation layer is the wall, and there is no load-bearing wall made of wall materials in the structure. The issue of arranging a frame wall is disclosed in detail in the article Do-it-yourself frame house. Insulation and wall cladding. In this article, we will not consider a frame wall, but will consider only the design of an insulated ventilated facade “with a wall”, when all layers are attached to a load-bearing wall made of wall materials. Such a design can be provided initially, during the construction of the house, or it can be the result of facade reconstruction (if the finished load-bearing wall of wall materials is insulated or lined already during the operation of the house). From whether the ventilated facade was made immediately during construction or is the result of reconstruction, the design and rules for its construction do not change. Let's move on to the main layers of an insulated ventilated facade, consider how each layer affects the structure as a whole and highlight the points that are important for the correct design. First, I will list the main layers of an insulated ventilated facade, in the order in which they will be considered.

Bearing wall.
Crate.
Insulation.
superdiffusion membrane.
Ventilation gap (vent gap).
Sheathing (facing) of the facade.

Bearing wall Such a wall can be made:

brick,
from blocks (any, aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, shell rock, cinder block, etc.),
from a wooden beam or log, or from a board;
from adobe,
from stone.

The following parameters of the ventilated facade will depend on what the load-bearing wall is made of:

Insulation thickness. The “warmer” (the lower the thermal conductivity) of the wall material, the less thickness of additional thermal insulation will be needed.
Type of crate (wood or metal) and fasteners of the crate (dowels, self-tapping screws, and which ones, more on this later, in the paragraph about the crate).
The design of the crate will depend on how even the load-bearing wall is (how it will be attached to the wall, directly or through a U-shaped suspension, more on that later, in the paragraph about the crate).

Ventilated façade sheathing

I will call the crate a system of elements with which a heater and a membrane are fixed to the wall. The ventilated facade trim is also attached to the crate. The figures above show that the “first” and “second” battens are involved in the design of the ventilated facade. This is the conventional designation of fasteners adopted in this article, Figure 5. The first crate I call the crate that is attached to the wall (regardless of its material, design). I call the second crate the fasteners that are attached to the first crate, and to which the lining is attached (again, the name "second" does not depend on the material and design of the elements).
Fig 5. First crate May be:

from wooden blocks,
from U-shaped suspensions,
from a self-made fastener (cut from the CD 60 profile).

Second crate May be:

from a wooden block;
from profile CD 60.

The choice of the design of the crate (both the first and the second) will depend on the following parameters:

Is the wall insulated or not?
If the wall is insulated, then what is the thickness of the insulation (100 or 50 mm);
The wall is even, or there are irregularities (more than 1 cm per 1 m2).

How the choice of the first and second lathing takes place in each case of the three above, I will describe in the article Device of a ventilated facade. Sheath material. First of all, the material of the crate (wood or metal) is dictated by the chosen design of the crate (and the design depends on the three parameters given above). Once a design has been selected, the availability of that material must be taken into account to determine the material. It depends on the region of construction. In some regions it is easy to buy a normal dried bar for a crate, while in others it is easier to put metal profiles. It should also be borne in mind that when buying a non-dried bar, you need to fix it immediately so that it dries already in a fixed position, otherwise it will lead. Note. When determining the material of the second crate, it is desirable to take into account such a moment. If the cladding is made of something wooden (for example, cladding from OSB or a blockhouse), then it is better to make the second crate from wood. This is not a mandatory requirement, it's just better (the second crate and cladding with the same material are easier to attach to each other and work better.

Insulation for a ventilated facade

For a ventilated facade, a heater with the following parameters is needed:

with a vapor permeability of 0.1-0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa) and above;
with a certain density. For mineral wool 30-50 kg/m 2 . For fiberglass wool - 20 kg / m 2 and above;
the insulation must be in slabs (not rolled).

The thickness of the insulation is determined by calculation and depends on the material of the wall and the construction area. The best choice for insulation is mineral wool or fiberglass wool. These heaters are used in 99% of cases. Note. You can find references to the use of foam or XPS in the design of a ventilated facade. This makes no sense, since these heaters have low vapor permeability (polystyrene about 0.05 and EPPS about 0.003 mg / (m * h * Pa)). Note. The thermal insulation performance of a ventilated facade is affected by those materials (and their thicknesses) that are located BEFORE the ventilation gap (from the inside). Any insulation, of any thickness, located after ventilation gap, for thermal insulation performance does not affect. For example, if OSB is located after the ventilation gap, then there were cases when builders advised to arrange polystyrene or XPS on top of the OSB, and plaster that it would be warmer. This is not true, by installing insulation after the ventilation gap, the facade cannot be additionally insulated. An example of such a design (with useless insulation after the ventilation gap) is shown in Figure 6.
Fig 6.

Super diffusion membrane

As mentioned above, the membrane should be with a vapor permeability of 800 g / m 2 per day and above. The overlap of the membrane is 10-15 cm (both horizontally and vertically). Membrane joints can be fixed with a construction stapler; it is not necessary to glue them.

ventilation gap

The size of the gap is 4-6 cm. This gap can be made: 1. Due to an additional crate (in the case of a wooden crate).
Fig. 7. 2. Due to the U-shaped profile (in the design with a crate made of a metal profile).
Figure 8. Figure 8 shows that the ventilation gap is formed due to the length of the U-shaped suspension, on which cotton wool is put on, as well as due to the second crate from the CD 60 profile. This is the case when both the first and second crates are metal. Figure 9 below shows how the ventilation gap is formed when the first crate is metal and the second is wooden.

OSB. Step 62.5 cm (depending on the size of the OSB sheet - 62.5 - this is if the sheet is 125 cm wide, 60 cm - if the sheet is 120 cm), Figure 13.
Plates LSU, TsSP. Step 60 cm (also depends on the size of the plate sheet), Figure 13.

Fig 13.

Block house. Step 60 cm, sometimes 40 cm (depending on the strength of the blockhouse, i.e. on the thickness of the plank, it happens from about 1.6 to 2.6 cm), Figure 14.

Fig14.

The above dimensions are general guidelines. For greater certainty, before mounting, it is advisable to check empirically how suitable the pre-selected pitch is. To do this, fill the bars with the selected step on the wall of the house or even on the wall of any outbuilding and fix 1-2 elements of the facing material. Try to lean on. It happens that the step can be increased (and at the same time save materials and installation time) or the step needs to be reduced, since the cladding sags.
The type of cladding depends on how it will be attached to the crate.

To the wooden crate: Siding. Can be fixed with a professional (not simple) stapler. This is a pneumatic stapler with large staples, it is also used in the manufacture of furniture. OSB, LSU. With a sheet thickness of up to 12 mm - self-tapping screws 25 mm, with a sheet thickness of more than 12 m - self-tapping screws 35 mm. Blockhouse. With a blockhouse thickness of 2 to 2.5 cm - a thick self-tapping screw. With a blockhouse thickness of 1.6 to 2 cm, a thin self-tapping screw with a narrow head is sunk in or a nail with a thin head is sunk. Self-tapping screws are yellow or galvanized, black is not recommended, as they rust. Fastening can be carried out “on the spike”, so that the screws are not visible, or you can “on the forehead”, then the screws will be visible. And since the screws are visible, it is better to fasten them along the lace (we pull the lace along the line of the location of the screws and then we fasten the screws strictly along the line of the lace). For metal profile: Siding. Self-tapping screws 9 mm long (popularly called "flea") with a drill at the end. OSB, LSU. An ordinary self-tapping screw (without a drill at the end) 25 or 35 mm long, better for metal, but it is also possible for wood. Blockhouse. Self-tapping screw for wood 25 or 35 mm. To a homemade fastener: A beam (section 40x30, 40x20) or a metal profile is inserted into this element at the end, as can be seen in Figures 10 and 11 above. If the profile, then it (profile) is attached to the fastener with a self-tapping screw with a drill (flea) 9 mm long. If a wooden block, then it (the block) is attached to the fastener with a wood self-tapping screw 25 mm long. And already the profile or bar is attached to the cladding as described above, in the paragraphs “to the metal profile” and to the “wooden crate”. Note. I deliberately do not give in this article the step of fastening the cladding to the second crate (through what distance the self-tapping screws are attached). The fact is that the value of this step varies greatly depending on the material of the cladding. And for each type (for OSB, siding, etc.), you can make a separate article with installation details.

On the vapor permeability of a wall with a ventilated facade

I would like to analyze this point in more detail, since there are many different misconceptions about this. In the very name “ventilated facade”, some “promise of vapor permeability” is hidden, as it were (“vent” means ventilated, which means it breathes, etc.). Let's see if that's the case. This is important to understand, since the required ventilation power depends on which walls (facade) in the house. For vapor-permeable walls, this power is less, for vapor-tight walls it is more (on average by 15-20%, it must be determined by calculation for each situation). So, a wall with a ventilated facade is vapor-permeable if all layers of this wall are vapor-permeable. That is, if the wall contains no materials with vapor permeability lower than the values \u200b\u200bgiven by me, I repeat: lower than 0.1-0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa) for insulation and vapor permeability not lower than 0.05 mg / (m *h*Pa) for the remaining layers of the wall. For example, a wall with such a design (from the inside to the outside) drywall, brick, insulation, superdiffusion membrane, ventilation gap, cladding. This is a vapor permeable wall, shown in Figure 15.
Fig. 15. A wall with such a design (from inside to outside) drywall, vapor barrier film, brick, insulation, superdiffusion membrane, ventilation gap, cladding is a vapor-tight wall, shown in Figure 16.
Figure 16. Thus, the presence of vapor barrier material inside the wall or in the thickness of the wall can make a wall with a ventilated facade vapor permeable (if there is no vapor barrier material) and vapor barrier (if such material is available). The very meaning of the ventilated facade does not change. In short, the meaning of a ventilated facade is to ventilate the material in which the dew point is located. This material can be a wall (in the case of a non-insulated ventilated facade), or it can be a heater (in the case of an insulated ventilated facade). Note: In this article, we do not touch on the structure of the frame wall, which, most often, is a ventilated facade. But it should be noted that in the frame wall, the presence of vapor barrier is mandatory, which means that properly executed walls of the frame house are vapor-tight.

Wooden ventilated facade - technical characteristics, advantages. Responsible owners of private houses are concerned not only with economical heating costs, but also with the condition of the facade of their wooden cozy house, so they will certainly be interested in learning about the multilayer construction of a ventilated wooden facade.

The desire to insulate the house may be due to the fact that, despite the good thermal characteristics of the tree, over time the building structure will begin to shrink and the boards or the log house will begin to dry out, and the thermal insulation will be broken, and it will be tested for strength.

If we are talking about such a building material as, then the walls from it are no more than 0.3 meters, while high-quality thermal insulation is possible only with a wall thickness of 0.4 meters and above.

There is a way out of the situation if you use a layer of polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, but only if the owner of the home does not mind having a “lifeless” wooden structure. Material made of polymers, releasing chemical components due to moisture and heat, remains only a decorative design. Work on the reconstruction of wooden houses, as well as the arrangement of the facade, is usually carried out with hinged systems - siding, PVC panels, block house, clinker tiles, and so on.

An integrated approach to cladding

Installation of a wooden ventilated wooden facade allows you to decide:

Warming issue.
The problem of leveling noticeable wall defects.
The task of decorating and creating additional strength.
The problem with soundproofing wall structures. It also simplifies their care, makes it possible to extend the period until the next repair work and use of the house as a whole.

Pie wall with ventilated facade

Such a ventilated "pie" is multi-layered. It consists of a wooden wall surface, an insulating layer, a moisture protection membrane, a ventilation gap and a finishing layer of decorative cladding. Each layer plays a specific role in a ventilated facade for a wooden house, so it is impossible to change such a “stuffing” for something else. The choice of insulation material will depend on the financial capabilities of the home owner, as well as the climatic conditions in the region. In the northern regions, special attention is paid to insulation.

Note: it is believed that it is possible to speak about effective energy saving only when the thickness of the insulating material is from 7 to 10 cm. For this, foam can be used. It will not absorb moisture, and this is an additional plus. Also, the material is characterized by a low level of vapor permeability, and this is attributed to the minuses. In contrast, mineral heaters are famous for the fact that they perfectly absorb noise, but at the same time they are afraid of water.

At the same time, the windproof film will keep the structure from the destructive action of gusts of wind or moisture. A ventilation layer that prevents the formation of condensate can be created by installing a lattice structure. The crate has another useful function - trim details are attached to it. The ventilated facade of a wooden house makes it possible for its inhabitants not to freeze in the winter and not to suffer from the summer heat.

Making "ventilated" insulation

In order to make a ventilated facade with your own hands, follow the following instructions:

Preparatory work should begin with a survey of the roof. After that, it will be possible to make a decision on complex repair work on the walls and roof structure. If you neglect these requirements, you can reduce the effectiveness of facade protection measures to a minimum, since the heat that the walls will not “release” will begin to escape through the roof into the environment.
Decide on the choice of material for thermal insulation and the calculation of thickness. Among the options you can pay attention to the foam, and stone wool, which has a low level of combustion.
Wall preparation - clean the joining seams from the old hemp that has become unusable. If necessary, caulk again the cracks that were formed during the shrinkage and drying of the wood.
You can use a wooden ventilated facade. Sheathing walls with boards is an opportunity to hide prepared log or frame walls under it.
If you will not use thermal insulation boards, the wind protection film membrane can be attached directly to the walls and fixed with self-adhesive mounting tape.
In order to equip the thermal insulation, assembly is required, and then the installation of a wooden one. Firstly, it will serve as a cellular structure in which insulation boards will be mounted, and secondly, it will bear the full weight of the fixed facing material. The wood under the frame will be specially impregnated with antiseptics. A 4 * 4 beam or slats with a width of 3-5 cm should be placed between each other at a slightly smaller width than the width of the thermal insulation boards, and this should be done with the expectation of densely filling the space when laying in a spacer.

Note, that in this case, the rules for shifting the laying elements among themselves should be observed - they should be located with a slight offset (by 50% of the length of the slab) from the top row to the bottom. So you can ensure the uniformity of the insulation. The best solution to the problem is considered to be a heater, the density of which can be from 80 to 150 kg / m 2. It can be both rolled and tiled material (universal size - 100 * 60 cm with a thickness of 5 cm).

Hardware, galvanized and thus protected from corrosion, should be driven in exactly in the middle of the hole in order to provide room for maneuvers within 1 cm when changing material characteristics and smoothing stresses. Closer than 10 cm from the edge, DO NOT screw in!

Note, that in order to save finishing panels, work should begin with large areas (by area). Then you can arrange the boards obtained by cutting multiple segments when finishing architectural forms. In this case, even the amount of waste will be reduced.

The installed ventilated wooden facade needs external additional protection. The boards should be covered with a colorless (if you want to preserve the natural beauty of the wood) or tinted varnish. The easiest way is to paint the facade. If you use painted material in an array, only those areas where the boards were cut should be treated with varnish or paint. An additional advantage of the wooden structure is that it is light in weight and gentle on the load.

Conclusion

Installing prefabricated elements of the facade will help facilitate the sheathing and makes it possible to do this work with your own hands. An important condition is the use of only certified and high-quality materials and compliance with all installation steps. Attempts to intervene in the facade system, the desire to save money, use damaged or defective elements will lead to a violation of the integrity of the mechanism as a whole - it will not be able to perform all its functions in full.

For wooden houses in the climate of our country, an integral requirement in almost every case is additional insulation. And since wood is a natural material that can "breathe", absorb and release moisture, the best solution for insulating structures made of timber and other lumber is a wooden ventilated facade.

Thanks to it, virtually free air circulation will be provided next to the wooden load-bearing walls of the house, and this will avoid rotting and premature failure of the building. In this article, we will consider the features of the construction of a ventilated facade for a wooden house, find out what materials and why should be used.

Installation of a ventilated facade of a wooden house

The device of a ventilated facade system of houses and cottages made of wood

Arrange ventilated facades of wooden houses according to the following rules:

Since wooden residential buildings are often built from a bar with a cross section of 150 * 150 mm, in order to create comfortable conditions in the winter, it will be necessary to additionally insulate the house using mineral wool insulation at least 10 cm thick.
The facade insulation is fixed directly to the surface of the wooden floor by mechanical means (with special dowels).

The device of the frame on the facade of a wooden house

Before installing the heat-insulating layer on a ventilated wooden facade, the surface is upholstered with a wooden (profile) crate, which serves as a frame for the finishing material.
In the niches of the frame, further insulation is laid.

Advice! To ensure the necessary air gap, it is necessary to organize an appropriate removal of the crate by an amount exceeding the thickness of the insulation by at least 4-5 cm.

Moisture coming from the wood, as well as accumulating in the form of condensate on the inner wall of the finishing material, will be freely removed from the system by means of air flows circulating between the thermal insulation and the finish. Thanks to this, the insulation will always be dry and will be able to carry out the task assigned to it as efficiently as possible.

Detailed instructions, as well as a video on the construction of a ventilated facade system with your own hands, are available on our portal in the corresponding thematic section.

Types of wooden ventilated facades

Classification of facade systems depending on the type of construction

Ventilated wood facades are not only practical and efficient, but also environmentally friendly and visually attractive.

Wooden ventilated facades, depending on the complexity of execution and the tasks to be solved, are divided into two types:

Complete ventilated system with insulation pad, the device of which we described in the previous section.
In addition to protecting the house from the weather and maintaining a "breathing" mode of operation, this design significantly increases the thermal insulation properties of the building.
This type of system is usually used when building houses in latitudes with cold and long winters.

Advice!
This type of ventilated wooden facades is very beneficial in terms of saving on energy consumption for heating purposes.

Scheme of the construction of a wooden ventilated facade

Lightweight vented system. The difference between such a system and the previous design is that it does not include a heater.
The system is intended only to control the humidity of the building. The light version is applicable, for the most part, in the southern regions, where there is no need for thorough insulation.
A system is created using a thin frame (without extension) attached to the facade, on which a block house, lining, siding or other material is then attached. The simplicity of the design makes it easy to mount it even with your own hands.

Types of wood for ventilated facades

As a finish for a wooden ventilated facade, in addition to the above materials, the following are often used:

thermotree. Practical timber for decorative finishing of a facade which weight is 30-50% less in comparison with untreated wood.
Board (lining or block house) from larch. It performs well (does not rot) in conditions of high humidity.

Larch facades are among the most durable

exotic woods. Most often, these are heavy rocks that need to be strengthened by the facade frame and fasteners. Attractiveness combined with high cost are an integral attribute of these breeds.

We examined according to what rules and with what materials ventilated facades for a wooden house are created. We hope that our recommendations will allow you to achieve the required level of security and durability of the building, to achieve the required level of comfort inside it.