The Marfino estate near Moscow, located in the Mytishchensky district, has long attracted us with its extraordinary pseudo-Gothic architecture. Unfortunately, for a long time lovers of antiquity penetrated here by semi-legal means (for example, through a fence or on the ice of the manor pond) - since the middle of the last century, the Marfinsky Central Military Clinical Sanatorium with a strict security regime has been located in the buildings of the estate.
The pages of various sites dedicated to architectural tourism are still full of various stories about where to find the treasured hole in the fence to enter the estate. We explain to curious tourists that now there is no need for this! Video cameras have long been installed in the most popular places for illegal immigrants, and vigilant guards quickly deport violators of the regime.
As it turned out, you can get to Marfino quite legally and absolutely free of charge, for this you need to contact the commandant's office and get a coveted pass ( don't forget to take your passport) on the territory of the estate-sanatorium. Since 2017, the passport must be presented at the checkpoint of the sanatorium.
The history of the Marfinskaya estate began in 1698, when the associate of Peter I, the “tsar's uncle” Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn (1651 - 1714), acquired the village of Schibrino near Moscow. He named the new estate in honor of his wife - Marfino. Subsequently, the estate passed to the Saltykovs, and then to the Orlovs, among whom was the owner of the Semenovskoye-Otrada estate, the youngest of the brothers, Vladimir Grigoryevich Orlov (1743 - 1831). V.G. Orlov bequeathed Marfino to his daughter Sofya Vladimirovna Orlova (Panina) (1774-1844). It was under Sofia Vladimirovna that the Marfino estate was finally formed - many of its buildings were reconstructed with the participation of the architect Mikhail Dormidontovich Bykovsky (1801 - 1885).
After the revolution, the Marfino estate was nationalized, and since 1944 it has housed a military sanatorium, where Kvaksha's team visited on a snowy winter day.
P.S. A trip to the Marfino estate is an excellent weekend itinerary! How to get to the Marfino estate? By train from Savelovsky railway station to Katuar station, from the station by bus number 37. Or by bus number 519, which departs from the Altufyevo metro station. By car - along Dmitrovskoye highway, up to the turn to Marfino.
Marfino is located near the 39th km. Dmitrovsky highway (Moscow region).
In Marfino there is an old manor. The complex of manor buildings includes a two-story main house in pseudo-Gothic style (1760-80s, reconstruction of the 1830s), outbuildings - kennels, a horse yard, a carriage house (late 18th century), the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin (1701 -1707), Peter and Paul Church (1770s).
A large park with gazebos and ponds has been preserved. A two-arch pseudo-Gothic bridge is thrown over one of the ponds. A white-stone staircase with figures of griffins descends from the main manor house to the pond.
In 1933, the Marfinsky Central Military Clinical Sanatorium was located here.
Many feature films were filmed in the estate - "The Nest of Nobles", "A Glass of Water", "A Woman Who Sings", "Among Strangers, a Stranger Among Her", "Operetta Invites You", "The Master and Margarita" (Yury Kara), "Crusader" and many others.
nearest railway Catoire station(a few kilometers from Marfino) got its name from the name of a Russian merchant of the first guild of French origin, Lev Ivanovich Catuar. At the beginning of the 20th century, he owned ceramic factories and donated his funds to the construction of the station. Catuar took an active part in the design and construction of the Savelovskaya branch, for which the station was named after him. The traffic was opened in 1900, and the station appeared a year later.
History reference
It was first mentioned in 1585 under the name of Marfino, Shchibrino, too. The estate originally belonged to the Golovin family, in 1650 it passed to Semyon Zaborovsky, then to the Golitsyns.
From 1728 to 1813, the estate was owned by the Saltykovs, then, until 1831, by V. G. Orlov, and then, until 1917, by the Panins.
How to get there
You can get to Marfino from Moscow:
By car along Dmitrovskoe shosse up to 39 km., Then, turning at the sign and drive another 3 kilometers.
You can get to Marfino by train from the Savelovsky railway station to the Catoire station, then by bus number 37.
Museums
| Name | Address, contacts | Description | Image |
The old noble estate of Marfino is located 20 km from Moscow. A chic park, picturesque lakes, a magnificent Gothic palace, griffins on the pier... This is a small fraction of what can be seen on the territory of the former estate today. In addition, Marfino is located close to Moscow, so you don’t have to perform feats and travel hundreds of kilometers.
A military sanatorium is now located on the territory of the Marfino estate, so the entrance for independent travelers is closed there. Of course, there are options to get to the territory of Marfino: for example, to find a hole in the fence, to persuade the guards in different ways, but I decided to choose a civilized path and went to see Marfino with an excursion group.
In advance, the organizers asked us to provide passport data for a group application - this is understandable, because this is the territory of the military department.
Early Saturday morning we went to the estate. In Marfino, we had to be strictly by 12 o'clock (the military - not Khukhr-Mukhr).
Our car arrived at the gate one of the first.
Gate to the sanatorium Marfino
I managed to wander around a little, take pictures and admire the view of the palace from behind the lake. It's amazing how this beauty has been preserved! But looking at the emergency condition of the old bridge, the thought flashed through that we could soon lose it.
View of the estate Marfino
figured bridge
When everyone was assembled, we went to the main entrance to the sanatorium, where there was a pre-ordered group pass. From the sanatorium gate, where our cars were parked, it takes about 7 minutes to go to the main entrance.
The first thing we saw when we dived through the sanatorium gates was a view of the mirror-like surface of the pond and the bridge. A small boat, drawn on the pond, complemented this serene picture. The whole group, who were here for the first time, gasped at the beauty.
Old bridge in Marfino
Having crossed the lake on a hanging bridge, we saw two churches that previously belonged to the estate, but we decided to stop next to them on the way back. Run, run, soon the clock will strike 12 (and the pass may turn into a pumpkin).
The path to the manor buildings passed through a picturesque area: meadows overgrown with dandelions, hills. By the way, the developers managed to leave their legacy here too - along the way we also met several brand new residential buildings.
There were no problems at the entrance. Although also like the young couple who followed literally behind us. The guys answered the formidable question “where are you going” “we just take a walk”, and they were let in without any (so maybe you will be lucky).
The modern buildings of the sanatorium look very Soviet, and I must say they spoil the ensemble. So, if we recall Arkhangelsk, where the sanatorium buildings skillfully fit into the general estate ensemble. It didn't happen here.
Modern buildings of the sanatorium Marfino
We walked quickly into the shade to listen to the tour, passing by two symmetrically built classical buildings. Which, according to the guide, turned out to be kennels. Yes, the dogs have a good life here.
Kennels in Marfino
So let's go back in time for a bit.
History of the estate Marfino
Why this estate is now called that way, it is not known exactly. As well as why she previously had the name Shibrino. However, historical facts are successfully replaced by legends. If you believe them, then the Marfino estate acquired its name in the 18th century under Boris Golitsyn, whose name was either Martha or his wife, or his daughter who drowned in the pond. Historians do not confirm this, recalling that the name of Golitsyn's wife sounded like Maria, and is not at all an analogue of Martha. They also claim that under the prince this place was called Bogorodskoe.
The history of the manor has been known since the 15th century. At this time, the Moscow principality was actively expanding its borders. State foundations needed legislative registration. In 1497, the Sudebnik appears, the contents of which are still obligatory studied by students of the law faculty. It contained all the laws of the Russian principality, which contributed to the unification of all the collected lands. A certain Shchibrin, an expert on Russian legal customs and Roman law, who was closely associated with the Orthodox Church, actively participated in the development of this document. For his work, he received a generous allotment of land on the banks of the Ucha River. It was located in a village with a small church for 10-15 households. According to one version of historians, that is why the estate was originally called Shchibrino. In their own way, historians also answer the question about the origin of the name Marfino. They suggest that it was formed on behalf of one of the Christian sisters mentioned in the Gospel. Over time, St. Martha became the patroness of this village.
The owners of the estate often changed, until, finally, Boris Golitsyn became its owner. The teacher of Peter I was well educated, but poorly brought up. He unpleasantly surprised his contemporaries with cruelty, rudeness and a penchant for drunkenness. Having become the owner of the estate, he immediately began to reorganize it. A French park appeared here, a new house, a stone church of the Nativity of the Virgin, which we saw at the entrance to the estate.
Stone Church of the Nativity of the Virgin in Marfino
Golitsyn entrusted the construction of the church to the serf architect Vladimir Belozerov. Despite his social position, he studied architecture in France. However, in his work he adhered to Russian traditions, which he carefully took into account during the construction of the temple. Alas, the fate of the architect was deplorable. The church he built did not please Prince Golitsyn. But even worse was that the Holy Synod did not allow it to be consecrated, as it considered the influence of Catholicism in the master's creation. The serf architect was severely punished. The prince ordered him to be whipped with rods. Under their blows, the architect died. He was buried near the church he built.
In 1729 the estate changed its owner again. They became Count Peter Saltykov. He was a skilled commander, whose military career began under Peter I. He began serving in the army as a soldier of the Imperial Guard, and during the Prussian War he was already appointed commander-in-chief of the army. At first, this appointment caused some bewilderment in society, many considered the count to be a simpleton, "a real chicken." However, on the battlefield, he showed the talent of a military strategist, showed knowledge of soldier psychology, demonstrated firmness, courage and common sense.
Having settled in the Marfinsky estate, the count undertook its reconstruction. By his will, a stone palace appeared here, with two floors and two outbuildings. A beautiful park, greenhouses and a menagerie were laid out next to it. Outlandish plants were brought here from the southern countries, lemons, oranges, plums grew in the park. However, construction work soon had to be completed. Count Saltykov fell out of favor with Catherine II, and in 1771 was removed from service. The Empress considered the Count's short absence from Moscow during the plague riot to be unmanageable. Saltykov was very upset by disgrace and died in 1772.
The estate was inherited by the son of the count, Ivan Petrovich Saltykov. Following fashion, he ordered the construction of several classical buildings on the estate. Gazebos, pavilions, a horse yard, a winter church appeared in Marfino. The kennels built were unusual. They resembled ancient temples and did not look like outbuildings at all. Between the dwellings of the kennels there was a tower for storing hunters' equipment. In addition, the new owner organized a museum of birds and animals on the estate. Many of these buildings have survived to this day.
Ivan Petrovich was very fond of the park. Numerous gardeners were hired to take care of it. Wielding scissors and other tools, they turned bushes and trees into balls or pointed pyramids. Green tapestries were created by their hands. Shady alleys were decorated with marble sculptures. Running deep into the park, the paths looked like pretentious enfilades, and the park itself looked like a huge front hall, spread out under the vault of heaven.
The owner of the estate kept a fisherman among his serfs. There were many clean ponds in the park, from which fresh fish were caught for the master's table. In these waters, the inhabitants of Marfino did not have the right to swim or wash clothes. And fishing for mere mortals was forbidden here. Those who did not want to be punished for disobedience had to go downstream and only there to satisfy their needs.
Ponds in Marfino
The heyday of the Marfino estate came at the end of the 18th century. Many famous writers, composers visited here, the organ sounded, performances were staged. The cultural life of the owners of the estate was very rich. And, of course, the Russian soul demanded fun. Hundreds of guests were invited to participate in summer fun. In addition to boat rides, carousels and various games were arranged here. Ivan Petrovich Saltykov loved folk songs, dances and willingly attracted serfs to participate in the festivities. Fireworks were fired in honor of the guests, an orchestra played in the park and an 80-voice choir sang. The owner of the estate went hunting with pleasure, after which the tired but satisfied guests willingly sat down at a plentiful table.
When Ivan Petrovich died in 1805, the estate fell into silence and desolation. This continued until, after the war with the French, the estate passed to Sofya Panina. The new landowner took up the reconstruction of the estate. It was she who ordered the construction of a magnificent palace here. Surrounded by trees and water, it still pleases the tourist's eye and resembles an ancient, abandoned castle.
Castle in Marfino
This palace has not yet been completed, and the owner of the estate has already settled in it. The beauty of the estate fascinated her, which she mentioned more than once in her letters. The classics prevailed in the design of the palace interiors. Only in her bedroom and two chapels did the countess allow the use of Gothic decor. The palace had 24 rooms. The walls of many of them were decorated with portraits of representatives of the Panin family. Very beautiful and the descent leading from the palace to the pond. It is a majestic staircase with terraces located on it. The letter S is woven into the design of the cast-iron gratings - this is the nominal monogram of Countess Panina. The palace is currently undergoing extensive renovations. Who knows, maybe soon it will be possible to get there and see the restored interiors?
Palace in Marfino
Fragments of the Marfino Palace
Facade of Marfino
After the revolution, the new government nationalized the Marfino estate. The state took the estate under protection and settled here the students of the agricultural academy. Future agrarians lived in the estate during their internship. Then their places in Marfino were taken by former homeless children, pupils of the children's colony, whose refuge was the estate. Having existed for several years, the colony gave way to cooperators. They improved their health here, recovering from hard working days. And since 1930, a rest home for pilots was organized in the Marfinsky estate.
During the Patriotic War, the citizens of the USSR had no time for rest. There were fierce battles near Moscow, but the enemy did not reach Marfino. Perhaps this saved the estate from destruction. After several peaceful years, a sanatorium for the military was opened on the territory of the former estate. It functioned until the start of perestroika. Now, as I wrote above, the military is also being treated and resting in Marfino.
Walk in the park in Marfino
History is a good thing. But the real pleasure we got from walking in the park.
Marfinsky castle is good from all sides. To the right of the palace are gates, similar to knights. The passage to them was closed, so I had to be content with little.
Manor gate
First of all, we went down from the main palace to the pier, to two magical griffins. From here there was a beautiful view of the palace.
Griffins on the pier in Marfino
View of the Marfino Palace and the fountain
Griffins on the manor pier. Marfino estate near Moscow. Today there is a functioning sanatorium here. #marfino #griffins #Moscow region #estates #travel in Russia #travel #travelling
Posted by Nina and Natasha, travelers (@shagauru) Dec 1, 2016 at 5:19 pm PST
In addition to the palace and griffins, two pavilions have been preserved in the park since the time of the Saltykovs. Having reached the end of the alley, you can see the music pavilion, which has a semicircular shape.
Semicircular music pavilion
The second building looks like a rotunda-parnassus. It was built on a hill, not far from the descent leading to the lower pond. In the center of the rotunda is a sculpture of Apollo.
Arbor with sculpture of Apollo
Water plays a special role in the composition of the park. Marfinsky ponds are located at different levels, which gives the park a certain panorama. In total, the serf count dug three ponds. From the accumulated soil, they laid out paths. And in order not to bring bricks for arranging the park from afar, a small brick factory was built in the estate.
In Marfino park
Four islands have been created on the Marfino ponds. All of them are man-made, bulk. The islands themselves are beautiful, as are their names: "Island of Love", "Island of Meeting", "Island of Waiting", "Island of Parting". There is also a boat pier, from which the owners of the estate and their invited guests were seated in boats and set off on a pleasant journey to the sound of music.
In modern times, an observation deck was built, from where a very beautiful view of the ponds and the figured bridge opens.
Boat station in Marfino
Right in front of the observation deck, there is a small but touching monument to the Rottweiler. On the monument you can see the signature "To the beloved dog of Countess Panina."
Monument to the beloved dog of Countess Panina
What films were shot in Marfino
The Marfino estate has been featured in many Soviet and Russian films. Such famous films as "Master and Margarita", "Glass of Water", "Noble Nest" were filmed here. The interiors and landscapes of the estate helped to create on the screen a special atmosphere of that time, to convey the spirit of the rich nobles. You can feel it in reality by visiting the estate as a tourist. Walking along the water under the rustle of leaves, you can imagine yourself as an imposing countess who went down for a walk before breakfast.
How to get to Marfino from Moscow:
Address: 141722, Moscow region, Mytishchi district, s. Marfino
Those who do not want to climb through the hole will need to order a pass. Otherwise, he will simply not be allowed into the estate.
By car
along Dmitrovskoye highway 40 km, to the sign for the Sanatorium "Marfinsky". Follow the sign for about 3 km.
By public transport:
Bus number 37 goes here from Savelovsky railway station
From Art. m. "Altufievo" bus number 519, stop at the store "Perekrestok" from 6:00 to 21:00 with an interval of 1 hour 10 minutes;
From Art. Lobnya, route number 60.
Get by train to the station "Catuar", from there - by bus number 37 and 73 from 6.00 to 21.30 with an interval of 20 - 30 minutes
By the way, the bus schedule from Marfino was photographed at a bus stop near the sanatorium.
Route schedule
In general, I really enjoyed the trip. It is a pity that this estate is not freely available, like Arkhangelsk. I really hope that someday Marfino will make a museum complex, restore the interiors and hold various events for tourists. Still, people should not climb through holes to look at such an interesting historical site.
Do you think that in the Moscow region you are unlikely to be able to find places that can surprise or even amaze the most seasoned travelers? Do you think there are no shady benches left, hidden from prying eyes, or deserted alleys? If your opinion is really this, then you have not yet had a chance to visit a place called the Marfino estate. We hasten to assure you that this territory is actually amazing.
There is something for every tourist here. For example, the Marfino Estate will give architecture lovers a meeting with stunning monuments. Flora admirers will be happy to plunge into the atmosphere of the local fauna, which actually resembles a collection from the collection of valuable exhibits of the botanical gardens of the world.
The object of this article will be not only the Marfino estate, whose official website has recently become more and more popular. The reader will gather a lot of useful information for himself, among other things, telling about how to get to this park area without any problems, where to stay, what to see first.
Section 1. General description of the architectural monument
The Marfino estate in the Moscow region (39th kilometer of the Dmitrov highway) is a unique work of estate architecture, thousands of tourists come to admire its beauty every year not only from the most remote corners of the Russian Federation, but also from abroad.
Not everyone realizes that Marfino got its name in honor of Princess Marfa, daughter of Prince Boris Golitsyn.
Noble estates, preserved in central Russia, are amazing architectural and landscape monuments. A special atmosphere remains on their territory to this day.
Our contemporaries aspire to the preserved noble estates in order to get acquainted with landscape gardening ensembles, the organization of life and economic activities of people who lived in these places in the 16-19 centuries. That is why "Marfino's Estate" is a photo that deserves to become a real decoration of a family photo album. And they come here for completely different reasons. Someone seeks to celebrate a celebration in nature, someone likes walking, as they say, far from civilization, and there are those who come here out of pure curiosity in order to discover the sights of their native land.
Section 2. "Marfino"... Manor... How to get there?
In general, it should be noted that this place can be reached by using the train departing from the Travel time is 50 minutes. Get off at the Catoire station. Regular bus number 37 runs from the station to the estate. Perhaps this is the easiest way to get to your destination.
However, in fact, many are alarmed by the fact that there is no such stop as "Marfino's Estate". How to get there with your own vehicle? This question is of interest to a significant part of tourists, especially those who decide to travel with a child.
In general, according to experienced people, you can plan a trip by car. In this case, drive along Dmitrovskoye Highway to the 39th kilometer and turn in accordance with the sign. After the turn, there will be quite a bit left to overcome - only about 3 km. It remains to be noted that the Marfino estate on the map of the Moscow region is perfectly visible, so you definitely won’t be able to get lost.
Section 3. Milestones of past eras
The history of the creation of this noble estate dates back to the 16th century. In this picturesque place at that time were the boyar possessions of Vasily Golovin, who served as governor under Ivan the Terrible. The owners of the place called the Marfino estate changed frequently: the diplomat Vasily Shchelkalov (end of the 16th century), the Golovins again (until 1650), the duma clerk Semyon Zaborovsky (until 1698), the tutor of Peter I, Prince Boris Golitsyn (died in 1714 d.), and then his son Sergei, who sold the estate in order to receive funds to pay the debt, Field Marshal Pyotr Saltykov (since 1729). One listing of the names of these people speaks of how rich life was in these places, how much " remember” material monuments that have survived to this day.
The estate in Marfino once belonged to the tsar's associate Peter Borisovich Golitsyn, and a French park was laid out on its territory, majestic mansions were erected, and the construction of a stone church began.
Under the Saltykovs, a project was also carried out to create a magnificent garden and park ensemble. At that time, buildings were erected in the style of classicism. The highest flowering for Marfino is considered to be the end of the 18th century.
From the beginning of the 19th, idle life began to subside. The war of 1812 caused a lot of damage to the estate - art treasures were taken out, much was set on fire. In 1831, the buildings of the estate were reconstructed, and in the 19th century, the chief Moscow architect M. D. Bykovsky drew up a project according to which the estate complex in Marfino “turned” into a medieval castle.
The architectural style remarkably conveyed the spirit of the era - the loss of the former harmony, the romantic mood and the search for monumentality. After the revolution that took place in 1917, the estate passed into public ownership. In Soviet times, restoration work was regularly carried out in Marfino.
Section 4. Times of the Saltykovs
Under the Saltykovs, Marfino was a model of a noble estate of the Catherine era. There were 2 summer theaters on the territory, a carriage and horse yards, in the greenhouse they created conditions in which southern plants perfectly developed and fruits ripened.
At that time, the question was: "Marfino's estate ... How to get to this wonderful place?" few people cared. Why? The thing is that this place was so amazing and popular that not even dozens, but hundreds of guests came here almost every day.
Vigel's notes preserved a description of the importance, casual courtesy and accuracy of decorum of the inhabitants of the estate, who were worthy of admiration. True, unfortunately, after the death of the field marshal, it began to decline.
Section 5. Panin times
The daughter of Count Orlov Panina Sofya Vladimirovna was engaged in the restructuring of the house. Many structures were erected in the park. At the time when the work was supervised by F. Tugarov, the estate acquired the features of an Empire style.
And in the late 30s. In the 19th century, it received the features of "Nikolaev Gothic" (architect M. D. Bykovsky). The manor house in pseudo-Gothic style is a wonderful monument of Russian romanticism. The pink coloring of the walls inside the house was a bright element that created the mood of the knightly era.
Section 6. Where to stay for travelers
Manor "Marfino" ... The official website of this place reports that 8 hotels can accept tourists here at once. Comfortable conditions and reasonable prices are excellent conditions for spending time in a wonderful complex of a noble estate.
- Near the Main Botanical Garden is the hotel "Vostok". Equipped rooms with modern household appliances (TV, refrigerator, computer with Internet access) - excellent conditions for relaxation are created here.
- An inexpensive hotel room can be obtained at the Altai Hotel. The service and additional services offered to tourists in this hotel will allow you to appreciate the high class of the organization of the tourist business. For the information of jazz lovers, you can have a wonderful evening at the White Piano restaurant.
- At the service of tourists who seek to relax in a calm environment - "MARFIGOTEL". 8 rooms, a cozy homely atmosphere, a high level of service - in "MARFIGOTEL" you can have a great rest or do work using a computer - all the conditions in order to try to remember this name and address! The estate "Marfino" actually knows how to receive welcome guests.
- "Maxima Irbis" - a business class hotel - offers comfortable rooms. Due to the originality of the design and compliance with the standards adopted in Europe, "Maxima Irbis" is popular among young people. Newlyweds love to stay here. Buffet in the restaurant, business center and lobby bar - this hotel really has comfortable conditions that allow you to have a wonderful time.
Section 7. What to see first?
How many wonderful moments is ready to give its guests the estate "Marfino". A wedding held there, an anniversary or just a must-have are remembered for a long time and become the envy of those who have not yet been lucky enough to visit this place.
The main thing in Marfino, of course, is the palace. The two-story brick building rises on a hill. Near it is a large pond, the descent to which can be overcome by a white stone staircase. A pier has been built by the pond, which is decorated with stone sculptures of griffins.
- In the estate there are 2 churches: Peter and Paul (winter) and the Nativity of the Virgin.
- Park arbors, which previously served as the "Musical Pavilion" - semi-rotunda - and "Milovida" - a two-tiered rotunda.
- The brick bridge, turrets, loopholes and jagged ridges of the palace evoke associations with the fortress structure. Initially, the bridge was built under the Saltykovs, and then reconstructed by Bykovsky.
By the way, one cannot fail to mention the fact that famous films were shot in Marfino, including The Noble Nest, The Crusader, The Master and Margarita.
Section 8. Church of the Nativity of the Virgin
This church was erected according to the project of V. I. Belozerov. The building is distinguished by its slenderness and noble proportions. The basement of the church is lined with white stone blocks. A high light drum, a dome and a small cupola are the center of the composition of the church building. The fortress architect Belozerov, who built it, is buried next to the church.
By the way, I did not like that inside the temple space was reduced by pylons. He ordered Belozerov to be punished with rods, which is why the architect died, as his heart could not stand it.
Section 9. These amazing gazebos...
Arbors in Marfino are of great interest to tourists. One of them - the "Music Pavilion" - is made in the form of a semicircle with a semi-dome vault and a white stone bench inside.
Another gazebo - "Milovida" - a rotunda with 2 tiers. The lower tier is massive, while the second tier is graceful (an 8-columned pavilion with a dome). From "Milovydy" wonderful picturesque views open up.
Section 10. Bridge over the pond
This building is impressive. It consists of a central part (a gallery of 20 octagonal columns ending with turrets on both sides) and two side arched parts.
Its crests, turrets and loopholes evoke very vivid associations. The building looks like an element of the fortress. The upper part of the turrets is decorated with a cornice, and on top of it there are battlements, which are in harmony with the final elements of all manor buildings. The white-stone details and red walls of the bridge are a bright color solution.
Section 11. Peter and Paul Church (winter)
This church is a majestic building, characterized by a harmonious combination of masses. Decorative excesses were not used in its design. The central part is made in the form of a two-color rotunda with small ledges for the vestibule and the altar.
Made in the form of an octagon. Bells are kept in its premises.
Section 12
What is so special about her now? Let's try to list just a few points:
- The bells of the Church of Peter and Paul and today announce the neighborhood with their ringing.
- Since 1933, the estate has become the Marfinsky Central Military Clinical Sanatorium.
- In the premises of the "kennel" today there are "House of life" and a casino.
- There are springs with mineral water containing a large number of useful elements.
- It was very interesting to shoot films in the estate. Local children gladly took part in them as extras. On the set of The Master and Margarita, a helicopter was used to shoot a witch in flight on a broomstick. Known to everyone in our country, the film "The Woman Who Sings", a film about the history of poisoning, shooting a commercial for "Snickers" and many other filming events - a lot of interesting things really happened in Marfino and are happening today.
- Hotels in Marfino are always ready to offer their services to tourists.
- Picturesque nature and an architectural ensemble of amazing beauty - a photo session in Marfino will allow you to take many vivid pictures and preserve for a long time the memory of the Russian noble estate, which is carefully preserved today.
13. The estate is a favorite place for hiking
Marfino has excellent conditions for walking. Natural conditions here are favorable for recovery. In the pond located in Marfino, you can ride a boat. There is also a stable here.
On the territory there are sources of mineral water, the use of which allows to achieve a pronounced therapeutic effect. The estate today operates a multidisciplinary medical institution, the diagnostic base of which is one of the best in the Moscow region. However, it should be borne in mind that in order to freely visit all the sights of this noble estate, you should take care of a pass to the military sanatorium in advance.
(Russia, Moscow region, Mytishchi district, Marfino), 25 km from Moscow along Dmitrovskoye highway
If you present your passport (or other identification document) at the checkpoint, you can get a pass to visit the estate
A magnificent ensemble and an unusual architectural and planning solution of the great master M.D. Bykovsky charm you at first sight.
The first mention of Marfin dates back to 1585, when the estate was called Shchibrino and belonged to the duma clerk, head of the embassy department V.Ya. Shchelkalov. In the first half of the 17th century, the patrimony was owned by the Golovins, and from 1650 by the clerk S.I. Zaborsky. In 1698, Shchibrino was acquired by the teacher of Tsar Peter I, B.A. Golitsyn, who named her after his wife Martha - Marfino.
Only the miniature Nativity Church, built in 1707 by fortress architect Vasily Belozyorov, has survived from the Golitsyn construction period to the present day.
Since 1728, Marfino passes to the Saltykovs and from the middle of the 18th century. under Pyotr Semyonovich Saltykov, a major Russian military leader, extensive construction began on the estate. The round two-tier pavilion "Milovid", a semi-rotunda gazebo and two buildings of kennels - that's what has been preserved from that time to the present day.
Countess A.I. Saltykova, the granddaughter of the field marshal, in 1805 married Count G.V. Orlov, and he got Marfino as a dowry. He sold the estate to his father, Vladimir Grigoryevich Orlov, one of the famous Orlov brothers. In 1831 Count V.G. Orlov died, and according to the will, the estate passed to his daughter Sofya Vladimirovna Panina. During her reign, the manor buildings, restored by her father after the invasion of Napoleonic soldiers, were reconstructed in the style of "Nikolaev" Gothic. For the arrangement of Marfino, a prominent Moscow architect was invited - a student of Domenico Gilardi - Bykovsky Mikhail Dormidontovich.
The steep slope of the shore of the pond forms a majestic pedestal on which the palace rises. Two-storied, built of brick and plastered, it has a low plinth. Designed in classical forms typical of the first quarter of the 19th century, the palace is an elongated rectangle with a clearly defined center. Rebuilding it, Bykovsky made changes to the appearance of the building, endowing the palace with decorative elements of pseudo-Gothic. Two outbuildings standing perpendicular to the palace, built in the 1820s. serf architect Orlov Tugarov and rebuilt in 1832. ode to Bykovsky.
The house is flanked by massive arched entrance gates with round guard towers. From the palace to the pond, through two terraces with retaining walls, a front white stone staircase ran, compositionally completed on the lower tier with a fountain and a pier. This, masterfully organized part of the park, is the most beautiful. A bright artistic accent here is the stone sculptures of griffins, erected on wide abutments along the sides of the descent to the water.
According to experts, the most original and beautiful building in Marfino is the bridge across the pond. Erected in the 1770s. under the Saltykovs, it was radically rebuilt by M.D. Bykovsky in 1837-1839.
Marfino Park was great. The prospects of alleys going into its depths resembled palace enfilades. Marble sculpture and pavilions skillfully placed in the landscape environment gave special sophistication and poetry to the alleys.
Now in the estate there is a Central military-clinical sanatorium. You can get into the territory if you show some ingenuity, but the guards are on the alert...
Archival photographs of the Marfino estate
Personalities
Count I.P. SALTYKOV, 1730-1805, son of Field Marshal Count Pyotr Semenovich Saltykov and gr. Praskovya Yurievna, born Princess Trubetskoy, in 1745 entered the service of the guards, was for some time in the court with the rank of chamber junker, and in 1760 was released into the army as a brigadier. Participating in the Seven Years' War, he was promoted to major general, received in 1762 from Peter III the Order of St. Anna 2nd class, and at the coronation of Catherine - the Alexander ribbon. In the first Turkish warrior, with the rank of lieutenant general, under the banner of Rumyantsev, he participated in the capture of Khotyn and in the battle of Cahul, commanding heavy cavalry, drew attention to himself with his courage and was awarded George 2 tbsp. and a golden sword with diamonds. At the end of the war, he commanded a corps in the Polish provinces, and in 1784 was appointed adjutant general and governor general of the Vladimir and Kostroma viceroy. In 1788, the renewed war with Turkey again called him into the ranks of the troops, and he marked himself by the second capture of Khotyn. In 1790, Catherine entrusted him with the command of the Finnish army and, upon the conclusion of the Treaty of Verel, granted him the rank of Lieutenant Colonel of the Guards of the Horse Regiment and diamond badges of the hordes. St. Andrew. Misunderstandings with Count Rumyantsev-Zadunaisky forced Count Saltykov to retire in 1795, but the following year Paul I again called him to the service, renamed him cavalry generals and appointed him chief of the Cuirassier regiment, Kyiv governor-general, field marshal and inspector general over all cavalry. At the end of 1797 Count I.P. Saltykov was appointed the Moscow military governor-general, remained in this position until 1804, then left the service and moved to St. Petersburg, where he soon died on November 14, 1805. He was buried next to his father in the family estate of the Yaroslavl province.
According to contemporaries, Count Ivan Petrovich was a man of a gentle and good-natured character, extremely simple and accessible in circulation, in which, however, one noticed the habit of ruling and commanding. Not being gifted with an outstanding mind, he was not without a certain dose of sharpness and even cunning; as a military leader, he was distinguished more by courage than art; Suvorov did not highly appreciate his military abilities, and Catherine herself was sometimes dissatisfied with his military actions. When he was Governor General of Moscow, Count Saltykov enjoyed universal love and respect and did a lot of good. However, in fact, the main power in Moscow belonged to Pavel's favorite, the omnipotent Moscow police chief Ertel, to whom Saltykov transferred almost all management affairs, leaving behind him only the command of the troops and the brilliance of representation. In this regard, thanks to his enormous fortune, Count Ivan Petrovich had every opportunity to satisfy his inclination towards a lavish and luxurious lifestyle. Count Saltykov was a great sybarite, he loved carousing and women, and his main passion was hunting, to which he devoted all his free time, I have up to a hundred people of my own kennels.
Count I.P. Saltykov was married to the daughter of Count Pyotr Grigoryevich Chernyshev, Countess Darya Petrovna. From his marriage to her he had one son and three daughters. The death of his wife in 1802 was a heavy blow to Count Ivan Petrovich and, finally upsetting his health, prompted him to retire. He moved to St. Petersburg and settled with his eldest daughter, P.I. Myatleva, who outlived the rest of his children and became the heiress of the enormous Saltykovsky fortune.
(From a miniature belonging to the Imperial Hermitage)
Countess D.P. SALTYKOVA, 1759-1802, daughter of Count Peter Grigoryevich Chernyshev (1712-1775), who was considered by many to be the son of Peter the Great. Her mother, Countess Ekaterina Andreevna, born Ushakova, was the daughter of the famous head of the Secret Chancellery under Biron, later Count, Andrei Ivanovich Ushakov. Countess Darya Petrovna spent her youth abroad, where her father was for many years an envoy to the Danish, Berlin and English courts and an ambassador to Paris. There she received that brilliant upbringing, which placed her, as well as her sister, Princess Natalia Petrovna Golitsyna, known as "Princesse Moustache", among the most educated Russian women of the late 18th century. Having married Count Ivan Petrovich Saltykov, she occupied a prominent position in the world, which was greatly facilitated by her extremely original personality. Being a woman of the strictest virtue and standing immeasurably higher than her husband in mind and moral qualities, she condescendingly, with a touch of contempt, treated his many love affairs, never stooping to jealousy. Her husband paid her deep affection and respect and was inconsolable at her death. She herself was engaged in raising her daughters, of whom the eldest, Praskovya, married a senator, P.V. Myatlev, and the youngest, Anna, for Count G.V. Orlova; her second daughter, Elizabeth, died a virgin. Her favorite was the youngest of the children, the only son, Count Pyotr Ivanovich, who in 1812 donated a significant part of his fortune to arm the whole regiment, called Saltykovsky. Countess Saltykova died of an upset stomach in 1802, on her way to Moscow at the Khotilovo station, returning with her husband from St. Petersburg.
Tall, imposing, with masculine manners, she somewhat resembled Catherine with her majestic appearance. Many reproached her for arrogance, which was partly due to her taciturnity in society due to insufficient, thanks to her foreign upbringing, acquaintance with the Russian language, which had not yet been ousted by French from the living rooms of high society. “She combined,” according to Vigel, “all the importance of the Russian boyars of the pre-Petrine era, with the refined politeness and ease of treatment of the court ladies of the Versailles court.” Countess Saltykova enjoyed great importance in society and at court, and was known for her independence and sometimes harshness of her judgments. On September 2, 1795, on the day of the celebration on the occasion of the conclusion of peace with Porto, Saltykova was granted the title of lady of state, and on the coronation of Paul I she received the Order of St. Catherine of the 1st class.
When Count I.P. Saltykov as the Governor-General of Moscow, the Saltykovs' house was like a small courtyard. Countess Darya Petrovna treated the talented French portrait painter Madame Vigée-Lebrun who came to Moscow with great interest, delivered many orders to her and was interested in her work, visiting her workshop. Countess Saltykova spent summers at her husband's estate near Moscow, Marfine; the festivities she organized there, which lasted several days, were not inferior in luxury to her Moscow balls. Amateur performances in Marfin were especially famous; French comedies by Marivaux were given on them, as well as operas, Russian and French. At one of these performances, a play called “Only for Marfin” was given, and its author, Karamzin, was among the guests.
(From a miniature that belonged to the Imperial Hermitage)
Countess S.V. PANINA, 1774-1844, wife of Vice-Chancellor Count Panin, daughter of Count Vladimir Grigoryevich Orlov, born November 6, 1774; in 1790 she married Count Nikita Petrovich Panin; She was known for her charitable work, especially for her concerns about improving the life of the serfs who belonged to her. In character she was the exact opposite of her husband, a dry and stubborn man; according to contemporaries, sa femme etait une personne douce, aimable, d'un coeur bienveillantcc. Sharing the disgraced fate of her husband, she spent most of her life in Moscow and in the village of Dugin, Smolensk province. Died, aged 70, January 7, 1844.
She had two sons: c. Alexandra (b. 1791 - February 15, 1850) and c. Victor (b. April 18, 1801 - April 12, 1874; well-known Minister of Justice), and 3 daughters who died unmarried: c. Sophia (b. 1797 - December 26, 1833), c. Adelaide (b. 1798 - April 17, 1829) and c. Faith (b. 1808 - April 9, 1841).
(From the portrait of Voial, 1791; property of Countess S.V. Panina, Marfino village, Moscow province.)
Count N.P. PANIN , 1771-1837, son of c. Peter Ivanovich and his second wife, Mapia Rodionovna, born. Vedel, was first brought up in St. Petersburg with his uncle, c. N. I. Panin, to whom he was entrusted after the death of his mother by his father; when gr. Nikita Ivanovich died, in 1785, Nikita Petrovich returned to his father, who lived in Moscow, and studied military sciences at home. Known as the “first liar” and “personal offender” of Empress Catherine, Count Pyotr Ivanovich inspired his son with affection for the heir to the throne, and when the Grand Duke went to Finland to take part in hostilities against the Swedes, Panin sent his son to him as a volunteer; here he is received the rank of brigadier. Upon his return from the campaign, Panin married Count Sofia Vladimirovna Orlova. The absence of female influence in the upbringing of Nikita Petrovich, the constant stay with the disgraced, and therefore irritable and stubborn, father and uncle, had a harmful effect on his character - he was a man steep, straightforward, with excessively developed ambition, with an icy appearance, at one glance at his tall, dry figure, with a fixed face and a sharp, cold look, many felt antipathy for him.There is therefore nothing surprising in the fact that, having entered in 1791 ., after the death of his father, in the service of the court of Grand Duke Pavel Petrovich, Panin did not stay long with him; the reason was his quarrel with the Grand Duke, who was not inferior to him in a stern disposition. Obviously, Catherine did not like Panin either: having appointed him chamberlain in 1795, she did not want to give him the diplomatic service he sought, and in 1795 appointed him governor and commander of a brigade in Grodno. Emperor Paul, upon accession to the throne, appointed him a member of the College of Foreign Affairs, and then, in August 1797, Minister Plenipotentiary to Berlin. He was instructed, mainly, to promote the rapprochement of France with Russia. Panin discovered remarkable abilities in Berlin, but, hostile to France, he pursued his own policy: he himself contributed to the failure of the non-regulations and, on the contrary, tried in every possible way to promote rapprochement between Austria and Prussia. Panin's "mediation", however, was not successful, and he was recalled to St. Petersburg, where in 1799 he was appointed Vice-Chancellor, at the moment of Russia's break with France. The further course of affairs was, however, not to Panin's liking: the perfidy of Austria and England prompted Emperor Paul to leave the coalition against France and even threaten his former allies with war; moreover, under the influence of Rostopchin, the rapprochement between Russia and France began. An ardent supporter of an alliance with Austria and England, Panin, at the beginning of 1800. granted by the action, secrets, adviser, remained without any influence on the affairs. It was then that Panin's campaigning activities began, who entered into relations with the British ambassador Whitworth and, acting in concert with him and Vice Admiral de Ribas, thought to take advantage of the displeasure of society to force the Emperor to abdicate the throne in favor of Grand Duke Alexander Pavlovich. In the autumn of 1800 the head of the conspiracy conceived by Panin became c. Palen. In the middle of November 1800, Panin was dismissed from the post of vice-chancellor, with an appointment to the Senate, and in December he was sent to his estate Dugino, Smolensk province, but then he was soon allowed to live in the vicinity of Moscow. On March 12, 1801, Emperor Alexander summoned Panin to St. Petersburg and appointed him a member of the Collegium of Foreign Affairs. But the faces surrounding the young Sovereign did not see eye to eye with Panin, and Empress Maria Feodorovna loudly condemned Panin's behavior in the year preceding the death of Emperor Paul. On September 30, 1801, Panin, at the request, was dismissed from the service and went abroad. Upon his return to Russia, he was forbidden to live in the capitals, and when, at the end of 1806, the Smolensk nobility elected him head of the Zemstvo militia, the government did not approve this choice. Panin's disgrace continued into the reign of Emperor Nicholas I.
Inclined to everything supernatural and miraculous, he was engaged in the study of various mysterious sciences and magnetism in the wilderness, and dictated the results of his research to his son Viktor Nikitich, who wrote entire folios.
Count N.P. Panin died on March 1, 1837 in Dugin, where he was buried.
(From the portrait of Veil, owned by Countess S.V. Panina, Marfino village, Moscow province.)
Manor park
Marfino. The territory of the holiday home "Marfino" occupies approximately 20 hectares. The terrain is leveled, the landscape is picturesque. In the past, part of this territory belonged to the estate of the XVI century. Marfino. At present, there are many new buildings, plantings, and ponds. The layout is made in a regular style, there are many alley and group plantings. The park is full of introduced species. There are 20 species, of which three are conifers: single specimens of old Siberian larches (height 21 m, trunk diameter 90 cm), magnificent alleys of prickly spruce with blue needles (height 15 m, trunk diameter 24 cm), alleys and groups of thuja western (height 6 m, trunk diameter 10 cm). Of the old hardwoods, the most remarkable is white poplar, which forms alleys (height 20 m, trunk diameter 35 cm). Alleys of white poplar deserve protection. There are more than ten types of ornamental shrubs in the plantings, among them, hedges of brilliant cotoneaster, Tatar honeysuckle, crown and virgin mock orange. Maples are planted in groups: silver and Tatar; Maaka bird cherry (height 14 m, trunk diameter 24 cm) and mountain ash hybrid (height 5 m, crown diameter 480 cm) are found in separate specimens. There are many lilacs and meadowsweet everywhere. The state of plantings and care for them is satisfactory. Plants of the local flora are quite successfully involved in landscaping. A total of 11 species were noted: two species of conifers and nine species of hardwoods. There is a lot of small-leaved linden in the alleys (height 20 m, trunk diameter 60 cm), weeping birch is represented in group plantings (height 14 m, trunk diameter 30 cm), in alleys and groups - common spruce (height 25 m, trunk diameter 60 cm) , there is one copy of the weeping form of Norway spruce (height 12 m, trunk diameter 25 cm). The condition of the plants is satisfactory. They all bear fruit. Some of them have good seed renewal, they can be used as mother liquors.
The area of the sanatorium "Marfino" is approximately 50 hectares. The terrain is uneven. The landscape is picturesque; river flows here. Ucha, there is a system of ponds. The regular style of the park layout, a two-story palace, a round two-tier pavilion "Milovida" with columns, a Gothic bridge, griffins hanging over the pier of the pond, a fountain bowl, and sculptures have been preserved from previous years. The estate "Marfino" has been known since 1585, founded by a prominent figure of the 16th century. V. Ya. Shchelkalov. The estate received its name at the end of the 17th century. under Prince B. A. Golitsyn. A number of structures created by the architect Acad. M. D. Bykovsky in the XVIII century. Very old trees grow in the park, the assortment of plants is diverse, among them: Siberian fir (height 35 m, trunk diameter 54 cm), Siberian larch alley (height 34 m, trunk diameter 108 cm), single specimens of Siberian cedar pine (height 23 m, trunk diameter 51 cm) and Weymouth pine (height 30 m, trunk diameter 105 cm), thuja western alley (height 8 m, trunk diameter 14 cm). A total of 18 introduced species were noted, of which six species are coniferous and 12 deciduous. Black hawthorn (height 3 m) is used in the hedge. There are many maples in young plantings: ash-leaved and Tatar. Representatives of the local flora - 14 species: two species of coniferous and 12 deciduous. Most of all are common pine (height 30 m, trunk diameter 65 cm), English oak (height 20 m, trunk diameter 102 cm) and small-leaved linden (height 23 m, trunk diameter 104 cm). The latter has formed a linden grove, which in some places alternates with groups of birches. The condition of all plantings and care for them is satisfactory. Restoration of the old park and replanting of young plants should be recommended.
