Greenhouse with deepening into the ground with your own hands. Underground thermos greenhouse - the principle of operation and construction with your own hands

At a depth of more than 1.5-2 meters, the soil retains a temperature of 10-15 ° C even in areas with a harsh climate. If the greenhouse is underground at this level, then it is much easier to maintain a comfortable temperature for plants, and freezing of the roots is excluded. A well-arranged greenhouse, as shown by pre-revolutionary practice, makes it possible to grow year-round even pineapples and citrus fruits.

7 advantages of a greenhouse in the ground

Always positive ground temperature.
Minor daily and seasonal fluctuations in temperature.
Year-round operation at minimal cost.
Ability to grow subtropical crops.
It is easy to clear snow from a low roof.
Excellent solar heat storage.

Disadvantages of underground greenhouses

More complex and expensive device.
The impossibility of construction in areas with a high level of groundwater.
The width limit is 5 m.

Underground greenhouse construction

By design, a greenhouse in the ground can be of a trench or tape type. Under the trench, a pit is dug according to the type of pool; for tape, a narrow long trench is needed. The length of underground greenhouses is not limited.

Depth of the greenhouse in the ground

The best option is 1.5-2.2 m below ground level. But at the same time, the position of the lower part of the greenhouse must necessarily satisfy two conditions at once:

Be below the freezing level of the soil.
be above the groundwater level.

Orientation and location of the greenhouse

Ideally, if the site has a southern slope into which you can fit a greenhouse. Otherwise, it is placed on a flat area, orienting its long side along the east-west line. You can also attach greenhouses to houses and other buildings. It is especially beneficial to attach to stone facades, which better accumulate and retain heat.

Underground greenhouse design

The best underground greenhouse design is shown in the figure below. A south-facing shed roof will allow the greenhouse to be heated in the best way during the day. The door is located on one of the end sides, a ladder of any convenient type is arranged for it.

Construction stages

Marking the site for the pit. The pit should be wider than the greenhouse, so that it is convenient to make waterproofing. The length is chosen taking into account the fact that there is a vestibule on the side of the door, into which you can go down the stairs, and there is also a place for opening the door.
Digging a trench or pit. The work is laborious; for a large greenhouse, it is better to rent an earthmoving excavator. The top layer of fertile soil is poured separately, it can then be used for planting in a greenhouse.
Reinforced concrete strip foundation.
Construction of walls from block materials. It is better to use thermal blocks or hollow bricks. From the south wall, the wall is made shorter, taking into account the slope of the roof. It is optimal if the slope angle corresponds to 90 ° to the sun's rays during the winter solstice. This way you will get the maximum amount of heat.
Foundation and wall waterproofing.
Backfilling the soil on the north side, if the shed greenhouse is arranged on a flat area. You can make the roof arched with straight walls of the same height.
Backfilling on the bottom of crushed stone, on top - fertile soil.
Installation of the roof frame and vents (or lifting/sliding roof).
Roof glazing or polycarbonate coating (preferred). Since underground greenhouses are usually used year-round, it is better to choose polycarbonate with a thickness of at least 6 mm.
Warming of the walls of the greenhouse. It is advisable to strengthen the foil material on top of the usual insulation on the inside of the greenhouse, which will serve as an additional insulating and reflective layer that helps to accumulate more solar heat.
Drainage device. Drainage grooves are dug along the entire perimeter of the greenhouse and form the drainage of rain and melt water. If the device for effective drainage is difficult, a pump pumping water is installed in the greenhouse.

Note. In areas with hard ground, earthen walls can be left, but special attention should be paid to good drainage.

Underground greenhouse engineering systems

Ventilation

Irrigation, heating and ventilation schemes are selected in accordance with the cultivated crops. Particular attention is paid to effective ventilation. You can use automatic window opening systems that respond to changes in the internal temperature.

Watering greenhouse beds underground

The advantage of underground greenhouses is the close occurrence of groundwater. Therefore, the well device will be easier in the greenhouse. The simplest column will allow you to get the right amount of water right next to the beds for manual irrigation or to fill a barrel for a drip irrigation system. For convenience, it is easier to equip automatic watering.

Underground greenhouse heating

Due to the higher temperature inside the greenhouse, heating costs will be significantly lower, and not particularly whimsical plants at floor level can grow without additional heating, if not all year round, then most of it.

Heating is possible of any type. For intense heat accumulation inside the underground greenhouse, you can use sandbags along the walls, tanks or water bottles, dark stones on the floor.

Greenhouse lighting

Since light only enters through the roof, it is darker inside underground greenhouses and more intensive lighting is required for plants. It is advisable to select lamps specifically for plants or ordinary ones, choosing a glow spectrum close to the sun.

Despite the high costs of building such greenhouses, they quickly pay off due to year-round use and reduced heating costs.

One of the most rational options for the construction of a capital greenhouse is an underground greenhouse. It is built like a thermos and has a lot of advantages. In order for the building to have all the advantages, it is necessary to know the features of its construction.

Do-it-yourself underground greenhouses have the following advantages of their construction:

year-round design option;
no dependence on the weather;
high efficiency;
efficient use of solar energy (used for additional heating of the building);
in such a design, even exotic crops for a particular locality can be grown;
durability and reliability;
excellent light transmission parameters of the roof;
good thermal insulation performance of the room;
versatility.

A greenhouse in the ground has these advantages, both without heating and with it.

A ruined type of greenhouse has only two negative points: a rather high labor intensity of manufacture, as well as the need for a reliable ventilation system in the construction. But if you approach the work correctly, then these design flaws will not bring much trouble.

Video "Dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening"

In this video you will learn how to build a dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening.

Design features

An underground greenhouse is a structure that is partially organized in the ground. Thanks to this design, a thermos effect occurs. It manifests itself if the greenhouse was buried at least 1 m into the ground. In this case, the temperature indicator inside such a dugout will be in the range of + 3 ... + 14 ° C.

If the building is deepened by 2.2–2.4 m, then during the year the temperature inside will be kept at almost the same level. At the same time, the main task in such buildings is to maintain the temperature indicator and organize irrigation.

If you are going to make an underground greenhouse, then you need to correctly calculate the level of penetration into the ground. This parameter is determined based on the depth of groundwater, as well as winter freezing. Based on these parameters, one can easily understand whether this type of greenhouse is rational. In swampy areas, as well as with a close occurrence of groundwater, an in-depth version of greenhouses is not used.

It should be noted that the soil freezing factor has the main influence on the cultivation of plants. The beds with crops in such structures should be located below the level of seasonal freezing existing in the region. Therefore, the lower level of the deepening should be between the indicator of groundwater occurrence and soil freezing.

To date, there are two types of earthen greenhouse:

underground. In this case, a depth is selected that allows maintenance of plant beds completely underground. Inside the greenhouse, there should be a ladder at the entrance wall, as well as passages between areas (where a certain group of plants is grown), along which a person can move without bending;
buried. Here, the maintenance of the structure is carried out without a ladder, from the soil surface. This lifts the roof.

Depending on the characteristics of the relief and the available area, a do-it-yourself greenhouse underground can be horizontal (the height of all walls is the same) and inclined. Such greenhouses, according to the area occupied, are trench (considerable length with a minimum width) or pit.

A greenhouse in the ground can be used to grow fruits, berries, mushrooms, vegetables, seedlings and flowers. Due to the design features, such a greenhouse can be placed in Siberia or in any other region of our country.

How to DIY

A do-it-yourself recessed greenhouse is built in several stages. To build it, you will need the following tools:

perforator;
hammer;
Bulgarian;
shovel;
construction mixer and vibrator for concrete;
electric drill;
hacksaw, knife and scissors;
Master OK;
putty knife;
paint brush;
level, plumb and tape measure.

The Scottish (buried) type of greenhouse is started by digging a foundation pit.

foundation pit

To create a greenhouse effect inside the greenhouse, the depth of the pit should be 1.9–2.2 (2.5) m. The width of the structure should not be more than 4.8–5.2 m. If you organize the structure wide, then the insolation parameters will deteriorate and the need for heating will also increase.

The length is determined depending on the free area available on the site for construction. How much space you allocate for a greenhouse, this will be its length.

The pit being erected is recommended to be oriented in the east-west direction. The sides of the pit should be leveled as much as possible. This is necessary to make high-quality walls. Each side of the building must be properly aligned so that there are no problems with the organization of the roof.

Foundation and walls

When you have dug a foundation pit for your greenhouse, you can proceed to the foundation bay. Usually the base is poured around the perimeter of the structure and looks like a tape. When creating a foundation of this type, reinforced concrete should be used. The optimal thickness of the base is 30–50 cm (depending on the size of the greenhouse). As a result, the floor in the center of the building remains earthen.

The side walls can be built from wood, polystyrene foam blocks or cellular concrete blocks. These materials have excellent thermal insulation parameters and are light in weight.

If gardening is year-round, then the level of the walls must be chosen so that they rise above the snow cover by at least 0.5 m. The optimal height of the walls for such structures is determined individually for each region.

Roof installation

To make a roof in a recessed greenhouse, it is necessary to install supports in the center of the building. Wooden beams will be laid on them and the walls. A ridge beam should be installed in the center of the building. After that, transverse ribs are mounted from the bars. On the resulting frame, honeycomb-type polycarbonate sheets are installed.

The covering material is fixed on the beams with the help of special thermal washers equipped with rubber seals. During installation, the hand must be firm, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. To improve the thermal insulation of a greenhouse in cold regions, the roof should be organized from two layers of polycarbonate.

Warming and heating

To insulate a buried greenhouse, the surface of the walls should be covered with a waterproofing film. Thermal insulation is already mounted on top of it. As a heater, polystyrene foam or mineral wool is most often used. You can also use special polymer heat-insulating films equipped with a layer of foil. They allow you to accumulate heat inside the room due to the reflection of sunlight. If necessary, grow heat-loving plants equipped with floor heating.

Thus, a buried greenhouse is built. With proper construction, such a building will have all the advantages described above. After the construction is completed, the greenhouse can be immediately used for its intended purpose.

An underground greenhouse is also called buried. It is these structures that are considered the best options for growing crops in a greenhouse. Such dugout greenhouses perfectly retain heat and are suitable for year-round gardening. No matter what the weather is outside, the ideal microclimate will remain inside. Thus, funds are significantly saved on laying a powerful heating system, as well as energy resources in the cold season.

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

You can make an in-depth greenhouse with your own hands, but before giving preference to such a design, you should carefully examine its pros and cons. Among the advantages, it can be noted that the construction and maintenance are within the power of both experienced gardeners and beginners in this business.

In addition, there are a number of other advantages that you should definitely pay attention to:

In winter, inside the greenhouse, the temperature level does not drop below +10 ° C, and at the same time without additional heating. A winter greenhouse installed in the ground will perfectly preserve vegetables and plants in the best possible way.
In summer, during the most intense heat, the plants will be closed from the scorching rays of the sun.
In Russia, trench greenhouses are beginning to gain popularity, especially due to the fact that you can not spend much on purchasing materials.
A buried greenhouse is the most ideal option for a greenhouse business all year round.
At cost, such a structure is the most budgetary both in terms of building materials and finishing.

A thermos-type greenhouse functions due to a solid frame, foundation, as well as air space, which is formed under a film or transparent plastic.

Due to the fact that there is no draft, the air temperature remains stable.

The penetration of sunlight is carried out in sufficient quantities, and that is why in such structures the plants grow quickly and you can harvest a large crop.

Underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Regardless of whether a greenhouse is used underground in Siberia or Ukraine, in order to grow crops in it all year round, it must be strengthened, insulated and provided with heating. On the inside, the walls should be covered with a layer of film, and not ordinary, but heat-insulating. If the region has too severe climatic conditions, then it is advisable to choose a foil thermal film. However, it needs to be mounted only before winter and removed in spring, as in summer it will create an additional greenhouse effect and heat, which will negatively affect the plants and their maturation.

In order for the growing process to be as efficient and correct as possible, you need to install a certain battery that generates heat.

It is easy to make, because it is enough to use just plastic bottles with ordinary water. It heats up in a minimum amount of time and does not cool down for a long time. In addition, a barrel of water, underfloor heating with steam heating, a cable with electricity installed under a layer of soil can be used. In this case, the cable is poured with concrete and a special mesh is laid. Some gardeners prefer to cover the tiles, which allows you to make the greenhouse more beautiful and cozy. It is advisable to do the heating of greenhouses of a combined type, whereby both the soil and the air are heated at the same time. On average, the temperature will vary 25-32o C.

What material cover greenhouses underground

To build a greenhouse, you need to correctly select each material, including the coating.

There are paintings such as:

Glass;
Polyethylene;
Polycarbonate.

It is polycarbonate sheets that are considered the most ideal material for such structures. Polycarbonate sheets in length reach 12 meters, which allows you to make a coating without numerous seams. The ventilation of the structure is minimal, since there are practically no joints, which eliminates the formation of drafts.

Additionally, to eliminate heat loss in a buried greenhouse, you can:

Lay cellular polycarbonate doubly;
Use thermal blocks for arranging a greenhouse along the upper edge of the soil;
Wrap the walls inside the structure with a special thermal film.

As a rule, greenhouses are made either arched or gable with an acute angle, so that in winter the snow rolls off on its own, and also does not put pressure on the roof, which can cause its destruction and reduce its service life.

To increase the strength of the structure, it is worth using rafters, and it is from wood. Prior to installation, they are impregnated with a special compound to prevent the formation of rotting, insects and drying out, as well as to increase the service life. Between the rafters - supports, there should be a strapping with wooden bars. First, the rafters are installed along the length of the greenhouse, and then along the ends.

When building a structure, you can use not only wood racks, but also metal supports. They require special care, just like the rafters. Namely, the metal must be cleaned from corrosion, impregnated with a primer and painted. Basically, such procedures are carried out every year and are a natural service.

The installation of polycarbonate sheets is carried out by means of self-tapping screws, but through pre-drilled holes.

The end parts of the greenhouse are left unscrewed until the supports are completed and strengthened for the winter. Where polycarbonate is joined, a special sealant must be used, preferably frost-resistant, moisture-resistant and heat-resistant. It's not hard to find one at all.

Underground greenhouse cost

The greenhouse is deepened in order to significantly reduce the cost of building materials, as well as to increase the warmth inside the structure. It is worth noting that the price of a buried greenhouse is calculated only after drawings, projects are drawn up, and there are also clear parameters and technical specifications.

In general, the price of a structure depends on a number of facts:

What material will be used: improvised, expensive, cheap, high-quality or Chinese.
From the method of attachment.
From the thickness of polycarbonate sheets. It is worth considering the moment that if the greenhouse is winter, then polycarbonate needs twice as much.

The cost also depends on what area of the greenhouse will be built, because the larger it is, the more natural and more materials need to be purchased.

Materials and tools for creating a recessed greenhouse

In order to equip a full-fledged greenhouse structure, in particular, a recessed one, a standard set of tools and building, as well as finishing materials, is sufficient.

The beginning of the construction of a greenhouse in the ground can be different. It depends on what you will use - improvised means or expensive materials from a hardware store.

We will need:

Cement, ready or dry.
Sand and gravel.
Shovel shovel and bayonet type.
A container, preferably roomy and made of wood, since the weight of the container with the solution will be large and additional kilograms are simply useless.
Master OK.
A mixture of plaster, preferably universal.
Styrofoam in sheets.
Thermoblocks of standard sizes.
Polycarbonate sheets. Much better to buy long sheets. They bend perfectly and one cannot help but be afraid that they will burst or crack if strong supports are made.
Film for thermal insulation.
Construction tape.
Nails are galvanized.
Self-tapping screws.
Hammer pliers.
Primer.
Dye.
Brushes.

Underground greenhouses (video)

When forming an underground greenhouse with your own hands, you should pay special attention to the design, as well as the installation of supports not only for the roof, but also for walls dug in the ground. The depth must be sufficient. And the construction must be carried out correctly.

The construction of an underground greenhouse with your own hands at first glance seems incomprehensible. Some refuse the idea due to a lack of understanding of the need and expediency of deepening the greenhouse, while others are frightened off by the laboriousness of the process. However, if you deal with everything in order, the advantages and effectiveness of the pit construction become obvious. Having learned the main points of arrangement and having studied the step-by-step construction technology, you can begin to independently create a thermos greenhouse.

Energy efficient underground thermos greenhouse

The principle of operation of a greenhouse buried in the ground

The base of the buried greenhouse is in the ground, the sun's rays penetrate through the transparent roof. This solution allows you to achieve a thermal insulation effect without heating equipment. Under the ground in a winter thermos greenhouse, you can grow different types of plants, including exotic ones, which is proved by the report in the video.

Video: Variety of crops grown in a buried thermos greenhouse

Why hide a greenhouse in the ground

The practice of building greenhouses in the ground has lost its former popularity, and today recessed structures in a summer cottage are rather exotic. The main reason for abandoning the "dugouts" is the laboriousness of digging a pit. Some agronomists prefer the traditional building because of the better illumination of the plants.

However, there are plenty of good reasons for arranging an underground greenhouse for vegetable growing and horticulture:

The walls of a recessed greenhouse accumulate heat according to the principle of a thermos, stabilizing the temperature regime of the microclimate in the nursery. The difference between day and night temperatures is about 5 °C.
Due to the cumulative effect, in the southern regions it is possible to do without forced heating throughout the year, and in cold regions it is possible to significantly reduce heating costs in winter.
The cost of a greenhouse underground is much lower than the construction of a conventional greenhouse. Wall decoration is minimal - it can be made from old bricks or logs. The covering sheet is used exclusively for the roof.

Buried greenhouse made of brick and polycarbonate

Drawings and photos of structures

All pit greenhouses, depending on the depth and height of the walls, are divided into two groups: buried and underground.

Buried greenhouses are partially submerged in the soil - to a depth of about 50-80 cm. The height of the ground walls reaches 110-150 cm and more. Building a greenhouse underground with your own hands comes down to preparing a pit and installing a traditional structure. The presence of ground walls makes the building more vulnerable to cold weather.

Partially buried thermos greenhouse

Drawing of a gable recessed building

An underground greenhouse assumes the presence in the ground part of only a shelter and a horizontal support beam. The construction is painstakingly arranged and requires a special approach to lighting.

Underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Assembly scheme of the underground "thermos"

Depending on the height of the opposite walls, horizontal and inclined greenhouses are distinguished. In the first case, the support bars are the same on the longitudinal sides. Such a thermos greenhouse is suitable for areas with a flat terrain.

Horizontal model of an underground greenhouse

Inclined models are used mainly on slopes. An interesting option is to add a greenhouse to the house. Here the main requirement is the choice of the sunny side and the optimal angle of inclination of the roof.

Inclined version of the greenhouse

During the construction of the "thermos" Walipini (an American development for cold mountainous terrain), the most rational is the angle of 39 °, which provides maximum illumination due to perpendicular sunlight on the plants.

Based on the shape of the roof, underground year-round greenhouses are:

gable;
lean-to;
tunnel (arched).

Scheme of the thermos greenhouse Walipini

Gable - the classic model of the "house". The angle of inclination of the roof is 30 ° - 40 °, but in regions with snowy winters, an increase in the parameter is acceptable. The main plus is the sun exposure for the maximum possible time during the day.

Shed greenhouses are quite compact, but limited in getting natural light, especially in winter. To support the growth and fruiting of plants, artificial lighting is often used.

An example of a solution for a shed underground greenhouse

Tunnel frames are erected from metal arcs, covered with a film or polycarbonate. Pros: Easy to assemble and all-round illumination. Minus - compared to gable arched greenhouses, they are more susceptible to gusts of wind.

Arched or tunnel greenhouse-thermos

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

When planning year-round cultivation of crops in a greenhouse underground, it is necessary to weigh all the pros and cons of the "thermos". Gardeners-gardeners include among the main advantages of an in-depth greenhouse:

temperature balance. In winter, without mechanical heating, the temperature reaches +10 °C, and in summer the plants are protected from overheating (up to +22 °C). Recessed walls prevent sunburn by providing diffused light.
Versatility. The winter thermos greenhouse is applicable for vegetable growing, floriculture and exotic gardening. Michurin amateurs and experienced gardeners cultivate heat-loving plants all year round.
Efficiency. A buried greenhouse fully justifies the construction costs and pays for itself in the first two years in the industrial cultivation of vegetables, herbs, seedlings, flowers. The construction is indispensable in regions with a short summer.
High strength. The squatness of the "thermos" determines its resistance to wind and hurricane. This quality guarantees durability.

The versatility of an underground greenhouse

Negative moments of buried greenhouses:

Increased humidity. Atmospheric precipitation, settling in the soil, is transferred to the room - the level of relative humidity increases. Likely consequences: the development of mold, moss and pathogenic fungi. To minimize negative factors, you should take care of supply and exhaust ventilation.
The complexity of building with your own hands. Only earthworks are of particular difficulty - for their implementation it will be necessary to attract construction equipment. However, when building a small semi-buried thermos greenhouse underground, you can do the digging yourself. It is advisable to use two or three assistants.

Requirements for buried greenhouses

The tactics of building an underground thermos greenhouse has a number of nuances that are important to consider at the design stage. The main points concern the location and dimensions.

The possibility of shadows from neighboring buildings and plantings should be excluded.
To increase the intensity of illumination, the longitudinal side is oriented in an east-west direction.
Proximity to a reservoir is highly undesirable - this is fraught with the appearance of dampness inside the underground greenhouse.
If cold gusty winds prevail in the region, then it is advisable to protect the dugout and build a fence. The wind barrier should not be placed too close - with a roof height of 2.5 m, a distance of 8-10 m is considered optimal.
The underground greenhouse-thermos is a capital structure and it is impossible to rearrange it to another place. Therefore, it is necessary to foresee the availability of water for irrigation and a convenient entrance in advance.

As for the dimensions, there are no restrictions on the length, and the maximum width is 5 m. If the parameter is exceeded, the heating intensity and light reflection deteriorate.

The depth of the dugout has a special effect on the heat-holding capacity. The base of the thermos greenhouse should not reach groundwater, but the beds should be laid out at least 1 m below the level of soil freezing. In temperate climates, the minimum depth is 2 m.

The minimum depth of the thermos greenhouse is 2 m

How to build a thermos greenhouse - step by step instructions

A step-by-step instruction with visual photos will help you determine the materials, understand the sequence of building a buried greenhouse, and, as a result, make a compact dugout for a summer residence based on your own strength.

Step 1: Prepare materials and tools

The main structural elements of a greenhouse recessed into the ground: walls, frame and roofing.

For walls, thermoblocks are mainly used. The building material consists of polystyrene foam walls connected by jumpers. Blocks are used as formwork, and after installation they are poured with concrete. The result is a strong and insulated wall.

Thermoblock for the construction of a buried greenhouse

The roof frame is erected from a metal profile or wood. The first option will provide proper strength and wear resistance, but the processing of metal structures requires skills in working with a welding machine. It is easier to make a frame from wooden slats and treat it with a protective impregnation.

Used as a cover:

film - low cost, but limited service life - 2-3 years;
glass - fire resistance, sufficient transparency, but the fragility and high cost of the "plating";
polycarbonate - impact resistance, plasticity, resistance to UV rays, service life - up to 10-15 years.

Cellular polycarbonate for sheltering greenhouses

The optimal solution for an underground thermos greenhouse is cellular polycarbonate 6 mm thick.

In addition to the materials described for the construction of an underground greenhouse with your own hands, you will need:

fittings, cement, crushed stone and sand for the foundation;
expanded polystyrene plates and reflective film for additional thermal insulation;
plaster mixture;
fasteners: screws, nails, nuts.

Required tools:

jigsaw;
bayonet and shovel;
concrete mixer;
hammer;
pliers;
Master OK;
tape measure, plumb line and level.

Pit preparation

Step 2: how to make the base of the greenhouse

The basis of the greenhouse in the ground is the foundation in the prepared pit. Therefore, the first stage is marking the site for an underground greenhouse and carrying out land work.

As a rule, the area of an underground building is 10-50 square meters. m. It is very difficult to overpower such a volume on your own, so it is better to use the services of an excavator. The walls of the dug pit must be leveled with a shovel to achieve the desired dimensions.

At this stage, it is worth considering the need and methods for an additional heating system - whether a communications supply is required.

The next stage is the laying of the strip foundation. It can be replaced with concrete blocks. If the thermos greenhouse is partially buried in the ground, then the base rises to the full depth of the pit or slightly above the middle.

Sequencing:

Prepare a wooden formwork - inside the perimeter of the pit, set wedges with a distance of 30 cm. Make boards from the boards. Immediately mark the place under the door - do not fill the foundation here.
Mix gravel and sand in equal proportions and fill the trench. The thickness of the "pillow" is 10 cm.
Weld the reinforcing block. The reinforcing frame must consist of at least 4 bars.
Install the armored belt on the sand and gravel backfill. It is necessary to remove the metal protrusions - they will fix the thermal blocks and the base of the canopy will be attached to them.
Combine sand, cement and gravel (5:1:3), add water and knead the solution.
Pour the formwork with the prepared mixture.

Installation of formwork for concrete pouring

Work continues after 25 days - the foundation should gain strength. At the end of the line, the formwork can be removed, and the concrete base can be treated with bituminous mastic to protect it from moisture.

Step 3: building the frame

To increase the height of the underground greenhouse, thermal blocks are placed through which metal rods from the foundation are threaded. The voids of the blocks are filled with concrete. The entrance is framed with wooden beams.

The height of the walls of the buried thermos greenhouse is at least 50 cm. This value is enough so that in winter snowdrifts do not clutter up the covering material and do not interfere with the flow of light.

The rise of the walls of the greenhouse-thermos above ground level

Before the construction of the frame, the greenhouse is thermally insulated. The inner part is sheathed with foil insulation - due to the reflection of sunlight, heat accumulation will increase.

Prepare the details of the truss system and treat the wooden blanks with an antiseptic.
Connect the rafters and strengthen them with metal corners.
Form a support from the rafters and bring a ridge beam under them.
Dock the extreme rafters with the beam with self-tapping screws.
Install jumpers on the front support between the flashings and rafters.
Paint the wood frame.

Roof truss system for thermo-greenhouses

Step 4: covering the greenhouse

Polycarbonate is fastened using:

roofing screws;
connecting profile;
self-tapping screws with a thermal washer made of polymer.

The sequence of covering the underground greenhouse-thermos:

Using a sharp knife or a jigsaw, cut a polycarbonate sheet according to the dimensions of the roof. It is important not to damage the stabilizing coating.
Lay the workpiece on a flat surface, mark the attachment points with a marker and drill holes.
Glue the ends of polycarbonate with sealing tape.
Attach the canvas to the frame with the stabilizing side outward and, holding, fasten the screws. Fasteners must be perpendicular to the polycarbonate.
Join adjacent sheets through a connecting profile.
Fix an iron roofing corner along the ridge beam.

Covering the thermos greenhouse with polycarbonate

In the roof of the underground greenhouse, it is necessary to provide folding vents for ventilation.

Step 5: arranging a thermos greenhouse

The organization of the internal space of the underground greenhouse includes:

breakdown of beds;
framing tracks;
creation of a fertile layer;
supply of electricity.

The number and size of the beds depend on the width of the thermos greenhouse. Planning nuances:

the maximum width of the ridge is 1-1.2 m - if the indicator is exceeded, it is not convenient to take care of distant landings;
with limited space, 2 beds are broken along the longitudinal walls, in the center - a path with a width of 50 cm or more;
if three parallel landing strips fit, then the permissible center width reaches 1.5 m - it will be possible to cultivate crops from versatile aisles.

Layout of beds in a buried greenhouse

Due to the high humidity in a deepened thermos greenhouse, uncovered earthen paths quickly become slippery, and puddles form on them after watering. Ennoblement of passages:

Install the limiter boards - a height of 5 cm above the ground.
Line the paths with a deck of bricks, pieces of blocks or wooden boards.

Raised beds 25-30 cm high are suitable for a pit greenhouse. Framing is done with flat slate strips, metal or wood. Pegs are installed to support the curb. Fertile soil is poured inside the formed box.

Possible soil mixture options:

sand, soil, humus, peat (1:1:3:5);
chopped straw, peat, cow dung (1:2:1).

In conclusion, they conduct electricity, hang the door and locking fittings, mount lighting devices.

Video: how to build an underground greenhouse

Do-it-yourself practical examples of a thermos greenhouse show the main aspects of building an all-season greenhouse.

An example of an underground greenhouse for year-round gardening: description and detailed drawing. Shelter - three-layer polyethylene.

Video: Dugout for vegetables without heating

In-depth winter greenhouse with a water heating circuit from the Buleryan furnace and a drip irrigation system. Canopy material - two-layer film.

Video: Arrangement and heating of a greenhouse underground

The underground thermos greenhouse makes it possible to grow various types of crops all year round. The construction and arrangement of a winter structure is within the power of even novice gardeners - it is important to correctly determine the depth of construction, select materials and adhere to construction technology.

As you know, the soil has the ability to maintain a constant temperature, for example, at an air temperature of about zero degrees, the soil temperature is about 10 degrees Celsius. Often this natural phenomenon is used in the construction of greenhouses, which are called earthen or buried. Next, we will consider what features earthen greenhouses have and how they are built.

Features of earthen greenhouses

Device

To take advantage of the warmth of the soil, it still needs to be buried below ground level. Of course, the soil temperature will not be enough to, for example, grow peppers or tomatoes in winter, however, it will be much easier to heat it with artificial devices.

Most sunken greenhouses are equipped with racks or shelves on which to grow crops to the point where they can receive the required amount of solar heat and light in the open field. At the same time, boxes for seedlings, potting soil and tools can be stored under these shelves.

The underground parts of the walls of such greenhouses can go deep into 1.5m, and aboveground - up to 1 meter in height, however, most often the walls are deepened to 0.9-1.2m, this allows the tops of the racks to reach the bottom of the cover.

Peculiarities

Compared to other types of greenhouses, the construction will be quite expensive, since you will have to dig a pit and build a concrete foundation for the walls that can withstand the pressure of the soil. However, if the foundation is insulated, then heating costs will be significantly reduced in the future. It should also be borne in mind that a greenhouse deepened into the ground requires steps at the entrance, and these are also certain costs.

Recessed greenhouses require good drainage, so before you start building, you need to make sure that with the design you choose, you can build drainage without much effort. If electricity is brought into the greenhouse, then a bilge pump can be the solution, however, natural drainage will be much less expensive.

If the area where you are going to build a greenhouse has a slope from north to south, then you can make a semi-submersible structure. In this case, the rear wall of the greenhouse should be at ground level and consist of cast-in-place concrete or concrete blocks.

The front wall should be completely glass, thus the natural landscape will be used to protect and warm the plants. It is quite convenient to work in buried greenhouses, since you can stand at full height.

Construction of an in-depth greenhouse

Choosing a place to build a greenhouse

When choosing a location, there are three main points to consider:

Wind direction. If your area is dominated by gusty cold winds, then you need to take care of additional protection. This implies additional costs, but for that, you will save on heating. The role of additional protection can be performed by a fence.
Light. It is imperative that the greenhouse receives the maximum amount of light throughout the daylight hours. This will ensure efficient crop growth.
Availability for construction. If the greenhouse is built for long and constant operation, then convenient access to it is a must.

Note! An additional fence should not be too close to the greenhouse. If the height of the ridge is, for example, 2.5 m, then the distance between the greenhouse and the fence must be at least 8 m. This is due to the fact that the wind flow, which stumbles upon an obstacle, goes up and can cool the structure.

Construction of a gable earthen greenhouse

As an example, consider the building, as it is the most versatile and suitable for even the most severe climate. In such a greenhouse, you can grow not only garden crops, but also horticultural crops.

Of course, this example does not apply to the economy class, but in fact it is a very economical and convenient structure that can serve you for many years.

Such a greenhouse includes two rooms:

working area;
Greenhouse;
Tambour.

In the vestibule, you can place a heating boiler and a control unit that is responsible for watering, ventilation and lighting. The vestibule room must have a length of at least one and a half meters. It is desirable to cover its roof with an opaque material.

In the photo - a do-it-yourself brick duo-slope earthen greenhouse

In addition to the control unit, it is necessary to provide for a place in which inventory, earth mixtures and other necessary materials and items will be stored. The walls, as mentioned above, will be built of brick, and mineral wool can be used as a heat insulator.

Note! Soil sampling in the pit for the greenhouse should be done no higher than the freezing level of the soil. As a rule, it is 80-90 cm deep. This also applies to pouring the foundation.

The instruction looks like this:

First of all, a foundation pit of a certain size is dug and a strip foundation is made, which is poured 80 cm deep.
Then the walls are erected in one brick, respectively, the thickness of - 25 cm. The windows are mounted 60 cm above the level. For good natural light, the width between windows should be 2-3 bricks, i.e. up to 75 cm.
Next up is the roof. This project provides for a gable roof, which provides a natural and free flow of water. The angle of its inclination should be about 25 degrees.

Strapping bars are installed from below on roofing felt. The strapping and ridge timber should be fastened with rafters. For the roof, double glass is used with a minimum thickness of 3 mm; polycarbonate can also be used, the price of which is lower than glass.

Advice! To protect the walls, it is desirable to use a galvanized visor, which is installed with an indent from the wall plane by 8-10 cm.

Greenhouses in the land of such a plan can last at least fifteen years.

Advice! Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms. An alternative is supply air vents.

Construction of a shed earthen greenhouse

If the construction of the above construction is too expensive for you, then you can build a more budgetary version of the greenhouse. Its frame will be made of three rows of wooden racks.

The construction is carried out as follows:

First of all, a pit is dug.
Then the racks are installed. The length of the pillars located at the north wall should be 150 cm, the length of the middle row racks - 170 cm, the height near the south wall - 90 cm.
The extreme rows must be sheathed with slabs along the entire length of the racks. Racks of the middle row are sheathed with slabs only to the height of the ridge. Thus, a notch with a depth of 90 cm is performed. This notch should be filled with biofuel by 70 cm, and a layer of earth should be poured on top of 10-15 cm.
The walls on the north and south sides should be sprinkled with earth. The slope, which is directed to the south, must be covered with greenhouse frames.

Advice! To prevent heat loss through the roof, it is worth throwing mats on the glass at night - reed, straw, made of film or paper.

If good biofuel is used, then such a greenhouse can be operated starting from March, for example, growing lettuce, onions, Chinese cabbage, etc. there.

Conclusion

The main advantage of recessed greenhouses is the use of soil as a natural insulator. This allows you to significantly save on heating the greenhouse. As a result, such greenhouses are very popular among both amateur gardeners and professionals.

For more information on this topic, see the video in this article.