Types of masonry walls. Brick wall laying

The use of bricks as an element for building a house is still relevant today, despite the emergence of more and more new solutions. If you use these products, then the construction will turn out to be reliable and durable, which is due to the physical and technical characteristics of the material. Each structural element of the building involves the use of its optimal masonry method. For example, specialists perform masonry technology in 2 bricks. Whereas for the formation of partitions, masonry in one element is excellent.

Outbuildings are erected by private craftsmen using the 1-brick method, even for load-bearing structures. If there is a need to create stronger walls, then one and a half brick technology should be used.

One brick masonry thickness

The dimensions of a standard product are limited to a length of 25 cm, a width of 12 cm and a thickness of 6.5 cm. The width of a brickwork of 1 brick is 25 cm. The thickness is able to ensure the strength and reliability of a garage, barn or summer kitchen. If you use the technique of one and a half elements, you will be able to increase this parameter to 38 centimeters.

Features of the work

Despite the fact that the described masonry is considered a fairly simple process, such work can be considered time-consuming and responsible. If the master does not have theoretical training and a sufficient amount of experience, then this can cause errors, and the consequences will be very negative. One of the consequences of improper masonry may be the occurrence of cracks in the wall. If you will be carried out in 1 brick, then you can use one of several methods, each of which has its own characteristics and nuances.

One commonly used and traditional method involves laying the last and first courses across the main masonry. The latter is carried out alternately and indicates that one row should be located along, while the other - across. This approach ensures the strength of the entire structure. If brickwork in 1 brick is used, then it is possible, if necessary, to strengthen the wall, placing a special one every 5 rows. Such an approach, in addition to strengthening the wall, guarantees adhesion between the products. The master must pay special attention to the seams. At the same time, it is necessary to form walls, excluding the coincidence of vertical seams in rows that are located in the neighborhood. If such a mistake is made, then the formed structure will not have the qualities of reliability and will become dangerous during operation.

When laying bricks in 1 brick, it is important to connect the corners correctly. These elements act as the main ones responsible for the strength of the entire system.

Methods for laying a wall in one brick

If you will be carried out in 1 brick, then you can use one of two methods of forming the wall. The first technology is called clamping, while the other is called clamping. The first technique involves the need to prepare a thicker solution. The second involves the use of a more liquid material.

The "clamp" technique is practiced by more experienced masters. Before the thick mortar is laid on the brick, it is necessary to form a vertical seam by laying the composition on the end of the product. At the time of applying the mixture, it should be held with a trowel, which is removed after it has been possible to form a seam.

If the master will lay bricks in 1 brick, then he can use the "butt" method, which involves the formation of grooves at the locations of vertical seams. Most often, after the completion of the masonry in this way, the base of the wall is processed. This method, when combined with plastering, makes it possible to form a solid structure for which there is no need for a reinforcing mesh. To carry out the work, a solution is prepared, which is pressed by the product against the surface of the previous row. The master presses the brick into the surface, and then taps on it with a trowel handle, achieving final tamping.

Whichever method you choose, you should ensure that the thickness of the horizontal seam is between 8 and 15 mm. As for the vertical, its parameters should vary from 8 to 12 mm. If we take into account these indicators, then 1 meter of masonry will consist of 13 rows. Such standards are true for a material that is made of clay, while sand-lime bricks require slightly different parameters.

Determination of the amount of masonry material in one brick

After the thickness of the masonry of 1 brick has become known to you, you can determine the amount of material needed for the job. For this technique, the calculation is made in cubic meters. In order to form 1 m³ of a wall that will be laid in one brick, 400 units of ceramic material must be used.

Order technology

In order for brick laying in 1 brick to be more durable and reliable, it is necessary to prepare a base, which can be a concrete lining. It could be the foundation itself. At the next stage, ordering is established, which is a device made of rails or corners that have divisions within 77 millimeters. They will determine the width of the horizontally oriented rows. The orders perform the task of fastening the mooring cord, which controls the horizontal and vertical position of the masonry. Angular orders should be reinforced with brackets.

If you are faced with the task of carrying out facing work, then the orders can be installed at the corners of the building in those places where the walls are supposed to adjoin. They are placed around the entire perimeter in increments of 12 meters. A clamp is installed in the vertical seam, which can be made of metal or wood. After a few rows, another should be installed. An order is inserted between the clamps, which should be pressed with a clamp. If bonded masonry is used, then 1 cm should be retreated from the border. If the wall is supposed to be plastered after completion of work, then it is recommended to retreat about 2.5 cm.

What the master needs to know

If brickwork is being carried out in 1 brick, the thickness of which was indicated above, then the master takes a trowel in his right hand, which can be used to level the mortar, pulling up some of the mixture with the edge of the trowel. The latter is pressed against the vertical edge of the previously laid product. When the next brick is used in laying, it should be advanced with the left hand. The product must slide over the prepared solution. To begin with, the mixture is applied with a trowel, and after the brick is pressed tightly, the master taps the tool handle on its surface. In order to prevent sagging of the berth, intermediate beacons should be installed.

The protruding solution must be removed for reuse. the scheme of which will allow you to work without problems, involves shifting the products in the next row by half a brick. It is important to ensure high-quality filling of the seams in order to prevent the wall from being blown through, as well as to improve the thermal insulation qualities.

Final works

Laying in 1 brick, the photo of which is presented in the article, involves jointing after completion of work, and a trowel should be used. This must be done until the solution has completely solidified. It is necessary to press the mixture into the seam by 2 millimeters. In order for the wall to turn out to be even, you should use the building level.

If the brickwork involves electrical heating, then the thickness of the seam should not be less than 12 millimeters, this also applies to the use of reinforced mesh. If you decide to use the "butt" method, then you should prepare a mortar with a cone draft of 13 cm. Laying brick "press" involves the use of a hard mortar with a cone draft of 9 centimeters. Seams in the final stitching can be given a convex, triangular, rounded, concave or rectangular shape.

Brickwork in 1 brick, the scheme of which will allow you to carry out work without errors, involves cleaning the surface of the material with a brush or rag. Next, you can embroider the vertical seams, and then proceed to the horizontal ones. Jointing can be done using special tools purchased from a building materials store, or using alternative solutions. The latter option can be expressed in the application, which is pre-cut in such a way that it is convenient to hold it when embroidering, bending in half. Sometimes thick cords are also used for this purpose, which allow you to get a beautiful decorative seam.

Good luck with your construction work!

Brickwork is always carried out on the basis of certain rules, because the main thing in it is strength and solidity. There are different types of brickwork, and each of them has its own characteristics.

How is masonry cut?

The basic rule of brickwork is a strict adherence to the three rules for cutting. The structure of this material is special because it can carry different loads besides the bending load. Therefore, the basic rules of masonry include the following:

The rows should be parallel to each other so that only the compressive load falls on the brick, while there will be no pressure on the structure at an angle.
The side faces of the bricks in each row should be located so that transverse and longitudinal seams form between them.
All masonry seams are strictly parallel and form a seam between them.

Whatever types of brickwork are used in construction, these rules should definitely be followed.

Dressing: why is it needed?

The dressing plays an important role. Its essence is as follows: the upper brick is placed on two or three lower ones, while leaving a maximum depth of ¼ brick. That is, the upper brick is placed in the masonry so that the load is evenly distributed over the entire masonry over the entire width of the wall. If the rule is violated, the building structure will lose strength and solidity. Ligation is performed on vertical, transverse and longitudinal seams. Depending on what types of brickwork are used, two types of dressing are used:

Chain. It is necessary when alternating bonder and spoon rows. This approach is expedient in the absence of the need for further finishing with facing bricks.
If the walls are finished with cladding, multi-row dressing is used. Its essence is that brickwork consists of several walls half a brick wide, consisting of spoons. First, six rows of spoon masonry are laid, then a bonded row is laid.
If pillars or piers up to one meter high are erected, a three-row dressing is used, where one tychkovy row is replaced by three spoon rows.

Basic rules and masonry components

The process of bricklaying is not easy, in addition, a number of points must be taken into account. Firstly, before laying the material, it is important to insulate, for example, with a layer of roofing material or some other insulating material. First, the brick is laid in the corners, while brackets and orders are attached to them - they will help to make the laying even and straight. The cord as an order is located every 5 meters, it should not sag, otherwise there is a risk of violating the beauty of the structure.

The width of the masonry is the thickness of the wall, which is a multiple of the number of laid half-bricks. That is, the walls can be made in one, two or one and a half bricks. When installing partitions, a thickness of half or a quarter of a brick is possible.

Solid masonry

There are various types of brickwork, each of which has found application in construction. Let's consider each type in more detail.

Solid masonry is a monolithic structure, the width of which is equal to half a brick. They are laid along the outer edge of the wall: in this case, the rows are called versts, and the fillings between them are backfills. With continuous laying, bricks are laid without voids and insulation, that is, the wall consists only of mortar and bricks. Most often, this option is used in the construction of load-bearing walls, enclosing structures, when the insulation is installed outside, or thermal insulation is performed in other ways.

Continuous types of brickwork can be laid in multi-row or single-row dressing of seams, but piers and pillars are laid only in a three-row system. If you are laying structures that will have a light load, it is advisable and economical to use a brick break or a brick-ladder. If a smoke channel is mounted with solid masonry, then baked clay brick is taken, and the seams of the channels are carefully coated with clay. When installing solid masonry, only plastic mortars are used; it is impossible to fill the masonry with a liquid mortar, that is, by spraying.

Lightweight masonry

These types of brickwork are used in the construction of facilities with a small number of floors. The essence of the design is that two walls are erected in it, half a brick wide, which are parallel to each other. Only whole bricks are used. The wall is insulated with heat-insulating materials, while the entire wall cannot be made with lightweight masonry - a bonded row is required on the wall every meter.

Lightweight masonry was invented by builders in order to make the walls thinner, but at the same time to preserve the thermal properties. Thus, walls laid with lightweight masonry, while saving about 40% of material, have reduced water absorption rates, so finishing work can be done much earlier. Often these types of masonry walls are used in the construction of structures with internal insulation. Masonry is carried out using a warm solution, where any kind of porous sand is added. Such a mixture is an opportunity to make the masonry thinner due to its increased heat resistance. Walls can be built on the basis of porous-hollow or hollow, ceramic or lightweight concrete bricks. Lightweight masonry involves jointing along the entire facade of the building. You can protect the area under the window by laying out sections from two rows of masonry.

reinforced masonry

Reinforced masonry is widely used for the construction of structures that carry significant loads. The reinforcement can be located in vertical or horizontal seams, while their thickness must be greater than the thickness of the diameter of the rod. There are various types of brickwork of walls based on reinforcement: Gothic, chain, Dutch. If the reinforcement is transverse, metal meshes of various shapes are used, which should be laid every 3-5 rows of brickwork.

Reinforcing masonry is an opportunity to make it more stable and durable. Especially when structures are erected that carry a large load. The essence of the work boils down to the fact that steel reinforcement is placed in the seams of the masonry. It adheres well to the mortar, so the masonry is monolithic. You can lay the reinforcement along and across. After the rods are fixed in the seams, they will take part of the load on themselves. In addition, thanks to reinforcement, any non-standard solutions can be translated into reality, for example, decorative dressing of seams or unusually shaped columns. As reinforcement, you can use strip steel, periodic profile, wire rod. Fixation in the masonry is carried out by bending the free ends of the reinforcement into hooks.

decorative masonry

To create a certain architectural appearance of the facade, various types of brickwork of facing bricks are used. A feature of this approach is the ability to create an unusual exterior that will stand out from the rest of the buildings. The laying of the front brick is carried out in such ways as direct, decorative and artistic, that is, embossed. Direct masonry involves different ways of tying a brick when the seams are evenly distributed.

Decorative masonry is an opportunity to create a certain pattern on the facade and use bricks of different colors for this. During artistic masonry, the drawing on the facade is created on the basis of the pattern of seams, the use of colored bricks, which are laid in a special way. The advantage of relief masonry is the ability to create a complex pattern, complemented by such architectural details as ledges, recesses, slopes, pilasters.

These varieties are the most modern and beautiful types of brickwork for houses using colored and textured bricks. Masonry is called decorative when the facade is decorated with a pattern due to a thoughtful seam and the use of unusual types of material. A similar effect is used to finish the ends of buildings, piers, under-eaves spaces and other noticeable sections of the walls. If you use glazed bricks, you can make the masonry even more interesting.

Decorative masonry is different types of brickwork. The photo shows that there are plenty of diagrams and drawings on the facade surface. By varying and alternating materials, you can create a bright composition on the surface. At the same time, the walls can be simple, or they can have a relief surface - various technologies and architectural elements are used to obtain it.

Facial masonry

A variety of decorative brickwork is the front one, when silicate or ceramic bricks are used. This is a good way to finish facades, the front part of which is built from selected whole bricks or stones that have regular edges and corners. Such masonry is carried out on the basis of a multi-row dressing system: the facing material is tied with the main wall, while for every five spoon rows of masonry there is one bonder.

Face masonry is widely used for finishing the outer part of walls and interiors on landings, in halls and lobbies. The seams in this type of masonry should be of the same thickness and neatly embroidered. If laying various architectural forms, such as bay windows or columns, shaped stone or solid brick is used.

How is laying done?

The types of brickwork according to the design and technological features are as follows: butt, semi-butt and press. The choice of method depends on the plasticity of the solution, the time of year when construction is underway, and the degree of purity of the material itself.

Back-to-back masonry is used only on the basis of a plastic mortar, when all the seams on the facade are filled with mortar, but not completely. So that the mortar does not squeeze out of the seams, and the front part of the masonry is smooth, when working, you need to step back from the wall by 20 mm.
Clamping masonry is used when using hard mortars, when the seams are completely filled.
Semi-adjoint masonry with undercut mortar is used when it is necessary to fill joints located vertically and horizontally.

Is insulation required?

Very often in construction, effective types of brickwork with insulation are used. Most often it is well masonry, which is popular and cost-effective. It consists of two walls half a brick wide, which are located at a distance of 15 to 34 cm from each other. The walls are connected by horizontal or vertical bridges, while their thickness is equal to a quarter of a brick. The resulting wells can be filled with lightweight concrete or liners made of crushed stone, stones, expanded clay and sand.

Laying insulation requires care. So, be sure to tamp each layer. This masonry technology is an excellent opportunity to protect the insulation from external influences and improve the thermal insulation characteristics of the house. Depending on the thickness, the well masonry will have a different degree of stability and solidity. Very often, higher strength is provided by connecting the layers with diaphragms - they are mounted at the level of windows and floor slabs. Brickwork with insulation can be done in two ways:

Internal insulation - through the installation of air gaps and wells, which are filled with insulation material.
External insulation - for this, an additional layer of insulation is used.

And how was it before?

Types of brickwork in the old days were limited to several options. Moreover, the main differences were in the methods of dressing. They were called by the name of the faces of the brick: the smallest face is a poke, the middle one is a spoon, the largest is the bed. According to the old Russian masonry, it was necessary to alternate spoons and pokes in a horizontal row - it was on the basis of such technology that many buildings and churches were erected. The second popular technique was chain. According to her, the horizontal rows of spoons alternated with the same horizontal row of pokes. True, this technique was not so popular. Already in the 18th century, there were various types of brickwork - one and a half bricks or two, with or without grouting, with chain or multi-row dressing. Many of these methods have survived to this day and are actively used in construction.

By the way, in the old days, the method of obtaining bricks was completely different. Most often it was manual work, when it was necessary to find clay and silt from the bottom of reservoirs, bring them home, add water, straw, hay, then mold the material and leave it to dry. Of course, in this version, the brick has not reached our days, but you can understand how laborious the way to obtain this material was.

Brick in the interior of the kitchen: why not?

Modern kitchen pleases the eye with various decorative elements. Surprisingly, brickwork was reflected not only in the design of facades, but also in the design of this important functional room. Brickwork today is actively used to give the room unusual and individual. Moreover, for decor, a variety of types of brickwork are used in the interior of the kitchen, but most often decorative and embossed.

Most often, brickwork in the kitchen is found in rooms decorated in a modern style. The main rule is not to overdo it with brick, which is considered a powerful and imposing material. It is possible to use masonry for finishing one wall or a kitchen apron, decorating an arch above a doorway or a separate part of the wall where the dining area is located. At the same time, it is very important to follow the rules for arranging the kitchen, where the conditions for any finishing material are not the most favorable.

Brick has been around for more than a century. From it they built houses in different countries and even parts of the world, having come up with many different methods and types of brickwork. And although there are a lot of secrets and features in the technology itself, you can understand everything. First you need to familiarize yourself with the basic provisions and terminology, without which it will be impossible to understand what is at stake. Then, choose the masonry technique and the type of dressing, and then begin the practical development of skills. Do-it-yourself brickwork can be done at least as well as that of professionals. The only thing in which an amateur will definitely concede is in speed. All other parameters, subject to technology, will certainly not be worse.

Basic terms

Let's start with general concepts. Everyone knows exactly what a brick looks like, that it is ceramic, and there is silicate - too. But not many are aware of how the edges of this material are correctly called. And in the description of masonry technology, they are very common.

The largest edge is called pastel", middle - lateral - " spoons", and the smallest -" poke«.

The dimensions of a brick, in principle, are standardized (250 * 125 * 66 mm - single and 250 * 125 * 88 mm - one and a half), but its production technology is such that they can differ significantly from different manufacturers: by 2-3 mm in each of faces, and this is a rather significant difference, given the number of pieces in one row. Therefore, before ordering a batch, it is advisable to measure samples from several firings in order to determine how accurately the technology is maintained.

It is also important to pay attention to the geometry: the edges must be located strictly at 90 °. Otherwise, bursting loads will occur, and the wall may crumble.

Types of masonry

Brick walls can play a different role. In some cases, this is only decoration, in some - partitions, and sometimes - load-bearing walls. Based on the purpose, as well as the required thermal conductivity of the walls, the type of brickwork is selected:

In half a brick. Most often, this is how cladding is done. The thickness of such a wall is 125 mm. To save money, you can put the material on a spoon, then you get a wall a quarter of a brick. When arranging such (in 1/2 or 1/4) in each 4-5 row, a reinforcing mesh is laid. It is necessary to increase the rigidity of the wall and create additional bonds that increase the strength of the masonry.
Into a brick It can already be partitions or two load-bearing walls of small buildings. Wall thickness - 250 mm.
One and a half, two and two and a half bricks are already load-bearing walls.

Dressing and row names

Although a brick wall is made up of many small elements, it should work as a monolith. To provide increased strength, the seams, which are the weak point in this system, are made with an offset. Experts call this technique "dressing". It seems to connect different elements into a single whole, allowing you to redistribute the load on large surfaces.

To ensure the necessary displacement of the seams, the bricks are arranged in different ways:

if they are turned to the front side by the smallest part - a poke, such a row is called tychkovy;
if turned with a long side - a spoon - a row is called spoon.

Moreover, the first in the masonry - on the foundation - lies the bonder, they also finish the masonry. And for him it is necessary to use solid bricks.

Single row dressing

Alternate alternation of such rows gives a very good result. This type of ligation is called single-row or chain ligation. It is practiced on walls that are not planned to be finished: it looks neat. According to such a system, both external and load-bearing walls can be folded.

Wall masonry schemes

Examples of a single-row brick wall in 1.5 and 2 bricks are shown in the photo below.

Single-row dressing in the wall of 1.5 and 2 kripich

In the case of laying a wall in two bricks, two more terms appear. Two outer spoon rows are called versts - outer verst directed to the street inner verst- into the room. They use even, good material, especially carefully choosing those that are directed outward. The space between them is called backlog. Since this element is closed on all sides, you can use a lower grade material, for example, second-hand.

Please note that with this masonry, sawn bricks are also required: halves and three-quarters. Three-quarters in the diagram are crossed out crosswise, halves - with one diagonal stripe. How to make the adjunction of partitions to walls made using this technique is shown in the photo below.

Corner schemes

The laying of the corner in this case is very important. According to the method, the corners are first driven out, a cord is pulled between them, and then the wall is laid according to the scheme. But the corners are put first, on how correctly and evenly they are driven out, it depends on how even the whole building will be. The scheme of laying a corner in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is located below. Masonry begins with the installation of two 3/4 pieces, then the whole ones go.

See the video for the sequence of actions. Very detailed explanation with step by step demonstration of the procedure.

The same system, but in a wall of 1.5 bricks. In addition to whole pieces, 3/4 pieces and quarters are required. Spoon row alternately on the inside, then on the outside verst.

How this scheme is put into practice, see the video.

When laying a corner of 2 bricks in the first row, all the same two three-quarter pieces are required, and another 6 quarters or, as they say, checks. In the second one, one for 3/4 and two checks are already required.

Multi-row dressing

With multi-row dressing, several spoon rows - 6 (for a single brick) or 5 (for a one-and-a-half) - are interspersed with one bonder. The first and last are also placed with pokes. This method is also suitable for laying exterior and interior walls. Only they are usually planned for insulation or decoration.

Wall masonry schemes

So that with such a system, free-standing columns do not turn out, the spoon rows inside are also tied up. To ensure the displacement of the seams, crushed bricks are used.

Do-it-yourself brickwork: multi-row dressing scheme in 2 and 2.5 bricks

The adjunction of walls with this method also occurs with a dressing. This ensures increased strength of the abutment of the walls. Schemes - in the photo below.

Corner masonry patterns

And again about how to lay corners, but with multi-row dressing. If the wall is one brick, even and odd rows (except the first) are the same.

You will see all this in the video.

If the wall is 1.5 bricks, in the first and second rows with bonders, but located either in the outer or in the inner verst. The third and fourth rows are exclusively placed on a spoon.

The fifth row is laid similarly to the third, the sixth - to the fourth. The system then repeats. At times, not a multi-row (with 5 spoon poisons), but a three-row system is required. Then from the fifth row, the clack is repeated.

Mortar for masonry

The brick is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Cement is used not lower than M400, sand is clean, ravine. The proportions for the specified brand are 1 to 4 (for m500 - 1: 5). The batch is done manually or with a concrete mixer, but the order does not change.

First, sand is sifted, a binder is added to it, everything is mixed in a dry state until a uniform color is achieved. Then water is added. Its amount is 0.4-0.6 parts, but they look at the plasticity of the solution. It is more convenient to work with a plastic mortar than with a rigid one, but when laying a hollow brick, in this case the consumption of the mortar greatly increases: it fills the voids. In this case, it is more practical to make a hard solution.

To improve plasticity and more convenient work, lime, clay or liquid detergent are added to the composition (hand soap can be found in large flasks). The number of additives is quite small - no more than 0.1 parts, but the characteristics of the solution improve significantly: it is easier to stack, it does not delaminate for longer.

Immediately it is worth warning: do not knead large volumes at once. The batch must be used within two hours. And in the last half hour, it can be difficult to work with him: the separation of water may begin, or it may begin to seize. It depends on the weather conditions and the quality of the cement, on the thoroughness of the kneading. If do-it-yourself bricklaying is your first experience in this area, it will turn out slowly. Therefore, it is better to make portions of the solution small.

Approximate solution consumption

Often for beginners planning to lay bricks on their own, the question arises: at what temperature can you work. Without special additives, it is possible to work at positive temperatures. In the best case - not lower than + 7 ° C. This is the threshold at which the cement normally sets. At lower temperatures, the hardening process practically stops, as a result, the mortar may crumble, and the strength of the wall will be low. To lower the bar, there are special antifreeze additives, but the cost of such a solution is already high: the price of these additives is considerable.

Before use, the solution is stirred, as heavy particles can sink down, and water can rise to the top. The mixed solution is placed in buckets and transferred to the masonry site, where it is distributed. Immediately put a strip of mortar - a bed - for one row. Under the tychkovy row, the width of the bed is 200-220 mm, for the spoon row - 80-100 mm. If the seam is completely filled, about 10-15 mm recede from the edge, the mortar height is 20-25 mm, which during laying provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel.

There are three techniques for doing brickwork. On a hard low-plastic solution, the “press” technique is used. In this case, the seams are completely filled. If the solution is plastic, use the "butt" technique.

Brickwork technique "butt"

As already mentioned, this method of laying bricks is used with plastic mortar. It should be mobile, easy to apply and move. This is achieved by adding additives. You can spread the solution immediately on the entire surface of the wall: additives allow you to extend the time before setting begins.

The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, an indent of about 15-20 mm remains from the edge. Such an indentation avoids squeezing the solution onto the front surface, but at the same time, the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, therefore, in regions with seismic activity, the laying of verst rows (outer and inner) by this method is prohibited.

When laying a spoon row, they take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Bringing to the already laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm, they begin to rake up the solution with an edge (poke). When docking, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a little (sagging), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to a wall.

Brick laying technique "back to back"

With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. Therefore, this method is also called "wasteshovka". They are filled when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not yet very well developed, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce strength and thermal insulation characteristics.

When laying the bonder row, everything is exactly the same, only the solution is raked with a spoon edge. The backing is laid, like the tying rows, and then pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all the stones are on the same level. This is done using the building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.

Technique "squeeze"

When working with hollow bricks, as a rule, hard mortars are used. In this case, a brick is used with the “press” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.

The bed is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. They take a brick with their left hand and press it against the trowel, while pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with a brick, achieving the required thickness of the seam (10-12 mm).

Technique "end-to-end"

Excess solution is picked up with a trowel. Having laid several fragments, they take the level, checking the horizontality of the row, by tapping the handle of the trowel, straightening the position. The solution squeezed out is selected. It turns out dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.

Butt with undercut

The average performance method - butt with cutting seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying, pressing it, and the laying technique is close-fitting: they raked the mortar with a brick, put it down, pressed it down, and removed the excess. If the wall is subsequently not planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take the jointing - a special tool and give the seams the required shape (convex, concave, flat).

As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To make it more convenient to work, the solution is also made with "intermediate" plasticity. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little tighter than when laying back to back.

DIY brickwork: tools, order and features

Now, how to lay a brick with your own hands, you have an idea, you need to talk about the procedure as well as some technical nuances.

Let's start with the tool. You will need:

mason's trowel - apply and level the mortar on the bricks;
concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
mortar shovel - for kneading and periodic mixing;
two or three buckets for the solution;
plumb - check the verticality of walls and corners,
building level - to check the horizontal laying of the row;
mooring cord - for beating rows;
jointing (for forming seams);
hammer-pick for beating undersized bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks - 1/4);
the rule is a metal or wooden flat bar to check the plane of the wall.

Next, we talk about the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot dry weather. Then it will “pull” less moisture from the solution. If there is not enough moisture, the cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.

Second: the corners are driven out first. First two first. They are connected with 2-3 rows of bricks according to the chosen masonry pattern. Then the third corner is expelled. The second and third are also connected by several full rows. After the fourth corner is placed and the perimeter closes. This is how walls should be erected, bypassing them around the perimeter, and the walls will not be kicked out one by one. This is one of the most common mistakes.

Third, there are two row control technologies. The first is that nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which fishing line laces are tied. It must be stretched so that it marks the upper edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and, if necessary, inner) surface of the wall.

The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat bar or corner, on which marks are applied every 77 mm - risks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets that are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.

There is another way - a bricklayer's corner. It has a slot on one side into which the mooring is inserted. "Sits down" on the corner on the solution.

The disadvantage of this method is the same as just a nail in the seam: the height of the row must be controlled "manually" when deriving corners. With a lack of experience (and where to get it if brickwork is being done for the first time with your own hands), this is difficult. Having (having done it yourself) ordering is easier.

Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you saw, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks - 1/4 of the part. So that the work does not slow down, before starting the masonry, it is required to prepare them. This is done with a pickaxe. When preparing, high accuracy in size is required, otherwise the dressing will fail. To make it easier to control the length, marks of the appropriate length are made on the handle. Having attached the pen to the brick, marks are made on it on both sides of the spoon. Then, having applied the pick blade to the mark, they beat on the reverse side with a hammer, making notches. Having made notches on both spoons, the picks break the brick with a strong blow.

Foreword

Necessary tools and materials

Concrete mixerBituminous masticBucketWaterExpanded clayBrickKiyankaShovelMaster OKplumb lineSandStitchingLevelinsulationCement

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Content

Brick laying walls requires sufficient experience and skill. Therefore, before proceeding with the construction of the brick walls of the house, it is necessary to practice on less significant objects. For example, do-it-yourself brick walls of a garage or other agricultural building on your site. But in any case, it is possible to start laying brick walls only if the foundation of the building is waterproofed.

Brickwork: the thickness of the walls of a brick house

The most common material for making stone exterior walls is brick. Centuries of experience and constant selection have helped to create its optimal size and shape.

A brick of a normal format, more often called a single one, has overall dimensions of 250 x 120 x 65 mm. There are also one and a half (250 x 120 x 88 mm) and double (250 x 20 x 140 mm) bricks. Permissible deviations from the nominal dimensions of the brick should not exceed: in length ± 4 mm, in width ± 3 mm and in thickness + 3/-2 mm.

Quite often, when laying an external brick wall, it becomes necessary to use not a whole brick, but its parts, which have their own names: three-quarters (180 mm), half (120 mm) and a quarter (60-65 mm). According to regulatory documents, the number of incomplete brick parts in the purchased batch of goods should not be more than 5%. Sometimes on the building materials market you can find bricks of non-standard sizes, for example, "euro" (250 x 85 x 65 mm) or "modular" (288 x 138 x 65 mm). This fact must be taken into account if you plan to use imported and domestic bricks for brickwork of external walls. In addition, the thickness of domestic reinforced concrete elements (lintels, floor slabs) is a multiple of the height of domestic bricks.

The faces of a brick have the following names:

Bed- located parallel to the base of the masonry (for all standard bricks, its size is 250 x 120 mm).
spoon- the average area face, located perpendicular to the bed (for a single brick, it is 250 x 65 mm).
Poke- the smallest face, located perpendicular to the bed (for a single brick - 120 x 65 mm).

The thickness of the walls in brickwork is measured in fractions of half or the full length of the material used. Thus, the thickness of the wall when laying bricks can be half a brick (120 mm), one brick (250 mm), one and a half bricks (380 mm), etc.

For the construction of external brick walls, bricks of the M75, M100, Ml25, Ml50, M200, M250 and M300 grades are produced. The numbers indicate the tensile strength (kg / cm2) and this allows you to select the material based on the calculation of the load on the walls. Another characteristic for a brick is its frost resistance, that is, the number of alternating freeze-thaw cycles that a brick can withstand while in water for more than a day. Bricks are produced with frost resistance F15, F25, F35 and F50. In temperate zones, the F35 brand is used, and for warm regions, as a rule, F15 is enough.

Number of bricks and mortar for masonry walls

In order to roughly estimate the required amount of material for laying a brick wall with your own hands, you can use the following technique. First, we calculate the perimeter of your house, then multiply it by the average height of the house, and we get the area of \u200b\u200bits external walls. Using the table below, you can determine the amount of brick required and the volume of mortar for laying it (per 1 m2), depending on the thickness of the wall, as shown in the table.

Masonry type	brick size	Including mortar joints, pcs.	The volume of mortar for masonry, m3
half a brick	single-half-double	51-39-26	0,02
in one brick	single-half-double	102-78-52	0,05
one and a half bricks	single-half-double	153-117-78	0,08
in two bricks	single-half-double	204-156-104	0,11
two and a half bricks	single-half-double	255-195-130	0,14

Despite the fact that the brick has good weather resistance, it is desirable to store it (especially silicate brick) under a canopy, which excludes direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation. To do this, the brick is stacked in stacks with ventilation gaps and passages between the stacks. When arranging the storage place, it must be taken into account that the conditions for storing bricks suggest that 700 bricks can be stored per 1 m2 of usable storage area with a maximum stack height of up to 1.5 m. If bricks are laid in packages (180-200 pieces in a package) in two tiers with a stack height of not more than 1.8 m, then the specific capacity of the site will be approximately 700-750 pieces / m2. Thus, taking into account the ventilation gaps and the utilization factor of the warehouse space, it is necessary to equip an area of 35-40 m2 to store several tens of thousands of bricks.

How to make a brick wall with your own hands: construction technology

Before you make a brick wall with your own hands, you need to arrange a horizontal waterproofing between the foundation and the wall. If you decide to independently lay the exterior walls of brick, but have little experience as a bricklayer, it is better to lay out the first row of bricks without mortar, but at intervals (about 10 mm) for him. This will help you lay out the bricks correctly (especially at the corners) using the minimum number of undersized pieces.

When arranging brick walls, laying with mortar should start from the corners. This is the most difficult moment. Each brick is laid on a level in three planes, and then the angle is also checked by a plumb line. Until the mortar has finally set, the bricks can be knocked in the right direction. After two corners of one wall are laid out, a nail with a cord tied to it is fixed in the seam under the upper brick.

The cord is stretched and fixed in the same way on the other end of the wall. During the laying process, this device will help to control the horizontality of the row being laid out, that is, it will allow you to monitor the height of the placement of each brick and ensure that it does not protrude beyond the edge of the wall and does not sink.

According to the technology of erecting brick walls, in addition, the horizontalness of the masonry is checked every 2-3 rows using a level and, if necessary, it is corrected (reduce or increase the thickness of the seam). According to the requirements for the quality of construction work with a clean masonry wall, its deviation from the vertical by no more than 12 mm is allowed within the height of the floor.

The technology of masonry walls provides for the layout of the brick in such a way that its chipped edge looks inward, where it is less noticeable. Brick laying of the walls of the house can be carried out either by applying the mortar to the bricks, or laying them on the mortar so that under the weight of the brick a seam of the desired thickness is formed.

In this case, it should be evenly distributed under the brick. When installing a brick, light tapping with a trowel handle is allowed. So that the excess mortar protruding from the seams of the masonry does not stain the wall, it is removed with the side of the trowel, which is held at an angle. As experience is gained, the amount of solution applied will be optimized and the amount of excess removed will be reduced.

If the building has internal walls or load-bearing partitions, then bricks are laid in the appropriate places along the foundation, which serve as the basis for laying the intersection of the walls. Later, when laying brick walls, the adjoining wall or partition is attached to the previously erected external one by means of a vertical “strobe” made in the form of a niche, or with the help of pre-fixed connecting elements (steel profiled rods, channels, etc.).

For cutting bricks, a pickaxe hammer or a special cutter is used. When working with a hammer-pick, several sharp blows are applied with a sharp end on both sides of the cut line. Finally, the brick is chipped off by blows of the blunt end of the hammer. Brick cutting is performed with the sharp end of a pick.

Along the edges of window and door openings for the installation of boxes, 2-3 wooden plugs 1/2 brick in size are laid on each side. The corks are wrapped with one layer of roofing material, insulation is also made from roofing material for the box.

Above the openings in the outer masonry, a corner with a section of 100x100 mm is usually mounted. It is advisable to install bar reinforced concrete lintels, which you can buy or make yourself. They can also be molded locally - right on the wall. Lintels are laid in the walls in such a way that the length of the support is at least 250 mm.

In the event that work needs to be interrupted for a long time, the last row of masonry should be covered with film or roofing material and fixed with bricks. As a result, the wall will be protected from precipitation.

Vertical and horizontal seams are usually made with a thickness of about 10 mm (maximum thickness - 15 mm, minimum - 8 mm). If the wall will not be plastered, insulated or lined with decorative material in the future, the seams must be carefully filled with mortar. After masonry, until the mortar has dried, such seams should be cut (embroidered) - to give them a finished look. For this, jointing is used - a tool made of stainless steel or covered with plastic, hard wood, since pure iron can leave dark marks. The depth of cutting of seams should be no more than 3 mm. If the project provides for wall decoration, it is allowed to lay on an incomplete seam, that is, the seams can be unfilled to a depth of 5-10 mm.

The strength of the wall is ensured by bandaging the seams. There are two ligation systems - single-row (chain) and multi-row. With a single-row system, each row of bricks is tied up, that is, each row of bricks (the brick is placed along the wall being erected), the row is overlapped by the bonder (the brick is located across the wall).

Multi-row ligation, and it is usually performed after three to six spoon rows, is much simpler, since it requires fewer incomplete brick parts. However, as calculations show, the strength of brickwork, made with dressing of vertical joints in each row or after three to six rows, is almost the same. Strength increases significantly if, regardless of the masonry system, in horizontal joints, through three to five rows, lay a reinforcing mesh with cells 6-12 cm wide from wire with a diameter of 3-6 mm.

The construction of the outer wall of a brick house

As you can see in the photo, lightweight brick walls can be conditionally divided into two groups. The first includes structures consisting of two parallel brick walls, between which an air gap remains or thermal insulation material is laid. At the same time, the insulation is protected from external influences, however, the structural strength of the wall is somewhat weakened.

The second group includes structures of external walls made of bricks, consisting of one wall, insulated (outside or inside) with thermal insulation boards. In this case, the thickness of the masonry can be minimal based only on the strength requirements (at least 250 mm in all climatic regions), and thermal protection is provided by the thickness and quality of the insulation. When the insulation layer is located indoors using the technology of erecting brick walls, the house is protected from water vapor by vapor barrier, when placed outside, it is protected from atmospheric influences by a screen or plaster.

Since its invention, brick has been one of the most versatile and sought-after building materials known to mankind.

It is from brick that most of the buildings are built, since it has a huge number of practical qualities.

To properly perform bricklaying, you must have a number of theoretical knowledge and practical skills.

In order to provide the building with a certain level of strength and solidity, it is necessary to follow a number of brickwork rules.

Basic rules for brickwork

Speaking of decorative masonry, there are several levels of complexity in laying out a brick wall. This:

1. 1. - simple - when complicated masonry elements occupy no more than 10% of the total front surface of the wall;
    - masonry of medium complexity - when complicated elements occupy no more than 20% of the total front surface of the wall;
    - complex - when complicated elements make up no more than 40% of the total front surface of the outer wall;
    - especially complex, in which the complicated elements of the common front wall occupy an area greater than 40%.

Also, in order to add an unusual note to the architectural design of the building, a colored mortar is used, the color of which contrasts with the color of the brick from which the masonry is made. It is best if the scheme is prepared in advance.

Ready-made colored solutions can be purchased at a hardware store, or you can prepare such a solution yourself.

To obtain a red tint, red lead powder is used. To obtain a solution with a brown tint, red lead powder along with soot should be added to its dry mixture. For a white tint, use white cement with white quartz sand as an additive. To get a black color, soot must be added to the solution.