Super oven for the garage. Garage stoves: choosing the right option

The easiest and most convenient way to heat the garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many car enthusiasts do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable to the received heat due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a wood-burning or mining garage stove is not so comfortable to use, but it will certainly cost less. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

to give off heat well;
was suitable for burning any wood;
fit on the patch allocated for her.

Since simple garage ovens do not really need aesthetics, they are usually welded by home craftsmen from what comes to hand or can be found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary, I found a piece of a large pipe - the stove will be round, sheet metal caught - we will make it rectangular. By and large, it does not matter much, the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of various stoves, but they are all derived from the traditional metal potbelly stove. The body of the heater can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane, this has almost no effect on the efficiency of work. The fact is that a do-it-yourself vertical homemade garage oven takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option suits you best.

There is no grate in traditional potbelly stoves, this stove is a hearth. The chimney is located at the rear and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the lack of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals can crumble, which is inconvenient to perform the procedure. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a cleaning door, and even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front. The design of the furnace contributes to increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last course of gases ends at the front wall, so the pipe is in front. Such a furnace in the garage is very effective, it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

An increase in the exchange surface will additionally increase heat transfer. Craftsmen have long resolved this issue by welding 4-5 mm thick strip steel ribs to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and a description of the production of welding, we will give a few general recommendations:

try to take thicker metal, if possible, then 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall, this joint burns out most often;
external ribs significantly improve heat exchange, they can be welded to any stove;
inside you can install at least one partition, like a two-way furnace;
it is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburned coals will wake up.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest used oil garage stove is well known to everyone. And, although her drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case, we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is not difficult to manufacture, but there are nuances in operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, got into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be defended in order to separate the water.

Important. Any furnace for mining, as well as for wood, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is a pungent smell at the stage of ignition and heating. Otherwise, the use of a miracle furnace, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. She heats pretty well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not as flammable. The principle by which such an oil stove functions is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertically standing pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, the oil-fired oven can also burn diesel fuel, you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Part of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace device is shown in the drawing:

As a housing, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane tank. The range of the rest of the metal is indicated on the drawing, we will not list it again. Instead, let's focus on the method of air supply, it can be of two types:

natural, due to chimney draft;
forced blowing by the fan.

A homemade drip stove from a pipe can also work at low traction if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by the installation of a fan that blows air into the afterburner. Then, looking into the working furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, proven by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to arrange radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during a long stay indoors in winter. The caveat for oil heaters is the same as for wood-burning ones: if there is a high-rise residential building in the immediate vicinity, then you will have to return to the idea of heating with electricity.

Self-installation of the stove in the garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, it is necessary to ensure the operability of the heater, and secondly, to take measures for fire safety. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
turns - no more than 3, while avoiding the installation of 90º elbows, try to use 45 or 30º;
if there is a horizontal section, then its length is not more than 1 m;
it is better to insulate the pipe section on the street with basalt wool to prevent condensation;
fasten the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the furnace.

During the installation of a wood or oil stove with your own hands, observe fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

on the floors under the stove, lay a sheet of metal protruding from the side of the door by 1 m;
combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
passing a wooden floor through the chimney, ensure a gap between it and the pipe of 250 mm, filling it with basalt fiber;
in order to protect the flue from wind blowing, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
natural supply and exhaust ventilation should function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric furnace garage heating is much more economical, and sometimes more efficient. But in the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters, there are some peculiarities that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not present much difficulty for a person who has the necessary skills. In extreme cases, the manufacture can be entrusted to a familiar master by choosing a suitable design.

A simple do-it-yourself wood-burning garage stove can be made from different materials - brick, an old gas cylinder or a metal barrel with thick walls. A wood-burning stove can also be made from a piece of thick-walled pipe.

The main thing, when installing a solid fuel stove in the garage, is to equip the room with good ventilation - forced or natural.

It is easy to make the following solid fuel furnace designs on your own:

- reliable and safe, requires some bricklaying skills;
potbelly stove - easy to make from pipes, cylinders or thick-walled barrels;
long-burning wood-burning stoves - you need a cone firebox (cylinder, pipe) and a welding machine;
waste oil stove - you will need pipes, a drill, welding and a diagram drawing. Be sure to protect the oven from moisture and dampness.

If we compare the designs, then potbelly stoves heat up quickly, but do not hold heat, unlike bricks. Long-burning stoves require strict adherence to the dimensions according to the scheme, and waste oil stoves cannot be installed in garages made of flammable materials.

Option one - reliable and efficient brick

Ordinal bricklaying scheme in a simple garage oven

Brick wood burning is a traditional reliable heating option. Compared to metal boilers and potbelly stoves, brick is safer, but such a furnace heats up longer, and it also cools down.

In order to fold a brick oven on wood with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

refractory brick;
high-fat clay for masonry mortar. It is easier to buy a ready-made refractory mortar for laying refractory bricks, it contains all the necessary additives.

Advice. We check the fat content by rolling a ball out of wet clay. If such a ball thrown on the floor cracks, then the clay is not suitable - low elasticity (fat content). Soak the masonry clay for at least 24 hours before mixing the mortar.

cement M300 and sand for the cement foundation of the stove;
doors for the blower and firebox;
grate material;
asbestos thread for sealing;
chimney damper;
chimney pipe - asbestos or two-layer stainless steel.

Advice. If you make the chimney removable, then in the summer it will be possible to use the hole as additional natural ventilation.

We choose a place for the stove so that the chimney does not come into contact with the roof slab, and the stove does not interfere with movement.

The sequence of laying a simple brick stove for a garage, dimensions 60x60 cm, this is quite enough for a standard garage:

the foundation for a small oven should not be made powerful, 50 cm is enough. If a high oven is planned, then additional reinforcement of the foundation cement screed can be performed.

Note. If there is a concreted cement screed in the garage, then the foundation for the stove can not be poured.

after the cement has hardened, it is necessary to lay 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing material) and you can start laying the furnace;
solid base of the furnace - two solid rows of bricks;
we expose the ash pan door, fixing it with wire on four sides for rigidity. The wire is fixed with masonry mortar;
ordering a brick oven for a garage - the laying order is easier to understand by watching the video material.

During the laying process, we check each row with a water level, it is important to observe the horizontal and vertical. Installation of the grate additionally requires sealing with asbestos thread.

It is possible to upgrade a brick oven of the “rocket” type, in which case the heat transfer is doubled by using the heat of the chimney pipes.

When a brick oven is built with your own hands, you cannot immediately test and melt it. It is necessary that the masonry is completely dry.

Option two - homemade potbelly stove

With a potbelly stove welding machine, proven and simple designs can be made in one day. Thick-walled pipes, barrels and gas cylinders can be used to fire a potbelly stove. A rectangular potbelly stove can be welded from a metal corner and steel sheets (3 mm thick).

Important rules for the location of the potbelly stove in the garage

In order to avoid fire, the following fire safety rules must be observed when installing a homemade potbelly stove:

distance to walls and flammable objects - meter, to a brick wall distance - 0.5 meters;
the walls and ceiling around the stove are additionally sheathed with sheets of metal;
a thick metal sheet is placed under the stove - 10 mm or a cement screed is made - a thickness of 20 cm;
a ventilation device (forced or natural) is required so that no troubles occur during smoke. A gap under the garage door of 5 cm or two exhaust holes under the roof will ensure sufficient natural ventilation of the room.

The distance from the stove to the car must be at least two meters. In close contact with the hot walls of the furnace, there is a possibility of paint damage or fuel fire.

An additional protective casing made of brick walls will not only create a convection flow of warm air and increase heat transfer, but also ensure safety.

Note. Bricks can only be laid over square or rectangular potbelly stoves. A furnace in the form of a cylinder requires a special design of the casing, in the form of side metal ribs. A brick casing for the cylinder will reduce heat transfer and lead to rapid burnout of the walls.

How to make a simple square potbelly stove

For a standard garage, a heater 30 x 30, 50 cm high is enough. The diameter of the pipe for a potbelly stove is not less than 30 cm, the wall thickness is not less than 5 mm. For a chimney, a pipe with a diameter of 12 - 15 cm, a thickness of 3 mm, is suitable. So that the chimney pipe does not quickly freeze over, it is wrapped around the outside with a layer of mineral wool.

Work order:

first we draw the cutting of the details of the stove, we determine all the dimensions;
we cut out the necessary parts from sheet metal to size;
first we connect the walls and the bottom of the furnace by welding, but we only grab it. To be able to set all sides strictly according to the level;
after checking the vertical and horizontal, all joints can be welded with a tee seam;
install the lower partition into the finished case. It is immediately necessary to drill holes in it to remove ash (the step between the holes is one and a half centimeters, from the walls - 5 cm);
the partition is located no lower than 10 cm from the bottom;
in the back wall we cut out a circle for installing the chimney pipe;
firebox and blower doors - distance from the wall - 5 cm;
when attaching the door curtains, you need to take into account that they will sag from the temperature, so we fix them 2 cm higher;
the last to mount the legs of the potbelly stove - a height of at least 15 cm and install the top sheet of the furnace.

In order to get maximum heat transfer, the potbelly stove pipe should not be straight. It is necessary to install pipes with two turns of 30 degrees and bring them out through the garage wall. Then the products of combustion will give all the heat not to the street, but to the room.

The video shows how to make a simple potbelly stove from a metal sheet and corners and from an old gas cylinder.

Option three - waste oil stove

This heater gives maximum heat transfer and practically does not require fuel costs - there is always used oil in the garage. The only disadvantage of this stove is that you need a high chimney, and the products of combustion create soot, which will have to be cleaned often.

Mini rims for cars. We watch the video, to make such an oven is a couple of trifles.

Option four - long-burning wood stove

It is difficult to maintain a positive temperature in the garage, especially in a metal or profile structure, even insulated. Therefore, long-burning stoves are the best solution for a garage, where you just need to keep the temperature above zero so that you don’t warm up the engine every day and don’t spoil the candles and don’t plant the battery.

Such a stove can be made from an old gas cylinder, metal sheets and even bricks. The point is that in such a furnace, air access to the furnace is limited and the firewood does not burn, but smolders, maximizing the efficiency of the fuel.

Laying firewood in such a stove from above, the fuel is pressed as it burns by a metal piston.

From a simple old barrel, you can make a heater for a garage that runs on sawdust, tyrs and construction waste.

Even by making a long-burning stove with your own hands completely correctly, you can not achieve maximum heat and firewood consumption will be large. The reason is incorrect fuel loading. Firewood in the oven cannot be stacked vertically - only horizontal laying.

The video describes the reasons why the fuel in the stove with the top laying of firewood does not burn out completely.

As a conclusion - is it possible to heat a garage with such a wood-burning stove? If you follow important safety rules, then such heaters are an excellent alternative solution for small garages without an electrical connection.

What is important to remember:

high-quality ventilation of the garage is needed to avoid waste during smoke and fire;
it is necessary to protect the metal parts of the heater with a casing made of fire-resistant materials;
the chimney must be removed so that it does not come into contact with the wooden roof rafters;
from the hot walls of the stove to the car must be at least two meters;
water from the chimney must not be allowed to enter the furnace; a protective cap must be installed on the pipe;
choose durable materials for the oven;
a waste oil stove can explode if moisture gets into the furnace;
so that the condensate does not flood the chimney, it is insulated with mineral wool with foil or removable galvanized pipes with internal insulation with mineral wool are installed.

The safest option for any garage is a long-burning brick oven or, protected by a refractory brick casing.

Unfortunately, heating is not provided for garages (although, perhaps, fortunately, given the current tariffs), therefore, you have to heat yourself. Well, any heating is a stove. In this case, it should be small, but effective - you need to quickly move the room from a “minus” to a good “plus”. So when choosing a design, do not forget that the garage oven should ignite quickly and easily. It is also desirable that it could be heated with waste - it is very non-budgetary to buy good firewood, and there is nowhere to store it. Well, one more requirement - the design should be simple so that you can easily do it yourself.

What stoves can be made for a garage

In a cold garage in winter is very unpleasant. That is why heating is required. Garage stoves are usually small steel potbelly stoves. They are made from thick-walled barrels, pipe sections or from gas cylinders. Such garage stoves are simpler in execution, require only minor modifications, because the body, and sometimes the bottom, is already there. Furnaces are also made from sheet metal, but these are options for those who are closely friends with. Brick stoves in garages are not very common - they are still larger, they heat up less, which is not entirely suitable for this case.

The most common potbelly stoves that work on wood, everything that burns is laid in them. Such omnivorousness and fast heating are their main advantages. They also have many shortcomings, and one of them is gluttony, therefore, more economical long-burning stoves have recently begun to be made. Usually the top burning principle is used. They are good because one full bookmark (an oven from a 50 liter propane cylinder) can burn up to 8 hours. All this time it is warm in the garage.

They go separately. There is enough similar fuel in garages, but you need to be careful with mining - heavy metals are contained there and excellent traction is required so that they do not get inside.

Potbelly stoves - proven and simple designs

Potbelly stoves - a hit of the 20s of the last century. Then these stoves competed with brick ones and stood everywhere, even in apartments. Later, with the advent of centralized heating, they lost their relevance, but are used in garages, summer cottages, and for heating utility or outbuildings.

Potbelly stoves from a cylinder, barrel or pipe

The most suitable material for making a potbelly stove for a garage is propane tanks or a thick-walled pipe. Barrels are also suitable, but you need to look for a not very large volume and with a thick wall. In any case, the minimum wall thickness is 2-3 mm, the optimal one is 5 mm. Such a stove will serve for more than one year.

By design, they are vertical and horizontal. It is more convenient to heat a horizontal one with firewood - longer logs fit. It is easier to make it elongated upwards, but the firebox is small in size, you will have to cut firewood finely.

vertical

First, how to make a vertical garage oven from a cylinder or pipe. Divide the selected segment into two unequal parts. Below is a smaller one for collecting ashes, above is the main one for laying firewood. The following is the order of work:

All in all, that's all. It remains to assemble the chimney and you can test a new stove for the garage.

Horizontal

If the body is horizontal, the ash drawer is usually welded on from below. It can be welded to the required dimensions from sheet steel or a suitable sized piece of channel can be used. In the part of the body that will be directed downward, holes are made. It is better to cut something like a grate.

Then in the upper part of the body we make a pipe for the chimney. To do this, you can weld a cut piece from a pipe of a suitable diameter. After a piece of pipe is installed and the seam checked, the metal inside the ring is cut out.

The next step is to install the doors. On the blower, you can cut a piece of metal, attach loops and constipation. Here without any problems. The gaps along the edges do not interfere - air for combustion will flow through them.

There will be no difficulties even if you make a metal door - welding the hinges is not a problem. Only here, in order to be able to at least slightly regulate combustion, the door needs to be made a little larger - so that the perimeter of the opening is closed.

It is problematic to install furnace casting. Suddenly someone wants to have not a steel door, but a cast-iron one. Then it is necessary to weld a frame from a steel corner, attach a casting to it with bolts, and weld this entire structure to the body.

From two barrels

Everyone who used a potbelly stove knows that very hard radiation comes from its body. Often the walls are heated to a red glow. Then next to her is impossible. The problem is solved by an interesting design: two barrels of different diameters are inserted one into the other. The gaps between the walls are covered with pebbles, clay mixed with sand (calcined on fire, covered only when it has cooled down). The inner barrel acts as a firebox, and the outer one is only the body.

This stove will take longer to heat up. It will not immediately begin to give off heat, but it will be more comfortable in the garage and after the fuel burns out, it will warm the room for a couple more hours - giving off the heat accumulated in the tab.

Long burning garage oven

All from the same gas cylinder, you can make a stove for a long-burning garage. There are different designs, but the most proven and stable one is called Bubafonya - after the nickname of the author who invented it and posted it on one of the forums. It was about 5-6 years ago. Since then, many have had this miracle - a simple and original design, high efficiency and the fact that you can lay not only firewood, but also shavings and even sawdust. You can even modify Bubafonya for water heating in the garage, which has been done more than once (a water jacket around the body).

Wood-burning stove in a long-burning garage (diagram and photo)

This homemade wood-burning stove has only one drawback - in order to remove the ashes, you will have to turn the body upside down. True, there are already improvements that eliminate this shortcoming. With a welding machine, you can make such a stove in the garage with your own hands in a few hours - it is very easy to manufacture.

Design

This stove uses the principle of top burning: firewood burns from above, the flame spreads down as the upper layers burn through. This explains the long period of time for combustion - the flame spreads down much more slowly. However, the heating is effective. Already in the first minutes, a sufficient amount of heat begins to be released.

This stove is traditionally round, vertical. The body is an ordinary cylinder with a bottom without a welded cover. The main focus is in the shape and structure of the moving part. It is often called "cargo", but this is only one of the functions. This part also brings air into the combustion zone. She represents a metal circle to which a pipe is welded in the middle. On the back side of the metal circle - from the center to the edges - corners or pieces of a small channel are welded. These are air ducts through which air enters the periphery of the combustion area. There is also a cover with a hole cut out in the center through which the cargo pipe is passed. The smoke pipe is welded almost at the very top of the body. Its horizontal part should not be more than 40 cm, then the pipe rises. The height of the chimney is at least 2-3 meters, but it must be determined by the draft - so that in any weather the smoke does not go into the garage.

Principle of operation

Having filled the body with firewood interspersed with shavings and sawdust, the bookmark is kindled. A lid is put on the pipe and, when the flame flares up, the lid is placed on top. Since the pipe is hollow, air is supplied through it to the combustion zone, which supports combustion.

The diameter of the “load” circle is slightly smaller than the diameter of the body - through this slot, combustion products enter the upper part (in the figure it is signed as a “secondary combustion chamber”). As you know, they are combustible themselves and can give off a large amount of heat. In this zone, with a well-heated furnace, these gases ignite. Combustion air comes from a slot in the cover in the area of the pipe passage. Something can “pull up” in a circle. It's not that important. It is important that the lid should not be made airtight, and also that because of this, the draft in the pipe should be excellent.

The gases ignited in the upper part give no less heat than burning wood. This explains the heating efficiency when using this design. Burnt gases exit into the chimney. As it burns, the load sinks lower and lower until the entire bookmark burns out. After the stove goes out and cools down, you can lay a new batch of firewood and start the process all over again. It is necessary to take out the ashes after several fireboxes - the firewood burns out completely, only a small pile of ash remains from the bookmark and a couple of coals from the lowest firewood.

This oven for the garage is heated with such "wood"

Here is a brief summary of the principle of operation of this unit. As you can see, there is not only upper combustion, but also afterburning of gases. Very simple and really works well.

Manufacturing process

Most likely you have already understood how to do everything, but we will briefly describe the process. First, let's talk about the materials that are needed for this stove. Most often, 50-liter propane tanks are used. A barrel with thick walls and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 300 mm to 600 mm will do. The height of the case in finished form is from 110 cm to 200 cm. In addition, you will need:

These are all the necessary materials. Now actually about what and how to do. We will proceed from the fact that we make a garage stove from a gas cylinder.

That's all. Do-it-yourself garage oven made.

Improvements

Design improvements swing ease of use. The most inconvenient thing is the need to turn over a heavy body in order to shake out the ashes. To get rid of this, an ash pan and traditional grates are made in the lower part. The solution is understandable, but this innovation can lead to the fact that the firewood will burn faster - air will be sucked through the door slots. If there is a lot of oxygen in the lower part, the firewood will burn quickly, and not in smoldering mode, as happens in the original design. The way out is to make the door airtight, with sides and a seal.

Efficient and economical garage oven - dimensional drawing

The second improvement concerns the number and shape of the ribs on the air duct disk. They are made not from corners or a channel, but from steel strips. They are bent and slightly displaced, so that passing the air, as it were, twists. 6-8 pieces are welded instead of the original 4. This alteration gives only pluses - air is more evenly distributed over the combustion zone, firewood burns evenly over the entire area.

Brick ovens give softer heat, but until they heat up themselves, they will not heat the garage. If you are going to heat daily, this option is good. If the garage will be heated periodically, it is better to make a metal stove - it is long and dreary to disperse a frozen brick stove, and it will start heating in two hours.

For those who decide to put a brick oven in the garage, we will lay out the order of a small (relatively) oven with a heating panel and a hob (just in case).

A stove made of solid ceramic bricks (not burnt). Without taking into account the battle, 290 pieces are required. Laying is carried out on a clay mortar, the thickness of the seams is about 0.5-1.8 cm.

A separate foundation is needed for this furnace - the mass will be under 500 kg. Its dimensions are larger than the dimensions of the oven by 15-20 cm.

Furnace lining is desirable (laying fireclay bricks on fireclay mortar). Bricks are undermined for furnace casting. The dimensions of the bed for the grate, stove and doors should be larger than the dimensions of the casting. The gap is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion and also for laying a heat-insulating layer around the doors. This will reduce the formation of cracks next to them (due to different thermal expansion).

Asbestos cord has traditionally been used as a heat-insulating material. If you don't want to deal with asbestos, you can cut mineral wool cardboard into strips. Only it must withstand very high temperatures - up to 1200 ° C (minimum 850 ° C).

Installed in the 6th row, the valve allows you to switch the furnace into winter and summer modes. This is convenient in the off-season, when full power is not required, but it is already damp.

The height of the furnace can be increased by repeating the 14th and 15th rows.

See the video for the process of pre-laying a furnace without mortar (recommended in order to pick up bricks and understand what's what).

Drawings and diagrams

Describe all the designs for a long time. Much can be understood from the drawings.

For a comfortable stay of a person in a room such as a small garage, it is required to maintain a comfortable air temperature in it. This will help to make a stove that you can make yourself. How to weld the stove in the garage yourself and what is required for this will be described in this article.

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Materials for the manufacture of homemade garage ovens can be:

Metal barrels;
Disks from trucks;
Used gas cylinders;
Pieces of sheet steel;
Pipe sections.

What to make a garage oven from, choose only for the car owner, based on the availability of the material and type of fuel. Home-made stoves can work both on wood and on coal, used engine oil or diesel fuel. It should be remembered that self-production of gas furnaces is not recommended and life-threatening.

Making a garage oven from a pipe

Below is a photo of a do-it-yourself stove in a garage from a pipe:

materials

To make a garage stove from a pipe, you will need the following materials:

The main pipe, preferably with a diameter of 500 millimeters or more, 1.5 - 2 meters long;
A pipe for attaching a chimney, 40 centimeters long and 150 - 200 millimeters in diameter;
Metal sheet 4 - 5 mm thick;
A piece of metal 3 centimeters wide, for the side on the furnace lid;
Channel or corners with a face of 50 - 70 millimeters;
Grate for the grate, along the length of the pipe and a width equal to its diameter;
Metal handles (for body and lid) in the amount of 4 pieces.

Tools

A do-it-yourself oven from a 500 mm garage pipe can be assembled using tools and fixtures such as:

Electric welding machine;
A set of files;
Hacksaw for metal;
Hammer or sledgehammer;
Building level;
Roulette;
Marking tool - ruler, core, marker.

Do not forget about personal protective equipment: a welder's mask, leggings, gloves, a protective suit with flame retardant impregnation.

Drawing

Do-it-yourself diagram and drawing of a furnace in a garage from a 500 mm pipe is shown in the photo:

The order of assembly of the furnace unit

After finishing work, you need to install the oven on a solid base, as an option, on four bricks. Next, you should connect the chimney to the pipe and make a trial kindling of the stove. This is necessary in order to make sure that the welds are sealed.

It is worth remembering about safety, any process of burning wood or coal is accompanied by the release of a life-threatening, insidious and imperceptible gas - carbon monoxide, which has no smell. Therefore, the issues of smoke removal should be treated with great responsibility.

Making a garage oven from old rims

This method is quite popular with motorists, since old unnecessary wheel rims can be found at any car depot or in a garage cooperative. The undoubted advantage of such structures is the large thickness of the metal of car rims, such a design will not burn through for a long time and will serve its owner for many years.

Below is a photo of a do-it-yourself oven made of rims in a garage:

materials

Only disks of solid diameters, for example, from trucks or special equipment with large wheels - tractors, graders, etc., will go into work. How to weld a garage oven from rims and what materials are needed for this:

Two or three car rims. It is better to use stamped ones, as they are made of thicker metal. But alloy wheels with an admixture of aluminum cannot be used, such a furnace will simply melt during operation.
Corners or channel for legs, 4 or 6 pieces of 25 - 30 centimeters.
Door hinges.
Bolts and nuts.
Sheets of metal 4 - 5 mm thick.
Two circles, with a diameter of the edge of the disc rim (for the bottom and roof).
A branch pipe with a diameter of 125 - 150 millimeters for the chimney outlet.
Round grate.

Tools

Tools for creating a stove from discs are used almost the same as when creating a stove from a pipe, but there are differences. List of what you need for assembly:

Electric welding machine;
Gas cutter (if available), but you can do without it;
Angle grinder or grinder;
Electric drill;
Hand saw for metal;
Hammer or sledgehammer;
A set of files;
Pliers or pliers;
Marking tool - ruler, core, marker;
Building level;
Roulette;
Paint brush.

Manufacturing schemes

Do-it-yourself oven in the garage made of iron, made of rims, and various options for its design are shown in the diagram:

Assembly order

A vertical stove made of old wheel disks can work on the principle of a buleryan stove or a stove for long-term combustion of wood fuel. Only a homemade version will come out much cheaper for the owner. A do-it-yourself metal oven for a garage is a good savings.

To do this, the furnace space is divided into two chambers, the chimney pipe exits the second, and the combustion itself takes place in the first chamber. You can also make a simple single-chamber stove, like a stove from a pipe or a gas cylinder, but the consumption of burned wood will be much higher.

Video

Video instruction:

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself metal garage oven is an excellent and economical option for car owners. The material for its manufacture can be obtained literally "underfoot". Old cylinders, rims, pipes, iron sheets will be used. But in order for such a furnace to serve the owner for many years, it is necessary to take only high-quality and thick metal.

Any factory or home-made stoves require mandatory compliance with safety regulations when working with them. Be sure to remember that carbon monoxide is a dangerous and invisible killer, so ventilation and sealing of welds when using such devices should be given increased attention. When working on creating your own stove, you must use personal protective equipment, as well as test ignition of the stove only in the open air.

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We have a ready-made solution for this issue - a compact and inexpensive metal stove for heating a wood-fired garage! Agree that it is cheaper to operate a small portable stove in the garage than to heat the garage with electrical appliances. We can offer a choice of small long-burning stoves that can heat a small room.

A garage is not only a place to park a car, but also a workshop, and often a “club of interests”. In frosty weather it is very difficult to start the car engine, sometimes it takes so much time, the trip itself becomes irrelevant.

Doing repairs and just exchanging advice is also better at a comfortable temperature. Therefore, it is clear that space heating is one of the problems that motorists solve. Heating a garage is not an easy issue, since this is not only a condition for comfortable maintenance of equipment, but rather a requirement for a normal, civilized maintenance of a car.

The simplest and fastest solution to this issue is the installation of electric heaters, fully automated and fireproof. But what to do if someone has a garage without electricity or has a desire to save money by burning various dreary things? There is a ready-made solution for a wood-burning garage oven.

As a rule, a wood-burning garage stove requires economy and reliability, ease of use, as well as operation on inexpensive fuel. All these aspects are present in a small metal stove, by the way, you can burn not only firewood in it, but also all the garbage that appears. It is not recommended to heat it with coal or peat, otherwise it will quickly burn out, since the combustion temperature of this type of fuel is too high.

Also, these stoves are indispensable for heating change houses. After all, a change house with a stove is an excellent solution for giving. Since you want to relax not only in summer but also in winter, when all the work is completed. In such a change house it is always warm and cozy.

Many stoves for change houses are equipped with a hob, which makes it easy to heat water and cook food. Especially for our customers, PechiMAKS online store offers a wide range of stoves for small spaces such as garages and change houses. As well as related products.