How to spray tomatoes against late blight with folk remedies. Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to fight with folk remedies and prevention

And the final stage is watering the soil with phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. The product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m. Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should be used only in early spring.

Varieties resistant to infection

Varieties resistant to late blight include: Brother's Gift, De Barao, Vilina, Lyana, Roton.
As you can see, late blight is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the product you like and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.

Many summer residents have tomato bushes in full bloom in their greenhouses. It's time to start developing an action plan in the war against the main enemy of the tomato - late blight.

In RuNet you will find many articles on this issue. As part of the article, I tried to collect all the most useful recommendations from experienced summer residents and popular advice on combating late blight of tomatoes.

Late blight - know the enemy by sight!

Phytophthora of tomatoes is a fungal disease. It appears as irregularly shaped spots with pale green edges and a white mold-like coating on the back of the leaf that appears in rainy weather.

Signs of late blight include the presence of infrequent or continuous stripes of dark brown color on stems and leaf petioles. During the dry period, the affected areas dry out, and in high humidity they rot.

In unfavorable weather, the invasion of late blight on tomatoes begins as early as June. Phytophthora multiplies exponentially at air humidity of 90% and temperature of +20 degrees. She especially loves wet weather with sudden changes in temperature, that is, when a cool night is followed by a warm, cloudy day.

Prevention of late blight on tomatoes

Proper agricultural practices and simple preventive measures help in the fight against this dangerous disease.

To prevent problems with late blight, tomato seeds are soaked for 12 hours in the following solution: 100 grams of juice, a teaspoon of honey, 4 drops of garlic juice and 4 drops of any immunomodulator. You can also disinfect seeds by holding them in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20-25 minutes. To prepare it, a teaspoon without the top of potassium permanganate granules is dissolved in a liter of water.

The variety of tomatoes also plays a big role. Early varieties have a greater chance of escaping late blight, especially in central Russia. Most greenhouse tomatoes ripen 1-2 months later than ground tomatoes. But they have larger fruits.

1-2 weeks after planting, pinch the tops of the plants and allow the stepsons to grow a little. Later. With this approach, 4-5 stepsons are left on each plant from one flower cluster, which results in 4-5 large fruits per bush.

When planting tomato seedlings, holes and plants in pots are spilled with copper sulfate at the rate of a tablespoon per 10 liters of water.

Make sure there is plenty of space between the tomatoes in the row so that they don't touch each other's leaves as they grow. By thickening the plantings, you personally invite late blight to your tomato beds!

Proper agricultural technology involves abundant but infrequent watering and...

How to water tomatoes in a greenhouse so that the air in the room remains as dry as possible, watch the video.

The main preventive measure for late blight is to reduce the humidity in the greenhouse or under the film and increase the temperature - up to +28...30 degrees. To do this, some tomato experts close the greenhouse on a sunny day for 1-2 hours - you can’t do it longer, otherwise you can simply “cook” the plants themselves.

When the first bunch of fruits appear on the tomato plants, the lower leaves are removed from the tomato bushes - they are of no use, and they are the first to be affected by late blight.

In August, flowers or brushes are regularly removed from the upper branches, since they still do not have enough time to ripen. To stimulate fruit ripening, you can water and spray the plants in mid-August with the following composition at the rate of liter per bush: 10 liters of water, a liter of curdled milk and 10-15 drops of iodine.

You will greatly improve the resistance of tomato plants to late blight if you water them with the following solution: 40 drops of iodine, 30 grams or a tablespoon of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. The recommended watering rate is 0.5 liters per bush.

Until now, the advice has concerned agricultural techniques that increase the resistance of tomatoes to late blight. Now we will move on to ways to prevent and treat this dangerous disease.

Treatment of tomato bushes with immunomodulator regulators helps reduce losses from late blight by 1.5-2 times. Such remedies have a double effect. They nourish plants with essential amino acids and vitamins and give their immunity a good boost. This makes tomato plants more stress-resistant and hardy. In this regard, Emistim S, Zircon, and Extra have proven themselves well.

For the prevention of late blight in tomato beds, I usually trust such a well-known drug as Fitosporin. Processing frequency is once every two weeks.

If you do not want to use chemicals, you need to start preventive treatment of tomatoes against late blight 7-10 days after planting the seedlings. That is, as soon as you see that the plants have taken root.

The interval between spraying should be no more than 7-10 days. Repeated applications may be required in case of heavy rainfall.

12 folk recipes for combating tomato late blight

Below you will find 12 reliable and simple folk remedies for combating tomato late blight.

You will also notice that some formulations include copper sulfate. This is an effective remedy for fungal infections, but it has a bad effect on the quality of the fruit in terms of its environmental friendliness. Therefore, it is up to you to decide whether to use such recipes or not.

Unless otherwise indicated, dosages in recipes are based on 10 liters of water.

1. Potassium permanganate solution. The amount of manganese added is determined “by eye” - focus on the color of the resulting solution. It should be pinkish, but not lilac or purple.
2. Potassium permanganate solution + teaspoon.
3. A liter of milk, or whey, or kefir and 10-15 drops of iodine.
4. 10 tablets of trichopolum (sold in any pharmacy) and a bottle of brilliant green.
5. Pass 200 grams of garlic through a meat grinder and leave for 1-2 days in a liter of water. The filtered mixture is diluted to the required 10 liters. In addition, you can also add potassium permanganate to it.
6. 1% potassium chloride solution. Dilute a pharmaceutical 10% solution in a 200 milliliter bottle in 2 liters of water.
7. A tablespoon of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water.
8. Pour 1.5 kilograms of fresh nettle into 10 liters of water and leave for 5-6 days. Both tomato bushes and the soil under them are sprayed with the infusion.
9. A tablespoon of pine concentrate powder.
10. 250-300 grams of wood ash.
11. A teaspoon of boric acid, a rich pink solution of potassium permanganate and 10 drops of iodine.
12. 100 grams of yeast per 10 liters of water.

For processing, I advise you to use a fine spray bottle, which allows you to completely wet the leaves on the tomato bushes.

For better adhesion to tomato leaves, add to all solutions: half a glass of sugar, or a quarter of a piece of grated soap, or 3-5 tablespoons of liquid soap.

Don’t forget about late blight prevention in the off-season!

Many summer residents and gardeners are engaged in growing tomatoes in open ground. This is not surprising, because such a crop gives good yields and eliminates the need to buy valuable vegetables in the store. With proper care, tomatoes will bear several dozen ripe fruits annually.

However, the activity is often accompanied by all sorts of difficulties, including a dangerous disease called late blight. Perhaps such a word does not mean anything to a novice summer resident, but it is unlikely that he has not encountered black or brown spots that cover fruits at the end of summer and cause their death. The problem is indeed very dangerous and, if radical measures are not taken, the continued maintenance of the plant may be in jeopardy.

If you want to organize an effective fight against late blight, but categorically refuse to use highly effective chemicals, you should pay attention to a number of strong folk remedies for late blight on tomatoes. In any case, you should never ignore the progression of the disease, as this can deprive you of the expected harvest and cause a lot of trouble.

Currently, experienced summer residents use a wide variety of folk remedies for late blight. And strangely enough, in some cases they work much more effectively than drugs purchased in specialized stores. Perhaps such success is determined by the wide variety of recipes that alternate with each other. For this reason, the insidious fungal microorganism simply cannot get used to such weapons and quickly leaves the culture. In addition, the main advantage of natural products is their harmlessness and environmental friendliness.

Description of the problem

Late blight on tomatoes in open ground appears due to the activity of a dangerous fungus called Phytophthora infestans. From the name you can understand that the pest’s action is to destroy plant tissue. Today, various nightshade crops are affected by the fungus, but tomatoes are particularly susceptible to it.

Before starting treatment, you need to carefully study everything signs and possible manifestations of the disease. First of all, the tomato leaves will be strewn with small brown spots on the reverse side, which will begin to increase in size as they grow. As a result, the leaves will begin to dry out and fall off. In addition, the shoots become covered with a dark tint, and gray-dark areas appear on the fruits.

The first symptoms of late blight begin to manifest themselves in the second half of summer. This is due to a simple fact: during this period, the fungus begins to actively develop due to suitable climatic conditions.

If the night and day temperatures are very different from each other, heavy dew may appear on the bushes. If the entire summer season is accompanied by prolonged precipitation and a low temperature range, the fungus will begin to attack the crop much earlier. Also, special activity of the microorganism is observed when planting tomatoes on calcareous soils and in places where there is no normal air circulation.

However, if the daytime temperature remains high, the development of late blight is significantly suspended. Hot weather leads to partial and sometimes complete extinction of the colony. Naturally, every novice summer resident, faced with manifestations of late blight, begins to ask questions: “How to deal with late blight on tomatoes, what methods to use, how and when?”

It is important to understand that success in the fight against late blight does not lie in eliminating symptoms, but in early treatment of the crop and preventive measures. The stronger the tomato's immunity, the faster it will resist the fungus.

Prevention of late blight

To prevent the development of a fungal infection on tomatoes, be responsible in following all agrotechnical practices at different stages of plant development. Such actions will become a high-quality prevention of late blight.

How to fight with folk remedies

As mentioned above, in addition to chemical preparations to combat late blight, there is a wide variety of folk remedies that can show very good results. Before deciding on a suitable tool, you need to try all the popular solutions to understand which one will be the most suitable. Different varieties have different susceptibility, due to which the chosen drug must be correct. Also, its variety may be determined by weather conditions and characteristics of the region.

Don’t forget that late blight is a dangerous fungal microorganism that will only leave your garden after a thorough and lengthy struggle. In this case, a creative approach and the desire to conduct all kinds of experiments will not hurt. It is important to understand that remedies that were effective last year may lose their relevance next year.

However, if the established proportions are followed exactly, fighting late blight with home remedies can be very successful.

Use of iodine, boron and dairy products

You can get rid of late blight on tomatoes when grown in open ground using various folk remedies. Among them, time-tested and experience-tested iodine, boron and dairy products. It is known that iodine effectively fights fungus and localizes its further development. Today, different recipes for using this substance are used, so you just have to choose the most suitable one.

A similar product will be used to thoroughly process all leaves and stems of tomatoes.

They also work very effectively means for the prevention of late blight based on fermented kefir and whey, in a proportion of 1 liter per 10 liters of water. Dairy products can be used both in pure form and with added sugar. Using such a solution, you need to thoroughly water the bush, starting from the moment the buds appear.

A good remedy for late blight on tomatoes can be boron, in a volume of 10 grams, which is diluted with 10 liters of hot water. Let the mixture come to room temperature and start spraying the tomatoes with it. To make the result more effective, you can add a little iodine to the solution.

Over the years, our ancestors have used another very effective solution for late blight:

• To 8 liters of boiling water you need to add two liters of sifted wood ash;
• Then you should wait until the temperature of the solution drops to +20 degrees Celsius;
• Next, 10 grams of boric acid and 10 ml of iodine are added to the composition;
• The mixture is infused for half a day;
• The next step is to dilute the composition with water in a ratio of 1:10;

The finished product is used to spray all parts of tomatoes. During the processing process, you need to get rid of all affected parts.

Other means

In the fight against late blight, other folk remedies also work well.

One of them is wood ash. This ingredient contains a large number of various microelements that can have a beneficial effect on tomato tissue. To prepare a suitable preparation for late blight, it is enough to dissolve 5 liters of ash in 10 liters of water and leave for three days, stirring occasionally. Next, you need to dilute the solution to a volume of 30 liters, add soap to it and start spraying.

An important feature: such prevention should be carried out at least three times per season.

In the early stages of development, late blight shows itself well fresh yeast mixture, diluted with 10 liters of water. Using this composition, the entire bush is sprayed.

Fungal infections are very afraid of garlic. If you prepare an infusion of 1.5 cups of crushed shoots and mix them with 10 liters of water, then such an infusion can become a highly effective means for localizing the fungus. For each bush of culture there is about half a liter of tincture.

An interesting way to combat late blight is application of copper microparticles, which can treat late blight and serve as a good preventive measure, repelling the fungus from the plant.

You can also spray the crop infusion based on tinder fungus. This remedy has a positive effect on the immune system of nightshades and is a good defense against infection. The dried mushroom is finely chopped with a knife or meat grinder and poured with a liter of boiling water. After thorough infusion, the solution is filtered through cheesecloth and used for watering.

The first processing measures can be carried out at the stage of ovary formation. Then it remains to process the crop when the first symptoms of late blight appear.

allows you to create a thin protective film on tomato leaves that can prevent the penetration of fungus through the stomata of the plant. To prepare the product, simply dilute 250 grams of salt in a 10-liter bucket of water. Using the resulting solution, all parts of the culture are processed. However, it is important to understand that treatment with saline solution is solely a preventive measure, and not a method of treatment.

It is better to process tomatoes during the period when the ovaries appear.

Conclusion

If you ask yourself the question: “What folk remedies are best to treat tomatoes with late blight?”, it is quite difficult to find a definite answer to it. However, if you are ready to give the crop the time, attention and care it deserves, try trying all of the above techniques, following the recipes and recommendations of experienced gardeners. Periodically alternating such folk remedies or trying to combine them in one complete solution can solve your problem quickly.

Of course, getting rid of late blight on tomatoes is quite difficult, but with a reasonable approach and the use of suitable techniques, you can defeat absolutely any disease and preserve an amazing harvest.

When caring for tomato seedlings, do not forget to look under their leaves: many problems begin in inconspicuous places. If you see areas of unusual color, blisters, changes in thickness, or other differences from regular sheets, try to determine the cause. Sometimes a plant communicates in this way that it lacks some nutrients or does not like the conditions: inappropriate temperature, improper watering.

Many pests hide in secluded corners and slowly eat plants. Attentive attitude towards your pets will allow you to notice diseases in time, including late blight - the most dangerous and common enemy of tomatoes.

How to recognize late blight

First, dark spots with a pale green border appear on the inside of tomato leaves, then these places become covered with a white coating. If dark brown stripes on the stems are added to such signs, you can rest assured that the tomatoes have been attacked by late blight. The further development of the disease will depend on the living conditions of the seedlings: with high humidity, rotting will begin, and with dry content, drying out. Having noticed the first signs, immediately isolate suspicious specimens, even if you are not yet sure of the diagnosis. The infection spreads very quickly, if you hesitate, all the seedlings will become infected.

The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that spreads spores. Favorite conditions of this organism:

1. Humidity 90%.
2. Temperature +20⁰.
3. Still air.
4. Calcareous soil.
5. Sudden temperature changes.

Do you want to get acquainted with this disease and create a lot of trouble for yourself? Take the soil from the bed, generously sprinkled with lime, thicken the tomato seedlings so that no air flow breaks through the greens, cover it with film to maintain high humidity, water it generously and place it on the balcony when the nights are cold and the days are warm. Under such conditions, late blight is guaranteed for your seedlings.

You should not think that if you bought prepared soil, disinfected containers and tools, the infection will have nowhere to come from. Fungal spores spread through the air and settle on the soil and all objects. Often the seeds are already infected with late blight spores. You can create sterile conditions in your apartment, but fungal spores will still enter the room through open windows, on street clothes and shoes.

Prevention is better than cure

You need to start preventive measures from seeds. Before sowing, they must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate: dissolve 1 g of powder in 0.1 liters of water and pickle the grains for 20 minutes. You can use another composition:

• aloe juice – 0.1 kg,
• honey – 1 teaspoon,
• garlic juice – 4 drops,
• immunomodulator – 4 drops.

Soak tomato seeds for 12 hours before sowing.

Don’t forget to treat tools and containers with a disinfectant. If you prepare the soil yourself, be sure to steam it in a double boiler; to be on the safe side, you can do this with purchased soil. Before planting in the greenhouse, put things in order, wash away all dirt, and remove the remains of last year’s tomatoes. Spray all surfaces with EM preparations, for example, “Baikal”. You can fumigate against late blight: take a bucket of smoldering coals, throw in a piece of natural wool fabric and close the doors and vents for a day. You can mix 1 bucket of ash with 2 cups of tobacco dust and sprinkle the ground and all structures.

Advice. If there are a lot of seedlings, and you do not have enough money to purchase high-quality soil for all the seedlings, buy one package. Prepare good compost in advance by watering it with EO preparations. Mix compost with purchased soil, disinfect and place in cups.

Properly care for tomato seedlings, do not create greenhouse conditions with high humidity and still air. It is not necessary too often, the soil should dry out. Tomatoes do not like drafts, but air should not be allowed to stagnate between the stems. Don't plant plants too close to each other, and carefully ventilate your plantings every day. Do not forget about fertilizing; seedlings should not lack any component. With good nutrition, the plants will be strong with good immunity, then late blight will not be scary for them, and the tomatoes will be able to fight the infection themselves.

When you prepare holes for planting tomato seedlings, dilute 1 tbsp. spoon of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water, and pour this mixture into the holes. When marking, take into account the size and density of an adult plant; tomatoes should not touch each other. It is better to grow less than to plant many seedlings in a small greenhouse, which will soon die from late blight. After a few days, you need to treat the tomatoes with the following composition:

• 10 liters of water,
• 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium chloride,
• 40 drops of iodine.

Each bush should require 0.5 liters of prophylactic agent.

Traditional methods

Not everyone wants to use chemicals for edible crops, but it is necessary to fight late blight. For supporters of environmentally friendly vegetable growing, there are many recipes that use only natural ingredients. The compositions need to be sprayed on tomato seedlings for both prevention and treatment.

1. Dissolve 1 bottle of propolis tincture from the pharmacy in 1 liter of water.
2. Mix equal amounts of water and whey.
3. Add 1 liter of skim milk and 15 drops of iodine tincture to 10 liters of water.
4. Cut off the roots of the garlic, and chop the heads and above-ground parts. Infuse 100 g of mass in 1 glass of water for 24 hours. Strain and dissolve 1 g of potassium permanganate in the infusion. Repeat treatment every 2 weeks.
5. Soak 1 kg of rotted straw in 10 liters of water and add a handful of urea. The composition should be infused for 3-4 days, then you need to drain the liquid, strain and spray the tomatoes 2 times a month.
6. Prepare a solution of 10 liters of water and 1 cup of salt. Process once a month.
7. Stir 100 g of yeast in 10 liters of water.
8. Instead of copper sulfate, which accumulates in the ground and ends up in the fruit, it is better to bury a small copper plate under each tomato. Grown bushes can be connected to copper wire.

Advice. There is a folk sign that is suitable for adult plants. As soon as mushrooms appear in the forest, be on your guard. Late blight is also a fungal disease; be especially careful at this time: an outbreak of diseases is expected.

When growing tomato seedlings in a greenhouse, ventilate the plantings more often and water them rarely but abundantly. High temperatures protect against late blight, but the tomatoes themselves do not develop well in such conditions. Use a trick: in the hottest weather, close the doors and vents of the greenhouse for about 2 hours. During this time, the fungus will die, but the plants will survive if you do not forget to open the doors in time and let cool air inside.

Conclusion. Late blight is a dangerous disease, but it is possible to cope with it. It will not be possible to completely protect seedlings from infection: spores of the pathogenic fungus spread through the air and land on all objects: equipment, seeds, soil, seedlings. Before planting, it is advisable to disinfect everything, but you cannot rest on this, any breeze can bring an infection with it. When purchasing seed, give preference to varieties that are early maturing and resistant to fungal diseases.

The main way to combat late blight is prevention. Use traditional methods and natural ingredients, and then you can be sure that these procedures will not affect the quality of the fruit. Don’t forget about fertilizing and proper care of seedlings: strong plants are less likely to get sick. Water the seedlings in the morning so that the soil dries out during the day and does not evaporate much moisture during the cool night time.

Immediately isolate diseased plants from healthy seedlings. Use separate tools and gloves to care for infected plantings. For treatment, use the same drugs as for prevention: potassium permanganate, copper sulfate and folk remedies. If you follow all the rules, late blight will not be able to greatly damage the crop.