Mar 29 2017

Home (room) geranium or pelargonium - home care

Houseplant pelargonium (popularly it is often called home or room geranium), belongs to the Geranium family. This family includes 5 genera and 800 plant species. Geranium is the most numerous genus, and pelargonium is the most popular species from the Geraniev family. Therefore, when they talk about caring for geraniums at home, they most often mean pelargonium. We will help you figure out what are the similarities and what are the differences between these plants.

Their main similarity is that both plants belong to the Geranium family. And in appearance they are similar. The shape of the seed capsule resembles the elongated beak of a crane in both species. Their erect stems and leaves covered with glandular fine hairs, arranged oppositely or alternately, are also similar. Both plants have a characteristic specific smell, bright appearance, and are medicinal. They are unpretentious, resilient, love good lighting, they are easy to grow and propagate.

What is the difference between Pelargonium and Geranium

No one has been able to cross these plants with each other and get seeds - they have different genetic characteristics. Pelargonium is an alien from the African savannas, and geranium comes from the northern hemisphere. Therefore, the heat-loving pelargonium prefers the warm window sills of the apartment, and the geranium blooms in gardens and meadows until frost. In central Russia, geranium, meadow and forest, is found everywhere, calmly endures the winter without shelter. Only in the Far Eastern and Northern regions does it not grow - there the climatic conditions are too harsh for it. Geranium flowers have 5 or, rarely, 8 petals. Regular geranium flowers. Domestic geranium, pelargonium, has five petal flowers of irregular shape: the top two petals are separated from the bottom three and slightly larger. Geranium flowers are usually solitary, but sometimes collected in inflorescences. Geranium has ten developed fertile stamens. Pelargonium flowers are collected in spectacular umbrella inflorescences. Pelargonium has no more than seven fertile stamens. The rest are underdeveloped. Geranium flowers are painted in a wide variety of shades, often blue-violet. Only the scarlet color in geraniums is never found. Pelargonium, on the other hand, does not have blue flowers. They are usually white, red and pale pink. Geranium can be found in every garden - summer residents love it very much. Popular varieties of geranium: Gorgeous, Georgian, Oxford. It blooms from early summer until frost. And pelargonium pleases with its flowering at home almost all year round. In summer, it is quite possible to take it out to the balcony or even to the garden. But with the onset of a cold snap, pelargonium is returned to the house on a warm windowsill.

The most favorite varieties of pelargonium

Fragrant is a lush bush with small leaves and bright flowers. Gives off a pleasant lemon or mint aroma. Less common is fragrant pelargonium with the smell of nutmeg, orange or apple. However, the flowers are inconspicuous, and the leaves are rough and flat. Essential oils and aromatic substances for cooking are isolated from them. The leaves themselves are not used for food!

Royal is a kind of bush with a short stem, large flowers and serrated leaves without a zonal pattern. It blooms with very beautiful flowers, but not for long. This group of pelargoniums was bred in the 60s of the last century.

Angel is a hybrid of the curly variety, which is part of the royal pelargonium group. Similar to the royal, but smaller, more compact, with small leaves and flowers, similar to pansies.

Ampelous or ivy-leaved - this pelargonium has thin stems and an ampelous growth pattern. Its leaves look like ivy, and the flowers are both simple and double, and even in the form of rosettes.

Zonal - this bush has a developed upright stem and dark circles on the leaves that divide the leaf plate into multi-colored zones. Flowers are simple and double. They are not large, collected in inflorescences, umbrellas of white, red or pale pink. Many people call this pelargonium geranium.

Features of caring for geraniums and pelargonium differ no more than caring for a garden plant from caring for a houseplant.

We will consider growing indoor geraniums - pelargonium. It depends only on the care of its owner how long the external attractiveness of the plant will last, and the lush and bright inflorescences of pelargonium will decorate the interior of your apartment. Under home conditions, decorative varieties of pelargonium retain their spectacular appearance for at least five years. But there were cases when pelargonium lived and bloomed for ten or more years with good hosts. We will introduce you to simple conditions under which your pet will delight you with its beauty for a long time and strengthen your health.

Among the decorative flowering home flowers, there are very few representatives that are as attractive and, at the same time, unpretentious in care as pelargonium. Now you will see for yourself.

Content temperature

All year round, pelargonium feels great at normal room temperature. It does not require greenhouse maintenance, it is quite tolerant of high summer temperatures and in winter it will be comfortable on a cool windowsill, only its leaves should not touch the cold glass.

Lighting

Pelargonium loves well-lit places both for growing in a pot and for its summer content in a garden in a flower bed. On the windowsill, on the hottest summer days, it is advisable to cover its leaves from the scorching sun. In the rest of the year, she is only glad for the sunlight, because with its lack of leaves and flowers become smaller and brittle. On the balcony, if it is located on the south side of the apartment, pelargonium will bloom all summer. On the northern windows in winter, pelargoniums may not have enough natural light. Her shoots will begin to stretch, the decorative effect will be lost. In this case, you will have to resort to additional lighting with a fluorescent lamp or a phyto lamp.

Air humidity

Pelargonium does not like too humid indoor air. Does not tolerate spraying of leaves and flowers. Ventilate your room more often. Take flowers in the warm season to balconies and verandas for fresh air.

Watering

In the summer, pelargonium should be watered daily, but little by little. Water should be at room temperature and settled. Avoid excessive soil moisture and water on leaves and flowers. Drain excess water from trays. Do not water until the top layer of the substrate has dried out. This will protect your beauty from root rot and plant death. In winter, pelargonium is watered less frequently, a couple of times a week.

The soil

The soil for pelargoniums should be fertile and loose with a pH of 7 or slightly less. For home maintenance in pots, you can purchase a special soil mixture for flowering geraniums or pelargoniums. Independently, the soil can be prepared from a mixture of garden soil, sand and peat in equal quantities. Before use, disinfect the substrate - ignite or steam. And do not forget to put a good layer of expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom of the pot. In order for the roots of pelargonium to have good access to oxygen, the soil must be loosened both in the pot and in the garden.

Pot

Young pelargonium likes the pot to be small, which is 10 cm wide, which is 10 cm long. Accordingly, an adult beauty will bloom better when her root system braids the entire earthen ball in a flower container. You can plant two plants in one pot at the same time - with different, contrasting, flower colors, for example, with white and red petals. It will be very beautiful.

Top dressing and fertilizers for pelargonium

From time to time, pelargonium needs to be fed. Especially when she sits in a small pot. It does not tolerate organic fertilizers, especially fresh ones; feed them with mineral fertilizers. On sale there are special dressings for flowering ornamental plants. Apply them during the growing season and flowering, spring and summer, once every 2 weeks. Pelargonium does not need to be fed in autumn and winter. A good top dressing for pelargoniums is iodine water: in 1 liter. separated water drip 1 drop of iodine, stir. Water the moist (after the main watering) soil near the walls of the pot so as not to accidentally burn the roots. Geranium will immediately respond with a stormy and chic flowering.

Pelargonium transplant

If the pelargonium root system does not fit in the pot, its roots peek out of the drainage holes, and the plant wilts soon after watering - it's time to transplant the geranium into another pot. Take a pot 3 - 4 cm larger than it was, preferably clay. Pour boiling water over it to avoid fungal or viral diseases of its former tenants. As with any plant, transplanting for pelargonium is stressful. Therefore, try to transplant the plant into a new pot carefully, along with the ground, without damaging its root system. And do this procedure no more than once every two to three years. You can only from time to time pour fresh nutrient soil into the flower pot.

If you have a large pot, plant two or three pelargonium bushes in it at once. In close quarters, but not offended - together they will bloom better!

Pruning house geraniums

During the summer flowering, you do not cut the pelargonium. Just cut off faded inflorescences-umbrellas so that they do not pull moisture and nutrients onto themselves. In autumn, it happens that pelargonium turns into a voluminous shapeless bush, completely devoid of attractiveness. When flowering stops, homemade geraniums need to be cut. Moreover, the stronger you cut it, the more shoots will appear next spring, the richer and thicker its crown will be, the more abundant and longer the pelargonium will bloom next year. Deep pruning should not be afraid, because on a bare stem there are plenty of dormant buds that will start growing even in winter.

Pruning is especially needed for zonal pelargoniums, it is they who, more often than others, are found on flower shelves and window sills of flower growers. Royal varieties have a slightly different agricultural technique, so such plants are formed more accurately and only in the second year after planting. In winter, pelargonium is not pruned. In winter, the protective forces and metabolic processes of the plant are weakened. Cuttings cut at this time do not take root.

After winter, pelargonium usually loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. Depending on the care and place of its maintenance, individual branches are extended, others are exposed. At the beginning of spring, in no case in winter, it is necessary to put its crown in order - to make a pruning. Do not let the bush grow too strong - try to give the crown a beautiful look. It is better to cut large old stems, leaving only young shoots. If the shoot has six or more leaves, it needs to pinch the top in order for the bush to become more magnificent. For the same purpose, when growing pelargonium from a cutting, after 8-10 leaves, the growth point is removed. When growing from seeds, this is done a little earlier, after 6-8 leaves. Shoots that grow from the upper axils of the leaves are removed, leaving only shoots growing closer to the root. Keep in mind that pinching and pruning the plant will delay flowering for a while. Do these procedures in early spring.

Reproduction of room pelargonium

Homemade geranium, i.e. pelargonium, propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

cuttings

This is the easiest and fastest way - using cuttings. In addition, the signs of the mother plant are fully preserved, and the first flowering already occurs in the first summer after rooting. Cut the cuttings from the tops of an adult plant, 7-10 cm long, with four to five leaves. Make a cut under the kidney obliquely. Cut off the bottom pair of leaves. Let the cuttings lie in the air for two to three hours, so that the sections dry out and, as it were, drag on with a film. Sprinkle them with crushed activated charcoal and plant them in a prepared, slightly damp, substrate. Don't hide anything. Put the pots in a well-lit place, but not in the sun! Do not water for days. The next day, start watering very carefully, drop by drop, to prevent rotting of the shoots. In a month, good roots should appear. Young pelargonium can be transplanted into a permanent pot and cared for like other plants. To make the bush grow lush, pinch at the growth point at the top.

Sometimes, the cuttings are placed in a glass of settled warm water. With this method, rotting of the cuttings is more common. We recommend adding an activated charcoal tablet to the water. And store more cuttings for rooting at once, in case they die.

If your pelargonium has grown too high during the winter, leave only part of the trunk with the lower young rosettes in the pot, and cut off the rest and use it for propagation. We have already described above how to root the tops of the shoots. Cut the middle of the trunk into pieces so that each has several buds. Roots will grow from the lower buds, and shoots with leaves will go from the upper buds. Root the parts of an adult healthy trunk cut on a piece in the same way: dry it, treat the cut with crushed coal, it does not hurt to dip it in Kornevin powder, then plant it in the ground. Do not flood young plantings - they must breathe. In early spring, the survival rate of cuttings is almost 100%.

Reproduction by seeds

It is believed that pelargonium grown from seeds grows more magnificently and blooms much better than grown from cuttings. May be. But this method is more complicated and time consuming. Purchase seeds in special trusted stores. Sowing time is January or February. Spread the seeds on a slightly damp surface of the substrate in a container, close the lid. You can use another container, then cover it with film or glass. Put in a warm dark place. The temperature should be within 20 - 25 gr. In a week or two, the first shoots should appear. Move the container or other container with seedlings to a bright place. Open the lid of the container slightly to ventilate the greenhouse and remove the condensate that has accumulated there. When two true leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be picked. It is advisable to reduce the temperature of further maintenance to 16 - 18 gr. After a couple of months, the grown pelargoniums can be planted in small pots and begin to care for them, as for adult plants.

The division of the bush

Sometimes an adult plant is propagated by dividing the bush into two approximately equal parts. To do this, take the plant out of the pot. Shake the soil from the roots. Gently straighten and distribute the root system into two parts. With a sharp clean knife, the bush is divided into two parts. Slices must be sprinkled with crushed wood or activated charcoal. Each part of the pelargonium is planted in its own pot according to all the rules for a successful planting. Healthy strong plants will quickly restore their shape and will bloom in the same summer.

There is no pronounced dormant period for domestic geraniums. She does not shed her leaves, but drinks less water and rarely blooms. During this period, it is desirable to water it less. Once every 10 days is enough. And don't feed. You will begin to fertilize in the spring with complex fertilizers with nitrogen, and in the summer - with potassium-phosphorus. But, a little. The temperature is also desirable to reduce to 20 gr. afternoon. Below 12 gr. It is generally better not to lower the temperature, even at night. It is good to put a flower pot on a cold windowsill - the coolness from the window glass will be enough for a quiet winter life of home pelargonium.

Diseases

Blackleg

If the base of the stem turned black, it began to rot - your pelargonium became infected with a terrible disease for indoor flowers -. Most likely, you allowed waterlogging of the soil and hypothermia of the root system of the plant. We are sorry, but pelargonium can no longer be saved. The bush must be destroyed along with the earth. The pot can be disinfected and used again.

gray mold

On the leaves of pelargonium, a gray mold appeared in the form of a plaque or cobweb. Stems have dark spots. This happens with abundant watering, when the soil does not dry out well. The roots suffer without air. You most likely have heavy soil or poor drainage. Therefore, pelargonium developed a disease - gray mold. It is caused by fungi and is therefore treated with antifungal drugs - fungicides.

leaf rust

Small yellow-red spots appeared on the leaves of the pelargonium, which eventually turned into stripes. The leaves turned yellow, withered and fell off. This is a fungal disease. It appeared from high humidity in the room, uneven and irregular watering. But perhaps the fungi came to you with infected soil. Leaves and shoots affected by rust, remove. Spray the flower 2 - 3 times with a break of 10 days with fungicides, such as oxychom, Abiga Peak and others.

Biological products, such as phytosporin, do not treat rust!

powdery mildew

Mealy spots appeared on the leaves of the pelargonium and on its flowers. They are easy to remove, but they appear again and again, increase, become gray, dense, after that they turn brown. The leaves dry up, the flowers fall off. The plant stops growing. Perhaps your room has very high humidity and heat. You may have overfed your pelargonium with nitrogen fertilizers. Instead of blooming more abundantly, the flower got sick. Ventilate the room regularly, do not spray the plants, do not feed it with fertilizers containing nitrogen additives. Spray the flower with a solution of water with milk and iodine or fungicides such as topaz or oxychom.

Other home geranium problems

Other home geranium problems, why the leaves turn yellow and what to do in this case:

• If your pelargonium leaves turn yellow and dry, especially the lower ones, there is a lack of moisture in the soil. Increase watering, after which always loosen the ground. Remove yellowed leaves with your hands, do not use scissors.
• If the leaves at the top of the bush have become damp and loose, you are watering your flowers too often and abundantly. Adjust watering, drain excess water from the pan. Water when the top layer of soil is slightly dry.
• If the leaves of the pelargonium turn red, and it suddenly stops blooming, it is most likely that a cold snap has come and the plant has frozen. Move it to a warm place, and everything will be fine.
• If a pink tan from sunlight appears on the leaves of a flowering pelargonium, this is a normal phenomenon, common for summer cultivation in flower beds.
• If the leaves began to fly around the pelargonium, and the lower part of the trunk was bare, the pot is probably in a dark place. The plant does not have enough light. Move it to a sunny windowsill, and the bush will grow back and begin to bloom.
• If pelargonium is actively growing, does not get sick, there are no pests, but does not bloom, then the reason lies, most likely, in the too high temperature of the air surrounding the flower. Pelargonium is thermophilic, but it is hard for her to be constantly in the 30-degree heat. Indoors at high temperatures, pelargonium refuses to bloom. Take it out into the fresh air - to a balcony or veranda - we are sure it will bloom there.
• Another reason for not flowering may be too large a pot or an excess of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil. Pelargonium fattens, increases the mass of green leaves to the detriment of flowering. Remove the bush from the pot, gently shake off the soil, inspect the root system. Now select a pot according to the size of the root system of the plant. Do not forget about good drainage, loose soil in which you will plant your flower again. Water sparingly but regularly. Place in a well lit area. After some time, the pelargonium will definitely bloom.

Pests

Since ancient times, people have been treated with indoor plants, specially grown those that are most suitable for them for medicinal purposes. Pelargonium has many magical properties. Flower pots with geraniums often decorated window sills in our grandmothers' bedrooms and kitchens. It has been proven that the aroma of pelargonium helps to get rid of headaches and stress. At the same time, ants and flies do not like their smell. Decoctions of leaves treat the gastrointestinal tract and nervous disorders in humans. They are drunk during insomnia. In addition, they treat joint pain, conjunctivitis, hypertension and much more. But there are contraindications - consult your doctor before prescribing this or that treatment for yourself.

Since ancient times, pelargonium (earlier everyone called it geranium) has been grown in every family. It was believed that she protects the house from damage and the evil eye, protects the family from conflicts and quarrels, and contributes to the material well-being of its owners. Where flowering geranium grows, love and harmony live there! Who knows?! But already for the fact that this abundantly flowering plant is so attractive and completely unpretentious - you should start it at home!

This post has no tags

Pelargonium is no longer a "grandmother's flower". Today, there are so many beautiful species, hybrid forms and varieties that more and more flower growers want to get it in their collection of indoor plants, especially since growing pelargonium at home is considered simple.

The genus of culture is part of the Geraniaceae family and has almost 250 species. And a fragrant beauty from South Africa and South America came to us.

Pelargonium is not a geranium!

Surprised?

"How so? Everyone has been calling this flower geranium for 100 years, and our grandmothers called it that.”

The fact of the matter is that in the days of our grandmothers' youth, botanists were just beginning the process of classifying plants. Initially, the Geranium family (Geraniaceae) was identified, which included all plants whose fruit looks like a stork/crane beak (in Greek, geranion is a crane). And for all plants there was one name - "geranium".

Then the family was divided into genera, 2 of which are Pelargonium (Pelargonium) and Geranium (Geranium), there are 5 in total. These two genera are fundamentally different from each other.

The Geranium genus is winter-hardy plants that can winter in open ground and grow mainly in Europe. Unlike Pelargonium, they are practically not grown at home. There is a difference in the shape of flowers - in geraniums, the structure of the flower is correct, symmetrical.

Pelargonium has an irregular flower shape - the 2 upper petals are usually slightly larger than the 3 lower ones. They grow in regions where the temperature does not drop below zero, so they will not survive a frosty winter in the open field.

Three popular bands

In general, there are much more main species and varietal groups, about 6-8 (taking into account different methods of classification). But we will describe three that are most often grown indoors:

1. Zonal, garden (Pelargonium zonale)- the most unpretentious (photo 2). Due to low requirements and long flowering times, zonal Pelargoniums have been among the most popular for many years.

The height of the stems of the representatives of the group is 30-60 cm. The flowers are single or collected in umbellate inflorescences in various color variations: white, pink, bright red. There are also different shapes and colors of foliage. Particularly popular in floriculture are decorative leafy hybrids and varieties with variegated foliage of spectacular bright colors.

Popular varieties:

• Mrs. Henry Cox "- light pink flowers and decorative yellow-red-green leaves;
• "Happy Thought" - with red flowers and beige-green foliage.
• "Fancy Leaf" - the main advantage of this variety is the patterned pattern on the foliage in the form of two wide rims of yellow and red-brown hue and a green leaf center.
• "Appleblossom Rosebund" - magnificent white and pink double flowers.

I would especially like to note the tulip-shaped variety of zonal pelargonium and its chic varieties: scarlet and pink "Red Pandora" and "Pink Pandora", "Patricia Andrea", burgundy "Black Pearl".

2. Ampelous (Pelargonium peltatum)- they are also called thyroid or ivy Pelargoniums. By unpretentiousness in second place (photo 3).

Flowers collected in inflorescences of 5-10 pieces develop on long thin peduncles. They can be found in almost any color scheme from white to purple, plain or two-tone, simple or terry. The long hanging stems are quite fragile, their length can reach about a meter. The shape of the leaves is very similar to ivy, hence the name of the group.

The most interesting varieties: "Tenerife Magic", "Sybil Holmes", "Elegante", "Ville de Paris", "Amethyst", "Apricot Queen".

3. Royal Pelargoniums (Pelargonium grandiflorum)- the most chic in the family and the most capricious (photo 4). Other names are home, English, large-flowered.

Group from South Africa, with characteristic, very large inflorescences compared to other members of the genus. They require specific care and constant attention. The color palette can range from white to dark purple, including pink and red.

There are also variegated versions with spots or stripes. The form of flowers is both simple and terry. The stem is rather thick and straight, mostly solitary but branched. The leaves are green, appear alternately, large and pubescent.

Some notable varieties are 'Autumn Festival', 'Ann Hoysted', 'Fabiola', 'Browns Butterfly'.

Conditions for growing Pelargonium at home

Despite the fact that all three groups belong to the same genus, and their growing conditions are similar, each group has its own nuances in care.

Temperature

During the period of growth and flowering, the plant is content with the usual room temperature - 20-25 ° C. The temperature regime during the dormant period should be almost two times lower: for the zonal and ampelous groups - 10-15 ° C, for the royal - 8-12 ° C.

Lowering the temperature in the autumn-winter period is very important for future flowering. If you do not create a cool period in the annual cycle, then the zonal and ampelous Pelargonium will most likely bloom, but not so abundantly. But from the royal, under the same conditions, you can not wait for flowers at all.

Lighting

The brighter the lighting, the more abundant the flowering will be. With a lack of lighting, the stems stretch and become thin, the leaves fade.

In zonal Pelargonium, the first sign of a lack of light is the disappearance of a belt (spot) from the leaves - a zone of a darker color, because of which it is actually called zonal, and decorative leafy varieties become discolored.

Ampelous and zonal can even tolerate some direct sunlight. They are suitable for growing east, west and south (with shading at noon) side.

Royal Pelargonium painfully reacts to direct rays; southern windows will not suit her. On the south side, you can rearrange the pot with representatives of all groups only from mid-autumn to mid-March, when the daylight hours are short and the sun is dim.

Watering Pelargonium and air humidity

The culture tolerates a slight drought more easily (they are drought-resistant) than overflow - constantly wet soil is detrimental to them.

During the period of active growth and flowering, watering is moderate and only after the topsoil has dried by about 1-2 cm. During the dormant period, watering is limited.

If the plant is kept at a low temperature, then water it 2-3 times a month. It is best to water in the morning and always with soft and room temperature water.

Pelargoniums do not require high humidity, so spraying is not needed. Moreover, for zonal and royal spraying is harmful, because. their leaves are slightly hairy and may be stained by water.

top dressing

During the vegetative period, it should be fed 2 times a month with a water-soluble fertilizer for flowering houseplants or Pelargovit. During the dormant period, top dressing is completely excluded.

One little secret - to make the plants bloom more abundantly, fertilize them with magnesium sulfate, especially royal ones. Do not use fresh organic fertilizers - the culture does not tolerate them well. After transplantation, you can fertilize only after a month.

rest period

Winter rest (from October to February) is necessary for all three groups of culture for proper development and good flowering. From October, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering, stop feeding, cut off almost the entire green mass of the plant, and provide a cool temperature.

If it is not possible to create a complete rest for the plant, and in winter you have to keep the pot in a warm room, then the care remains the same. Only fertilizers are excluded.

Trimming and pinching

When growing Pelargonium at home, do not forget about regular pruning, which is carried out annually. Moreover, almost the entire ground part is cut off. Leave 2-5 buds from last year's growth. Often there is only a small stem 5-10 cm high from the ground.

As a rule, shoots are cut in the fall, when the flower is prepared for rest. If winter dormancy is not provided to the plant, then it is pruned in early spring after transplantation.

Do not be afraid to cut a lot, as over time the stems are exposed and the decorative effect of the culture is reduced. Pruning also rejuvenates the plant well and stimulates abundant flowering. After pruning, already regrown young stems are pinched for better branching.

In young specimens, the first pinch should be done over the fifth leaf so that the trunk begins to branch and grows into a lush bush.

Pelargonium transplant

Young plants are transplanted every year in March-April. Old ones - as needed, when the pot has become too small, but fresh soil is sprinkled on them every year.

The substrate must be light, breathable, slightly acidic or neutral. You can take in equal parts: sheet and sod land, sand, peat, a little charcoal.

If this is not possible, then a mixture of universal flower soil with the addition of one part peat and one part coarse sand will do. At the bottom of the pot, as for all indoor flowers, lay out a drainage layer to avoid stagnant water.

The pot itself is chosen narrow, since in a cramped pot the flowering of Pelargonium is more abundant.

reproduction

Pelargonium propagates by seeds and apical cuttings. The second method is more popular; when propagated by seeds, the plant loses its varietal characteristics.

This procedure is carried out in early spring or late summer. The cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots, counting 3-5 leaves (the ampelous group has 1-2 leaves) and making a diagonal cut just below the lowest node.

The bottommost leaf is removed and the cuttings are left to dry for a couple of hours. Before planting, the slices are dipped in Kornevin (root former). Planted in a mixture of 1 part peat and 2 parts sand.

At the time of rooting, dishes with cuttings are kept in a bright place without direct sun. In the first few days, only spray the soil, then proceed to careful watering.

Rooting occurs after 2-3 weeks, after which the cuttings are planted one at a time (ampel can be 2 cuttings each) in separate small pots. The tops of the cuttings are pinched to form lush bushes. Spring cuttings of the zonal and ampelous groups bloom at the end of summer.

Royal Pelargoniums take root more difficult than other groups and bloom only in the second or third year.

Plant cuttings form roots well in water, which must be changed frequently.

Secrets of flowering

• Timely remove faded flowers and yellowed leaves
• Plant in narrow pots
• Fertilize regularly with magnesium sulfate
• Keep cool in winter

Representatives of the zonal group bloom from early spring to late autumn - they have the longest flowering period. Ampelous bloom, as a rule, in late spring and fade in September. The royal flowering period is 3-4 months.

Why do pelargonium leaves turn yellow?

In most cases, yellowing of leaves in pelargonium is caused by care errors such as excess or lack of watering, too low or high room temperature, sudden temperature changes, drafts.

Sometimes yellowing leaves can indicate a lack of nutrients. The slow growth of the plant, the yellow-green color of the leaf plates and the gradual dying of the old lower leaves are symptoms of a lack of top dressing. Yellowish foliage with green veins appears with a deficiency of manganese, magnesium or iron, but most often with a lack of potassium.

Other causes of yellowing of leaves in pelargonium are various types of disease and pest damage.

Pests and diseases of Pelargonium

The culture is susceptible to pests and diseases, which in most cases develop as a result of improper plant care.

A common fungal disease in pelargonium is gray mold, which is caused by the pathogen Botrytis cinerea. This fungus grows rapidly in conditions of low temperatures, high humidity with poor air circulation, overflow.

The first signs of gray mold appear as small, watery spots on the leaves and flowers, which quickly darken, increase in size, and become covered with a gray bloom. The spores of the fungus spread very quickly. Flowers and buds fall off.

A dangerous disease of the cuttings and root system of pelargonium is the black leg caused by the pathogenic fungus Pythium ultimum, P. splendens.

The infection manifests itself in the blackening of the base of the stem and roots. Infected cuttings or young plants die.

Removing infected plant parts, treating with a fungicide, placing the pot in full sun, and reducing watering and humidity can reduce the spread of this disease.

Powdery mildew in the form of a whitish coating on the leaves develops in conditions of high humidity in the room, lack of lighting and poor air circulation.

Various stem and root rots affect the crop in poorly drained soil or overflow. The control is carried out through the prevention of the disease, since there is practically no cure, and infected plants die.

Pelargonium disease caused by the fungus Xanthomonas hortorum pv. Pelargonii appears as small circular and irregular dark green spots on the foliage that gradually enlarge and darken. Leaves partially or completely die.

A number of diseases are caused by viruses. Vegetative propagation significantly increases the risk of the spread of viral diseases that adversely affect the development of the crop. Thirteen types of viruses have been discovered and described, the symptoms of which appear mainly in the cool season.

Signs of a viral disease are most often manifested in a change in the shape and color of leaves and flowers. The yellow spot virus in infected pelargoniums leads to the appearance of chlorosis spots, the leaf tissue subsequently dies. Affected leaves are perforated, concave, and curved, resembling pest damage.

Plant growth stops, internodes are reduced. Flowers develop tiny, misshapen, later variegated. Symptoms only occur in winter and early spring when temperatures are cooler. The virus is transmitted by cuttings, plant sap, it is carried by aphids.

Ringspot virus is yellow-green spots or rings on older leaves from autumn to spring. Due to severe infection, the leaves turn yellowish prematurely and die, flower growth slows down. The virus is spread by pests.

Edema can be a problem for Ivy Pelargonium. It manifests itself as watery bumps on the leaves, the cause is not pathogens, but excess water in the soil. Some varieties are more resistant to edema than others.

Pelargonium is rarely affected by pests due to its specific leaf odor. But still, whiteflies and aphids can sometimes cause inconvenience. You can get rid of them by treating with a product that contains permethrin.

Since pelargonium flowers are sensitive to chemical sprays, it is best to use natural pest control methods during the flowering period. Horticultural soaps and oil sprays are effective insecticides that leave no toxic residue. Mix 2 tablespoons of liquid soap in 1 liter of water and spray on the plant.

Pelargonium is a herbaceous plant from the Geraniaceae family. Its homeland is India and South Africa, but for several centuries this flower has been grown in our country as an indoor flower. It is also called geranium, kalachik and crail. However, geranium and pelargonium are still different plants. The first is a powerful frost-resistant perennial. The second is a tender, thermophilic baby. From the slightest contact, a specific smell spreads. To some, he seems harsh and unpleasant, while others simply admire him. It is also believed that pelargonium in the house improves the microclimate, and makes family relationships warmer.

Appearance

Pelargonium is an evergreen perennial. Its strong grassy shoots branch strongly and form a semi-shrub. They are quite meaty. There are varieties with erect or decumbent stems. They quickly increase in size. In just a year, a flower can grow by 20-30 cm. The average height of indoor plants is 60-90 cm, it is achieved by regular pruning and rejuvenation.

Pelargonium leaves are petiolate, they grow alternately. The surface of the leaf is bare, shiny or pubescent. The color is dominated by green, there are species with variegated leaves. The shape of the leaf plates are rounded, heart-shaped or palmate. The relief of radial veins is visible on the surface.

At home, the flowering of pelargonium can last almost a whole year, but most often it happens from May to September. In the axils of the leaves and on the tops of the shoots, a rather long, bare peduncle grows. It bears an umbrella, almost spherical inflorescence. Flowers on short stalks are located close to each other. They are painted in various shades of red, white and yellow. The shape of the corolla depends on the variety. Most often it consists of 5 petals, which differ in size.

After pollination, fruits ripen - seed boxes. The fully ripe fruit opens at the bottom like a crane's beak. Actually, the name "pelargonium" comes from the word "crane".

Types of pelargonium

In total, there are more than 250 plant species in the genus Pelargonium. Moreover, botanists from different countries continue to argue about the classification. Among cultivated species, there are only 6, but the number of ornamental varieties is simply huge.

Pelargonium is zonal. The species was most widespread and cultivated one of the first. It includes more than 75,000 varieties. A plant with branched, fleshy shoots and dense, rounded leaves grows quite quickly. There is a lighter spot (zone) on the leaf plate in the central part. It is surrounded by a bright border. Flowering is very abundant. Up to a dozen large umbrellas with bright colors can appear at the same time. The foliage exudes a specific aroma. Varieties are divided into thematic groups:

Shrub with branched, short shoots covered with petiolate round or heart-shaped foliage. The width of the leaves reaches 5 cm. They have uneven, as if torn, edges and are covered with a short pile. The leaves exude an intense pleasant aroma. Depending on the variety, it contains notes of rose, pineapple, pine needles, apple, peach, etc. In May-September, multi-flowered round umbrellas bloom with small pink or white flowers, but they attract little attention.

Creeping shoots grow 25-100 cm in length. They are covered with smooth, angular leaves, like those of ivy. Depending on the variety, the flowers are double or simple. They are collected in dense inflorescences. The popular variety green eyes - semi-double or double flowers of white-violet color in the center have a green eye.

Very beautiful, but capricious plant. It is distinguished by its large size and powerful branched shoots. The dense crown is up to 50 cm high. The serrated wide foliage is similar to maple. Large flowers with corrugated petals grow 4-7 cm wide. The color is dominated by purple, pink, scarlet colors. Petals are always colorful. Plants definitely need a dormant period. Flowering lasts no more than 4 months.

Pelargonium grandiflora (large-flowered). Branched shrub up to 1 m in height, covered with lobed or dissected leaves on long petioles. Foliage glabrous or slightly pubescent. Each peduncle carries 1-3 flowers with a diameter of 3-4 cm. Red strokes are located on the white petals. Flowers bloom in April-June.

The species was obtained as a result of interspecific selection. It is distinguished by smaller (1-2 cm in diameter) foliage and creeping shoots. The plant is less capricious and grows quickly. It produces simple asymmetrical flowers with larger upper petals. 'the mole' produces upright, branched stems covered in light green foliage. The tops are decorated with few-flowered inflorescences with white and burgundy petals.

Reproduction methods

At home, pelargonium is propagated by cuttings and seeds. The vegetative method is used more often, since it is as simple as possible and retains the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. Most pelargoniums need regular pruning, so cutting material is easy to obtain. Usually take sprouts 2-15 cm long with 1-2 nodes. The cut is made perpendicular with a sharp blade at a distance of 5 mm from the node. If there are flowers, they are removed to reduce nutrient consumption. Large leaf plates are cut in half. It is convenient to root cuttings in water, and when roots appear, plant them in loose, fertile soil. You can immediately identify the sprouts in pots with moist, but not wet peat. For zonal pelargonium, a temperature of + 20 ... + 25 ° C is maintained. Angels, kings and ivies need to be kept at +18°C. The rooting process takes from 2 weeks (zonal) to 3 months (royal). The first flowering may occur within six months.

To grow pelargonium from seeds, you must first prepare the planting material. Seeds with a dense skin are scarified. Then they are placed in a damp cloth for a day. Crops are produced in shallow pots with a mixture of perlite and peat to a depth of 3-5 mm. They are sprayed with water and covered with a film. During the germination period, the temperature is maintained at +21…+23°C. Shoots appear in 10-15 days. After that, the shelter is removed and the container is transferred to a room with diffused bright light. When 2-3 leaves appear on the seedlings, they dive into separate pots. Young specimens need brighter lighting, so they use backlighting.

Home Care

Pelargoniums, with the exception of the royal one, are unpretentious plants, but all of them should find a comfortable place and periodically pay attention.

Lighting. The plant needs long daylight hours and bright light. Direct sunlight will not hurt. In winter, it is recommended to use a backlight so that the stems do not stretch.

Temperature. Pelargoniums will be comfortable at a temperature of + 25 ° C. In summer, it is advisable to take the flower to the balcony or veranda. In winter, it is recommended to provide a cool content (+12…+14°C). This stimulates the laying of flower buds.

Humidity. The plant easily adapts to normal indoor humidity. Only sometimes during the heating season, the tips of the leaves can dry out. For prevention, the crown is sprayed from a spray bottle. Try to keep the water from collecting in drops.

Watering. Pelargonium is relatively drought-resistant, so it is necessary to let the earth dry by a third. Excess water should be removed.

Fertilizer. With sufficiently fertile soil, regular top dressing is not needed. It is enough to apply fertilizer 1-2 times with a frequency of 2-3 weeks during the budding and flowering period. It is recommended to use mineral complexes with a high content of phosphorus. Organic is undesirable.

Pruning. All pelargoniums tend to stretch out, so the plants are cut off periodically, leaving 2-4 knots from the ground. Also carry out pruning of yellowed and dry leaves. In this case, the base of the petiole is left on the stem.

Transfer. Plants are transplanted every 1-3 years. The procedure is carried out in spring or summer. The pot should be medium sized, not too big, but stable. A thick layer of drainage material is poured at the bottom. Sand, peat, turf and leaf soil are added to the soil mixture in equal amounts.

The homeland of this plant is very far from here, in the Cape. The rocks of the Cape of Good Hope in August light up with bonfires of its bright red flowers. Herbivores bypass fragrant thickets, and people from local tribes, on the contrary, willingly dig healing roots and collect foliage. Geranium, a plant native to South Africa, has long since become its own in Russia. And even turned into a symbol of unhurried petty-bourgeois life.

Types and varieties of pelargoniums

Genus Pelargonium ( Pelargonium) belongs to the order Geraniaceae, family Geraniaceae. In southern Africa, there are up to 180 representatives of this odorous genus. Less than a dozen have taken root in the apartments:

• geranium zonal- a textbook example from Soviet textbooks of botany. It is found most often in houses, has a leaf with a crenate edge and bright, often red, white or pink flowers;

• fragrant geranium- has dissected light silver leaves with a very pleasant smell of citrus and mint. The flowers are small. The view is remarkable in that it is possible to breed varieties with the smell of both lilac or rose, and nutmeg, and even pepper. Bred for the needs of the perfume industry.

• royal, large-flowered geranium (P. grandiflora) - is distinguished by huge pom-poms of flowers. Leaves with teeth along the edges;

• ivy pelargonium- the collective name of ampelous species. Popular in Europe, used for garden arches and other flowering structures. Even more thermophilic than zonal;
• pelargonium-angel(Angel's Eyes) is a stunted hybrid of domestic geranium with wild African. Its flowers are like violets;

• pelargonium-unique- a hybrid of fragrant geranium and royal. Differs in strong aroma of leaves and large flowers;
• pelargonium-succulents are not yet common, but are valuable material for, for example, alpine slides. They began to cultivate relatively recently.

Pelargonium received the common name "geranium" from its fellow member of the Geranium family - Geraniumsilvaticum. A real, forest geranium is a frost-resistant perennial, an inhabitant of the forests of the middle belt and the taiga zone. And the southerner pelargonium freezes even in Tajikistan.

The appearance of a room (garden, zonal) geranium is a branched shrub. The plant is perennial, but more often cultivated as an annual, because the shoots of the current year bloom more abundantly.

The root system of pelargonium is fibrous, compact. Well developed and adapted to dry conditions.

The leaves are characteristically round in shape, with a darker reddish ring-shaped area. The venation is palmate. There are varieties with a white border on the leaves (for example, Madama Butterfly), they were popular in the 60s and were called "whitefly". Leaves can be completely purple in color.

The geranium inflorescence is an umbrella, its appearance is well known. Various varieties have both simple and dissected, or double flowers. The diameter of the flower is about 2 cm, and the entire inflorescence reaches 15 cm in diameter, and in the royal pelargonium - up to 20 cm. The main gamut of geranium colors is in the red spectrum, from maroon to white. Varieties with purple and lilac flowers have been bred. There are no yellow shades so far.

Boxes with ripening seeds resemble the head of a stork, hence the name of the genus - pelargonium, translated from Greek - "similar to a stork". In old Russian books on home economics, geranium was called "crane", or "crane nose".

Ripe fruits have a spirally twisted bundle that reacts to changes in humidity and temperature, unwinding and twisting like a spring. With the help of this tourniquet, geranium seeds are buried in the soil. In old textbooks on natural history, you can find a way to make a barometer from a geranium seed.

Pelargonium Care

Even a five-year-old toddler is able to take care of geraniums, the plant is so unpretentious.

Light Pelargonium loves. The best place for her is the southern windows. Only hardened plants endure direct sunlight, taken out of partial shade to direct rays, geraniums will get burned. Northern or tree-shaded windows are not for geraniums, the flower stretches in length and loses its aesthetic qualities, and also loses its immunity.

Temperature the one that is usually observed in our premises is suitable, i.e. room. The plant is not sensitive to overheating, but prolonged cooling below + 10 ° C will lead to reddening and shedding of leaves. It is noticed that the varieties with red flowers are the least cold-resistant, as they are closest to natural forms. For the winter, geraniums are transferred to dormant mode, transferred to a room with a temperature of 8-10 ° C, and reducing watering to low moisture.

Geranium is one of the few plants that easily tolerate drafts. The homeland of pelargoniums - the Cape of Good Hope - is famous for its winds, and the hardening of the plant is in the genes. Fresh air has a very good effect on flowering, so it is advisable to take geraniums to the balcony or garden for the summer.

Humidity need moderate. The plant tolerates drought more easily than waterlogging. Geranium categorically does not tolerate spraying, it can shed leaves and flowers. It is necessary to water the flower with the expectation that the soil in the pot has time to dry out two centimeters deep. Drainage is a prerequisite for the well-being of the plant, stagnant water will immediately provoke rotting of the stem.

The soil- light, neutral, with the addition of sand 1:10. Peat in the substrate is undesirable, as it accumulates moisture. Ordinary soddy land, or a mixture of leafy and humus soil, is quite suitable for geraniums. Pelargonium can successfully grow right on the beds, where it reaches a decent size. So that the growth energy does not go into the leaf mass, it is advisable not to plant the plant in open ground, but to use boxes, flowerpots and other containers.

Vessel for pelargonium, you can take almost any. Often, for design purposes, geraniums are placed in old copper teapots, or hanging planters of a variety of materials. Most flowers will be if you plant geraniums in a not very spacious vessel made of natural material - wood or clay. If the capacity is large, then several geraniums will look beautiful. They do not compete with each other at all, and bloom profusely, forming a picturesque group.

Transplant and pruning produced at the same time. It is best to do these manipulations when the day noticeably goes to profit, i.e. in February. Transplanted into a container, the same in volume, or a little more. In most cases, it is enough to replace the top layer of the earth. The plant is buried in the soil by 1-2 centimeters to stimulate the development of additional roots.

Cut off the main trunk, leaving three or four buds. Subsequently, young shoots will develop from them, which should also be pinched to give the plant a compact appearance. Geranium easily tolerates all operations for the formation of a bush. Abandoned old branches may not bloom at all, or bloom poorly. The resulting cuttings can be used as planting material.

Fertilizer the entire active period must be entered. From the very beginning of the growing season, it is advisable to slightly increase the dose of potassium so that flower buds start in the right amount. Then use standard complexes for flowering plants, in accordance with the norms on the package.

reproduction Pelargoniums are most easily produced by green cuttings. The thickest and most beautiful cuttings are chosen and rooted in a mini-greenhouse, and in the spring - even just in a glass of water. Roots appear after 2 weeks, and even faster with the use of a Kornevin-type stimulant. A plant grown from a February cutting blooms by the beginning of summer.

Seeds are a slower, but in their own way effective method of propagating geraniums. High-quality, large seeds germinate together, and seedlings are distinguished by great vitality. Pelargonium from seeds has a more compact bush and can produce flowers of an original, unpredictable color, with varying degrees of doubleness. Pelargoniums grown from seeds are more resistant to frost, they tolerate a short-term drop in temperature to -4 o C.

Geranium as a landscape plant no less popular than in indoor breeding. In the middle lane, it is not recommended to leave it in the garden for the winter - the flower will freeze. In more southern regions, you can cut the trunk almost to the ground, cover it with sawdust and close it with agril until spring.

Diseases and pests

Geranium is known for its immunity. An aqueous infusion of its leaves is used to remove all kinds from other plants.

Pests attack only weakened pelargonium, which is not able to produce the right amount of fragrant essential oils. Measures to improve the conditions for the plant will work better than any insecticide. But as support, you can use drugs (Intavir or analogues). You should not allow the geranium to stand sprayed for a long time, you need to dry it as quickly as possible.

At the dawn of the Soviet era, plant grafting was widely introduced, thanks to the work of I. V. Michurin. Young Michurints studied just on the zonal geranium. And now it is quite possible to create a “Michurinskaya” geranium, where inflorescences of various shapes and colors will flaunt on one bush. To do this, it is enough to cut the trunk and stalk of the same diameter obliquely, combine the cuts, and wrap them neatly with electrical tape or tape. The bandage is removed after 2-3 weeks.

The benefits of geranium

It is not for nothing that homemade geranium is called the “grandmother's flower” - its essential oils gently even out the high blood pressure that many older people suffer from. It is enough to grind and smell one or two leaves of geranium to feel relief.

Fragrant pelargoniums are characterized by the presence on the upper and sometimes lower side of the leaf blades of glands filled with essential oil. Sometimes there are glands on the stems of plants. When touched or rubbed, the leaves of these pelargoniums spread an aroma similar to the aromas of rose, apple, lemon, orange, pineapple, peach, mint, lavender, verbena, wormwood, pine, juniper, cedar, almond, coconut, nutmeg, caramel, cinnamon, and sometimes have complex, difficult to describe odors. The flowers of these pelargoniums are inferior in beauty to many species and hybrid pelargoniums - they are usually small and dimly colored (white, pink or pale lilac), but some blooms are very elegant due to the abundance of small flowers. Some pelargoniums almost never bloom on window sills and are grown solely for the sake of fragrant foliage.

Currently, the original fragrant species are included in the group Species, or wild pelargoniums (Pelargonium Species), and this group of pelargoniums with fragrant leaves (Scented Leaved Pelargoniums) combined the garden forms, varieties and hybrids obtained from them.

Read about the modern classification of pelargoniums on the page Pelargonium.

Most of these are bushy plants with small simple flowers, although there are varieties with large bright flowers and lush inflorescences. The leaves vary in different varieties in size and shape. The aroma of foliage in hybrids can be radically different from the original species, and sometimes it is completely lost, so the process of obtaining new hybrids of fragrant pelargoniums is not so simple.

The main ancestors of this group are fragrant pelargonium (Pelargonium graveolens), fragrant pelargonium (Pelargnium odoratissimum), curly pelargonium (Pelargonium crispum), pink pelargonium (Pelargonium radens), Oakleaf Pelargonium (Pelargonium quercifolium), capitate pelargonium (Pelargonium capitatum), felted pelargonium (Pelargonium tomentosum), as well as odorous pelargonium (Pelargonium fragrans), whose existence as a species is currently questioned - it is assumed that it is a hybrid P. exstipulatum and P. odoratissimum.

More rare types of pelargoniums with fragrant foliage:

Pelargonium birch-leaved (Pelargonium betulinum)- with a spicy aroma;
. Pelargonium vine (Pelargonium vitifolium)- with the smell of lemon balm;
. pelargonium geranium (Pelargonium panduriforme)- with geranium aroma;
. Pelargonium dichondrofolia (Pelargonium dichondraefolium)- with the smell of black pepper;
. Pelargonium sticky (Pelargonium glutinosum)- with the smell of lemon balm;
. pelargonium klobuchkovy (Pelargonium cucullatum)- with lemon aroma;
. gooseberry pelargonium (Pelargonium grossularioides)- with lemon aroma;
. melissa pelargonium (Pelargonium mellisimum)- with sweet-lemon aroma;
. small-flowered pelargonium (Pelargonium parviflorum)- with the smell of coconut;
. pelargonium hairy (Pelargonium hirtum)- with a spicy aroma;
. sickle-leaved pelargonium (Pelargonium crithmifolium)- with the aroma of ginger and nutmeg;
. Pelargonium rough (Pelargonium scabrum)- with the smell of lemon;
. pelargonium rough (Pelargonium x asperum)
. Pelargonium abrotanifolium- with a spicy aroma;
. Pelargonium hypoleucum.

Description of fragrant species pelargoniums - in the article Species pelargoniums (Species Pelargoniums).

Varieties of fragrant pelargoniums

• Pelargonium felt P. tomentosum Chocolate Mint(syn. Chocolate Peppermint) - undersized, up to 30 cm tall, with slightly hanging shoots. The leaves are medium to large, deeply lobed, soft, velvety, with a chocolate-brown spot in the center, smell of mint. The flowers are pale pink, with purple feathers on the upper petals.
• Pelargonium capitate P.capitatum Attar of Roses- up to 45 cm tall, with large three-lobed leaves with a strong aroma of roses. The flowers are lilac-pink, with a burgundy throat.

• Pelargonium curly P. crispum Cy's Sunburst- has a small lemon-scented corrugated variegated foliage - green with a thin golden edging. The flowers are pink.

• Pelargonium oak-leaved P. quercifolium Giant Oak- with very large, lobed leaves with a balsamic scent.
• Pelargonium pink P. radens Red Flowered Rose- openwork pelargonium with grayish-green finger-dissected foliage (for which it is called Crow's feet) and abundant red-pink (brighter than the main species) flowers. Very drought tolerant.

• Pelargonium pink P. radens Radula- leaves are less finely indented than the main species (P. radens), with a less intense aroma. The flowers are small, lilac-pink.

Graveolens Group

Varieties of fragrant pelargonium (P. graveolens).

• Camphor Rose- vertically growing, up to 45 cm tall, with deeply cut leaves with a strong aroma of camphor and mint. The flowers are purple-pink.
• Lady Plymouth- a very popular variety, 45-60 cm tall, leaves with a thin white ossification, with an aroma of eucalyptus. Inflorescences of lavender-pink flowers appear in summer.

• Both's Snowflake- vertically growing, 30-60 cm tall and wide, with deeply cut leaves, sparkling due to irregular creamy variegation, with a rose scent.

• Variegata- up to 60 cm, with pink flowers and variegated white-green leaves with mint and rose aroma.

Fragrans Group

Varieties of odorous pelargonium (Pelargonium fragrans).

• Fragrans Variegatum- shrub up to 15 cm tall, often with reddish stems, leaves velvety, three-lobed, blunt-toothed along the edge, light green, with a chartreuse border, with a spicy aroma. The flowers are white, collected in inflorescences of 4-8, the two upper petals with small red stripes.
• Lilian Pottinger- 25-30 cm tall and 12-16 cm wide, leaves are gray-green, irregularly three-lobed, serrated along the edge, with a complex aroma of camphor and pine. Forms many white flowers in summer with small red marks on the upper petals.
• Ardwick Cinnamon- with small velvety dull green foliage with a cinnamon scent and white flowers with crimson marks on the upper petals.

Pelargonium varieties with fragrant leaves

Basically, varieties of hybrid origin are presented here.

• Brunswick- up to 60 cm tall and 45 cm wide, the leaves are large, dark green, deeply cut into pointed lobes, with a pungent odor. It has spectacular inflorescences of large pink flowers. Blooms in summer.
• Citronella- leaves are dark green, many-parted, with a powerful citrus aroma (citronella). During the flowering period, it is covered with many small bright pink flowers.

• Charity- compact pelargonium up to 30 cm tall with palmate-lobed, soft-hairy, light green leaves with a wide uneven golden edging. They have a powerful aroma of lemon with hints of rose. The flowers are small, white-pink, with crimson markings on the upper petals, collected in inflorescences of 5-7.
• Copthorne- 45-60 cm high and often the same width, with powerful dark green leaves with large lobes, with a very strong sweet smell, reminiscent of cedar. It blooms for a long time with spectacular purple-pink flowers with wine-red veins and spots on the upper petals.

• Eument- with strongly dissected, like a pink pelargonium (P. radens) leaves with a strong smell of menthol.
  
• Galway Star- a small dense pelargonium, the leaves are deeply incised, serrated along the edge, corrugated, green, with a cream border, have a strong lemon aroma. The flowers are pale lilac, with bright magenta marks on the upper petals.

• Gemstone- upright bushy variety 45-60 cm tall, with rough lobed leaves with a bright lemon aroma. It blooms for a long time with spectacular pink-red inflorescences.
• Grace Thomas- a large and dense upright variety up to 90 cm tall, with large, deeply dissected, serrated leaves, with a smell of lemon and lime and a sweet raspberry hue. The flowers are white to pale pink, with crimson spots and veins.

• Hansen's Wild Spice- slender plant up to 45 cm tall and wide. Without pruning, it gives semi-drooping stems. The leaves are beautiful, hairless, serrated, with a strong aroma of citrus and spices. The flowers are quite large, come in different shades of pink, with darker markings on the upper petals.

• Joy Lucille- 45-60 cm high, with large velvety cut leaves with a menthol-mint aroma, and pale pink flowers with purple feathers on the upper petals.
• Lara Jester- up to 40 cm tall, the leaves are large, strongly dissected, with a lemon aroma. The flowers are quite large, the petals are pink-lilac, with paler edges and a white base. The upper petals have purple veins.

• Lemon Kiss- lush vertically growing pelargonium up to 40 cm tall and 20 cm wide. Foliage resembles curly pelargonium (Pelargonium crispum). The leaves are medium in size, rough, textured, serrated. It is considered the best variety with lemon aroma of foliage. The flowers are small, lavender, with deep carmine plumes on the upper petals.
• Mabel Gray- a wide bush 30-35 cm tall, with two-color serrated leaves in the form of a maple leaf, medium and large sizes, with the aroma of lemon verbena. The flowers are pale pink to light purple, the upper petals are marbled with plum-colored feathers. One of the most fragrant pelargoniums. Discovered in Kenya in 1960. Sometimes appears under the name P. citronellum Mabel Gray.

• Orsett- a large bushy upright plant up to 75 cm tall, with lobed green leaves with purple-brown spots in the center, with a piquant but pleasant aroma. The flowers are large, mauve, with darker markings on the upper petals. Blooms for a very long time.

• Paton's Unique- also belongs to the Unique group. 60-65 cm tall and up to 20 cm wide, sharply scented leaves, showy inflorescences of coral red and pale pink flowers with small white eyes.
• Phyllis- also belongs to the Unique group, a very beautiful variegated sport from the Paton's Unique variety. The leaves are deeply incised, green, with creamy-cream edges, fragrant. The flowers are bright pink, luminous, with a white eye and dark feathers on the upper petals.

About the unique group - in the article Pelargoniums royal, angels and uniques.

• Round Leaf Rose- 60-90 cm high, with rounded, indistinctly lobed, velvety, textured, crinkled leaves with a bronze spot in the center, with a fresh orange aroma. The flowers are pink, with light spots and purple veins on the upper petals.
• Shottesham Red syn. Concolor Lace- up to 60 cm high and wide. Compact pyramidal plant with very beautiful velvety corrugated light green leaves. The aroma of the leaves is sweetly pungent, with slight hints of hazelnut. It blooms from spring to autumn with inflorescences of lilac-red, rare colors, flowers, with darker feathers on the upper petals, the three lower petals are lighter.

Photo: Rita Brilliantova, Nina Starostenko