Idling adjustment on the carburetor to 133.

It would seem easy to remove the carburetor from the engine: it is attached to the intake manifold with just two nuts. But the approach to them is so inconvenient that in some cases it is more rational to service the carburetor without removing it from the engine.

For almost all further operations, you can limit yourself to removing the float chamber cover. First, you must free the sheath and the air damper drive cable, the rod connecting the throttle and air damper axle levers (remove the cotter pin at the bottom), the parking unbalance valve drive rod (if any). In addition, it is necessary to disconnect the air cleaner pipe and the fuel pump hose.

With the cover removed, you can, for example, check the actual fuel level in the float chamber by measuring the distance from the connector surface to the gasoline surface. This distance, according to the instruction manual, should be 22 + 1.5-1 mm.

The idle jets are removed as follows. First with key 12 mm unscrew the plug, then with a screwdriver with a blade width of 4 mm - a jet that remains in a horizontal well. Putting your palm in front of the well, blow into the hole communicating with it - the jet will be in your hand. To remove the air jet, blow into the long slot in the fuel jet connector - into the emulsion well (Fig. 8).

The close proximity of the ignition distributor interferes with unscrewing the main fuel jet with a conventional screwdriver. Instead of a screwdriver, we use a steel strip with a thickness of 0.6 mm with an end bent at an angle of 90 °. Into the slot of the jet we introduce the bent end of the strip or its lateral edge (with the vertical arrangement of the slot).

If you still need to remove the carburetor, then unscrew the front, most inconvenient, nut with a key 12 mm, placed vertically. To increase the force, insert a rod perpendicularly into the free jaw of the key (another key is possible). Before removing the carburetor, you must carefully remove the nuts and washers from the studs, otherwise they tend to sink into the most secluded places of the engine.

Well, what if the nut and washer are still missing? The nut can be temporarily taken from the generator mounting stud. She has the same thread M8X 1, only the turnkey size is not 12, but 14 mm. It is better to put such a nut on the far stud of the carburetor. As for the internally toothed lock washer, it can be replaced with a conventional SPRING washer for 8 mm. There is one carburetor element that needs to be checked and monitored periodically, and that is the drain plug located on the back of the float chamber. For example, we paid a great price for not paying attention to this small element. After driving on a shaky road, a fire broke out in the engine compartment due to a loose traffic jam, which was hardly extinguished (the engine compartment hood lock was jammed). This, of course, is a rare case, but the seriousness of its consequences does not allow such a simple operation to be neglected.

The operation of the throttle and air valve drives of the Zaporozhtsev carburetor leaves much to be desired. Some people change the standard sheath of the drive cable to the sheath of the flexible shaft of the speedometer in order to reduce the resistance to the movement of the cable.

A break in the throttle cable after 2-3 years of intensive use is a common occurrence. It always breaks off at the pedal, so it can be reused by clamping it in the simplest tip with a hole for the pedal trunnion. An acquaintance of ours used as a tip a bookcase key that accidentally ended up in his pocket. He inserted the end of the broken cable into the key hole, flattened the key and put the handle on the pedal pin. Better, of course, to carry with you a more convenient tip, for example, shown in Figure 9.

At each break in the cable, its length decreases and it may not be enough to fix it in the clamp of the compensator. To reuse the cable, as well as to improve the geometry of the throttle valve drive, you can put the compensator up to the lever of the throttle valve shaft (fig. 10). Pre-drill a new cotter hole in the expansion joint rod

Rice. nine.Cable end "/ - nut М8, 2 - cable, 3 - screw M8 with hole 2 mm, 4 - plate

Rice.10. Attaching the cable to the throttle lever:

/ - cable, 2 - compensator, .3 - throttle lever, 4 - cotter pin, 5 - washer nta from calculating that it will rest against the rear wall of the cage during departure, 6 - springs, 7-strip (hook)

Rice. 12.Securing the air damper rod sheath:

1 - bracket with made cuts 2 - handle, 3 - clampRice. eleven.Attaching the rod to the choke lever:

/ - thrust, 2 - old clamp without screw. 3 - new clamp. 4 choke lever

rod 10 mm. One end of the spring is put on the bent part of the rod between the lever and the washer, locked with a cotter pin, the other is inserted into the hole of the metal strip, which is hooked onto the edge of the fan casing.

The drive of the air damper, in contrast to the throttle, is carried out not by a flexible cable, but by a steel wire rod, which is less elastic and more sensitive to kinks. Rigid fastening of the rod in the clamp of the choke lever makes it necessary to exactly match the lower position of the control button and the extreme position of the lever. If there is no such coincidence, the air damper will be permanently closed or a slack in the draft will appear, which will lead to its bending. This is also facilitated by the closing of the throttle valve directly by the lever (when the cable is stuck).

It is easy to fix this drawback: pass the rod through the standard clamp with the screw out, and place your clamp behind it on the rod. Now you can create a guaranteed gap between the old and new clamps and not be afraid of excessive thrust travel (Fig. 11).

But another nuisance also happens. The control button closes the flap, but then does not open, despite the button being pushed all the way down. This happens when the end of the shell is loosened in the bracket. Previously, on the ZAZ-968, this was quickly corrected: the bracket was removed and the locking screw was tightened. Now, in ZAZ-968M, instead of a metal one, a plastic case is used, and the shell is protected from being pulled out by a rolled-in plastic antennae, which break off when the button is pressed firmly.

Frankly speaking, we do not know how to fix the shell again in such a case, and we propose a tried and tested solution. It is necessary to cut the longitudinal grooves on and during assembly pull off this part of the flexible hoses fastening in the lower part with the clamp bracket used for Such a collet clamp securely holds the sheath.

Is it possible to put two Zhiguli carburetors or one K-151 on a ZAZ-965 (ZAZ-968) engine to increase power? How else can you increase the power of the humpback motor?

Vadim Chutur, Korostyshev

Two carburetors for a 23-horsepower MeMZ-965 engine (27 hp - MeMZ-966; 30 hp - MeMZ-966A) cannot be installed without altering the intake manifold. Moreover, it makes no sense to do this, since the desired increase in power cannot be obtained due to a significant decrease in the speed of the intake air flow in the diffusers of the two carburetors. Mixing will be of poor quality, and instead of the expected improvements, only new problems will arise. For the same reasons, the engine will not become more powerful even after the installation of the "Volgovskiy" K-151 carburetor. After all, it is of little use for forcing, i.e. it is almost impossible to increase the power. It will only be possible to increase the compression ratio by reducing the volume of the combustion chamber. To do this, it is necessary to grind the lower seating surface of the cylinders to a depth of 1-1.5 mm. This "extra" layer of metal should be removed in stages - 0.5 mm each, checking after each pass if there is no contact between the piston and the cylinder head. After such modernization, it will be necessary to switch to high-octane gasoline - A-92, A-95. As a result of alterations, the already small resource of the "humpback" motor will be reduced to 20-30 thousand km in general.

It is easiest to change the "native" Zaporozhets carburetor for a two-chamber Zhigulevsky DAAZ on more powerful engines MeMZ-968GE (45 hp) and MeMZ-968BE (50 hp) with an increased compression ratio (8.4 instead of 7.2) for AI-93 gasoline. Distinctive feature these engines - the presence of a two-chamber carburetor "Ozone" (DAAZ-2101-20) and a modified manifold with a landing pad for this element of the power system. Although I will note that changing the DAAZ-2101-20 to the "Zhiguli" modification of the "Ozone" is impractical, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to "squeeze" high power (45 and 50 hp) out of the engine.

It is quite difficult to get an increase in strength by installing the Zhigulevsky Ozone on the “native” collector of the Zaporozhets, although it is possible if you correctly approach the selection of jets using the calibration data of the DAAZ-2101-20 model (see table). It is very difficult to find a rare DAAZ-2101-20 for installation, and even with a collector for it. The best option is to install a DAAZ-2105 carburetor. Fuel consumption with such a modernization is unlikely to decrease, but power will increase, engine throttle response and starting characteristics in the cold season will improve. To install the "Zhiguli" carburetor on the MeMZ-968 manifold, you will have to make an adapter (see Fig.), Which will ensure the rotation of the "Ozone" by 900. This arrangement makes it easier to fit the air filter, although additional parts are required to drive the throttle and choke valves.

Calibration data of the DAAZ-2101-20 carburetor Mixing chamber diameter, mm 1st camera 2nd camera 32 32 Large diffuser diameter, mm 23 23 Small diffuser diameter, mm 10.5 10.5 Mixture nozzle, mm 4.0 4.5 Main fuel jet, mm 1.20 1.25 Main air. jet, mm 1.50 1.90 Fuel. idle jet, mm 0.6 - Air. idle jet, mm 1.70 - Fuel. jet crossover sist. 2nd chamber, mm - 0.6 Air. jet crossover sist. 2nd chamber, mm - 0.7 Sprayer of the accelerating pump, mm 0.5 - Bypass nozzle accelerating. pump, mm 0.4 - Fuel. econostat jet, mm - 1.5 Air. econostat jet, mm - 0.9

Prepared by Yuri Datsyk

We remove the carburetor, close the air damper. From the wall of the mixing chamber to the throttle valve, it is necessary to adjust the gap with an optimal distance of 1.6 - 1.8 millimeters. By bending the traction, we will gradually achieve the indicated indicators. The damper fits tightly to the air intake, the backlash does not exceed 0.25 millimeters.
We mount the ZAZ 968 carburetor back into the car.

How to set up the VZ (air damper) actuator:

We pull on the entire choke control lever, then press it in by 1 millimeter.
We close the airlock to the end, in this position we will carry out all the fastening actions.
We attach a steel wire to the bore of the VZ drive lever, squeeze it with a screw. We fix the drive sheath on the corresponding fixing bracket.
In order for the carburetor from Zaporozhets to work correctly, we verify the operation of the OT drive. The closed position of the VZ is observed when the lever is extended; the damper is fully open when the lever is in the recessed position.

Actions with DZ (throttle valve)

The throttle cable is inserted into the throttle actuator arm damper. The end of the drive sheath is already in the bracket.
The throttle valve is fully closed.
The cable is clamped with a screw.
We supply the structure with a tension spring. At the same time, we control the condition of the cable: it should not weaken, and the throttle valve should be absolutely closed.

There are two ways to adjust the idle speed for normal operation of the carburetor from Zaporozhets:

In the first method, we start the engine and provide heating up to 75⁰С. The fuel quality screw is screwed in all the way without using excessive force. Then the same screw is turned out a couple of turns. The engine starts, using the screw for the amount of fuel, we put the working one. idle speed at 950 - 1050 rpm.
Using the second method, we do all the points of the first method. Then we set the number screw to the min idle speed position, which is permissible for stable operation of the motor. The quality screw allows you to achieve a maximum increase in idle speed. And the fuel quantity screw sets the working speed. All the steps outlined in the second method can be passed twice.

Where to service the ZAZ 968 carburetor: in a workshop or in your own garage?

Setting up a carburetor on a ZAZ 968, it is not always possible to independently achieve a positive result. Elements of the idling system can simply wear out, so it makes sense to check and replace the needles, it is possible to run in the holes for these needles. The easiest and most affordable way is to contact a specialist who will help you rebuild the system with a gas analyzer. It all depends on your experience, free time and the availability of appropriate equipment and spare parts.

The carburetor ZAZ 968m is a cult Soviet car. He replaced the famous "humpback", and in the late 80s was restyled. Until now, in many countries there are fans of such machines, so many of them are very often interested in the issues of operation and repair. Today you will learn how to set up and adjust the ZAZ 968m carburetor with your own hands.

What carburetor was the Zaporozhets equipped with?

Depending on the lineup and the year of manufacture ZAZ could be equipped with a K-127 or K 133A carburetor. If you study them carefully, you can find huge differences from the same K 133. These devices were not equipped with idle economizers, and the float chamber is made in such a way that it has a connection with the atmosphere and is clearly balanced.

The zaz 968m carburetor consists of 3 main parts:

Mixing chamber with a lower branch pipe;
Float chamber;
Float chamber cover.

All the necessary mechanisms are located in the lid. Among them are the accelerator pump sprayer, air dampers, the needle valve of the float chamber, as well as the nozzle responsible for idling.

The float chamber and diffuser are pressed into the middle part. It also contains the float and the valve of the float chamber.

The air flap control button is located in the tunnel in the floor of the passenger compartment. It is connected to the throttle control rods and when opened, it also opens slightly by 1.6 mm. The manufacturer adjusted these values at release, but over time they may lose their settings.

The carburetor was used not only on ZAZ cars, but also on LuAZ. Therefore, the entire tuning process is no different on both vehicles.

The K-127 carburetor is two-diffuser, vertical, with a falling flow.

BASIC TECHNICAL DATA OF THE CARBURETOR
Mixing chamber diameter, mm:	32
Diffuser diameter, mm: small big	8 22
Balancing hole diameter, mm	3,2
Nozzle throughput, cm3 / min: main fuel - fuel idle -	225 ± Z 52 ± 1.5
Jet diameter, mm: main air - air idle - accelerator pump sprayer - economizer -	1,2+0.06 1,4+0.03 0,6+0.06 0,75+0.06
The gap between the strap and the nut of the economizer drive rod at full throttle valve opening, mm:	3.0 ± 0.5
Fuel level in the float chamber (from the upper plane of the float chamber), mm:	22 ± 1.0
Float assembly weight, gr .:	13.3 ± 0.7
Fuel supply valve needle stroke, mm:	1,2+0,3

Reasons for tuning the ZAZ 968m carburetor?

No carburetor adjustments are made unnecessarily.

Therefore, it is performed if the car has the following list of faults:

Unstable idle;
Increased or decreased speed;
High fuel consumption;
Small throttle response of the engine;
The engine has been overhauled.

An unadjusted carburetor or ignition system can lead to all this.

Many lovers of a LuAZ or ZAZ car perform this procedure to increase power, but it must be remembered that when such a setting is performed, fuel consumption can seriously increase, and the engine resource will be reduced. Our task is to consider the standard most economical carburetor adjustment while maintaining the required engine power.

Preparatory work before adjusting the carburetor ZAZ 968m

Before adjusting the device, you need to make sure that the motor is in full serviceability. Otherwise, the whole procedure will be meaningless. To do this, pay attention to the valve clearances. They must be nominal. Adjust them if necessary.

The next element is the correct operation of the ignition system. The lead angle should be set as needed, and the ignition coil, cables and plugs are in good condition. If necessary, these elements must be replaced.

It is best to put the car in a warm garage if the work is done in winter. He should stand on level ground. The gearbox is at neutral speed and the wheels are locked with the parking brake.

When preparing the ZAZ 968m carburetor for maintenance, the carburetor setting should be done after the appropriate air and fuel jet has been purchased.

Setting up the carburetor zaz 968m

First, remove the assembly from the car, it must undergo complete disassembly, cleaning and further assembly, taking into account certain requirements. The first is the gap between the throttle valve and the mixing chamber. Ideally, it should be between 1.6 mm and 1.8 mm at full throttle. To set these values, you need to bend the rod in the desired direction. When the flap is closed, it should fit very tightly. Otherwise, there will be an extra air leak. Adjust the gap by grinding or by bending the rod in the same way.

The throttle valve of the K-133A carburetor (correct and incorrect position): a - incorrect; b - correct; 1 - the outlet of the idle emulsion channel; 2 - air channel; 3 - emulsion channel; 4 - screw for adjusting the quality of the mixture; 5 - screw for adjusting the amount of the mixture.

Now you can put the carburetor on the car. The installation must be accompanied by strict compliance with safety regulations. The next step is to adjust the air damper. To do this, the control lever is fully extended and the flap closed. In this position, the cable must be tightened. It is not difficult to check the work - if you drown the lever, then the damper is completely closed, if you pull it out, it opens to the full.

The throttle actuator is controlled in a similar manner. After that, all the springs and rods of the carburetor system are collected. It is imperative to check the operation of the mechanism by imitating its operation.

How to adjust the idle speed of the ZAZ 968m carburetor?

The next important step is the idle setting. The fuel consumption of the car depends on it. The level in the float chamber is not set. You can customize it in two of the most common options. The manufacturer has provided for both methods.

First, start the engine and warm it up to the rated temperature. It is quite possible that the rpm will be incorrect - this is normal, because the idle is not set yet. Then the quality screw is tightened to the end, but not overtightened. The engine should stall. Now we turn it out two turns and start it again, and with the number screw we set the revolutions corresponding to the value of 900-950 rpm.

This can be finished, but there is a second option that will allow you to achieve the most efficient operation of the device. Turn the quality screw again so that the rpm is at its maximum. After that, the amount screw is tightened to the nominal value. This cycle can be performed twice. As a result, a fairly high-quality adjustment will turn out to preserve the maximum amount of fuel. The same is true for the LuAZ automotive power supply system.

That's all. As you can see, adjusting the carburetor with your own hands is not such a difficult job. This procedure must be performed at every maintenance of the car in order to avoid problems with it in the future.

Rice. Carburetor air filter: 1 - valve; 2 - valve seat; 3 - sealing gasket; 4 - spring; 5 - glass; 6 - nylon packing; 7 - air cleaner body; 8 - intake pipe; 9 - crankcase ventilation tube; 10 - ventilation tube of the carburetor float chamber; 11 - branch pipe to the carburetor; 12 - spring latch; 13 - lock handle; 14 - pallet; 15 - swirler; 16 - oil deflector, A - purified air; B - uncleaned air; B - oil.

To flush the filtering pad, clean the pan 14 and change the oil in it, disconnect the filter housing from the engine, release the clamp on the outlet pipe and the lock clip on the tightening band. Disconnect the pallet from the housing 7 of the air cleaner; rinse the packing with petrol or kerosene and let it drain.

Pour out the contaminated oil from the sump, and rinse the sump with kerosene or gasoline.

Pour 0.2 liters of fresh engine oil into a cleaned sump. Filled in this way (attach the pallet with locks to the top of the air cleaner.

When installing the filter, pay attention to the reliability of the seal of the outlet pipe and the neck of the carburetor in order to avoid the suction of contaminated air.

Fuel pump care

Caring for the fuel pump consists in periodically cleaning it from contamination, for which it is necessary to remove its cover and strainer.

You should also monitor the tightness of the gas lines, their condition, the tightening of the clamps for fastening the gas lines, the serviceability of the diaphragm and pump valves.

When removing the pump, make sure that the gaskets are intact.

Rice. Fuel pump: 1 - cover; 2 - filter; 3 - plug of the inlet valve seat; 4 - suction valve; 5 - upper body; 6 - upper diaphragm cup; 7 - internal distance gasket; 8 - diaphragm; 9 - lower diaphragm cup; 10 - lever; 11 - lever spring; 12 - stock; 13 - lower body; 14 - balancer; 15 - eccentric; 16 - axis of the lever and balancer; 17 - filler lever; 18 - pump gasket; 19 - sealing and adjusting gasket; 20 - guide rod of the pump drive; 21 - barbell; 22 - spacer; 23 - distance gasket; 24 - plug of the discharge valve seat; 25 - discharge valve

In the case of replacing gaskets, pump, spacer 22, guide 20 or rod 21, it is necessary with adjusting shims 19 to ensure the normal operation and performance of the fuel pump.

Before installing the pump, it is necessary to press the filler lever 17 until the start of the useful stroke and measure the distance between the lever and the mating plane of the pump housing. The amount of sinking should be within A-1.0-1.5 mm.

Then you should install guide 20 with rod 21, spacer 22 and spacers 18 and 19 on the studs of the timing gear cover and, fixing them, turn crankshaft up to the maximum protrusion of the rod 11. In this case, the rod should be pressed against the cam of the pump drive.

The rod 21 should protrude above the spacer 22 with the spacer 18 by 1.7-2.8 mm more than the filler lever 17 sinks when choosing a free stroke. The size of the protruding rod is adjusted by a set of shims 19. Example: the filler lever is sunk by A-1.5 mm.

Accordingly, the amount of protrusion of the rod should be: 1.5 mm + (1.7-2.8) mm 3.2-4.3 mm.

Carburetor Care

Caring for the carburetor consists in checking the tightness of all connections, plugs and plugs, removing sediment from the float chamber, and periodically, at least twice a year, cleaning and rinsing parts, jets and channels of the carburetor. It is recommended to wash the carburetor with gasoline, and in case of very strong contamination with resinous substances - with acetone. Washed parts; the jets and channels must be blown out with a jet of compressed air. It is completely unacceptable to use a wire, however soft, to clean the jets.

Engine malfunction due to clogged carburetor jets and valves is extremely rare. However, if they become clogged, they should only be cleaned with compressed air.

Rice. Diagram of the K-133 carburetor: 1 - float chamber cover; 2 - accelerating pump; 3 - sprayer; 4 - fuel supply screw; 5 - air damper; 6 - small diffuser with a spray; 7 - large diffuser; 8 - cork; 9 - emulsion tube; 10 - air jet of the main system; 11 - idle fuel jet; 12 - idle air jet; 13 - jet of the main fuel system; 14 - fuel filter; 15 - fuel valve; 16 - body of the float chamber; 17 - float; 18 - cork; 19 - adjusting screw for the autonomous idle system (АСХХ); 20 - ventilation fitting; 21 - solenoid valve for switching on the forced idle economizer system (EPHH); 22 - idle speed adjustment screw operational; 23 - forced idle economizer (EPHH); 24 - valve of the forced idle economizer (PCH) system; 25 - sprayer АСХХ; 26 - outlet idle system opening; 27 - throttle valve; 28 - mixing chamber housing; 29 - fitting in the mixing chamber from the electromagnetic valve; 30 - check valve; 31 - economizer valve: 32 - economizer valve stem with spring; 33 - accelerator pump drive rod; 34 - valve for ventilation of the float chamber; 35 - ventilation valve; 36 - electronic control unit; 37 - ignition coil; 38 - breaker-distributor; 39 - bracket; 40 - microswitch; 41 - screws for fixing the microswitch; 42 - microswitch drive lever; 43 - drive lever; 44 - throttle lever; A, B, D - subphrenic cavities; B - supraphrenic cavity; D - 0.3-1.4 mm clearance between levers

Access to the main fuel jet 13 opens outside the carburetor after unscrewing the plug 18, to the economizer valve 31 - after removing the cover 1 of the float chamber, to the idle fuel jet 11 - after unscrewing the plug 14.

Rice. Carburetor K-143 (front view): 1 - fuel supply pipe; 2 - lever; 3 - valve stem; 4 - plug of the main jet; 5 - screw for fastening the valve lever; 6 - thrust; 7 - accelerator pump drive lever; 6 - parking ventilation valve drive lever; 9 - lock nut of the parking ventilation valve rod; 10 - tube for supplying vacuum to the solenoid valve; 11 - screw for adjusting the autonomous idle speed system (АСХХ); 12 - tube for supplying vacuum to the economizer valve АСХХ; 13 - drain pipe of the parking ventilation valve of the float chamber

Rice. Carburetor K-133 (rear view): 1 - drain pipe of the parking ventilation valve of the float chamber; 2 - upper lever with an axis of the air damper; 3 - a lever with an air damper axis; 4 - telescopic draft of the air damper; 5 - tube for supplying vacuum to the solenoid valve; 6 - fitting to the vacuum regulator of the ignition distributor; 7 - tube for supplying vacuum to the economizer valve of the autonomous idle system; 8 - screw for operational adjustment of АСХХ; 9 - forced idle economizer (EPHH); 10 - thrust throttle lever; 11 - throttle valve drive lever; 12 - lower air damper lever; 13 - microswitch drive lever; 14 - plug of the fuel jet; 15 - the draft of the air damper is rigid; 16 - microswitch; 17 - plug of the air jet of the main system; 18 - bracket for fastening the sheath of the air damper drive cable; 19 - filter plug; 20 - screw for fastening the air damper drive cable

The following carburetor parts may be clogged:

fuel nozzle 13. In this case, the carburetor float chamber will overflow and gasoline will flow into the main air nozzle 10 of the main metering system, which can cause the engine to stop when the car is moving or when operating at low idle speed and complicate the subsequent start of a hot engine;
the fuel jet 11 of the idle system, as a result of which the engine will not operate at a low idle speed even when the screw 22 of the operating adjustment of the PXH is almost turned out;
main fuel jet 13 or economizer valve 31, while the engine will not develop power;
screw 4 of the nozzle 3 of the accelerating pump, in this case there are interruptions in the operation of the engine when starting off and when the throttle valve is suddenly opened.

Disassemble the carburetor carefully so as not to damage the parts. In the case of disassembling the carburetor during its subsequent assembly, you should pay attention to the presence and serviceability of the gaskets under the jets and plugs.

If a warm engine does not start well, check the start of opening of the parking ventilation valve 34. This requires:

adjust the crankshaft rotation speed at idle speed of the engine 950-1050 min-1 (rpm);
by pulling 6, adjust the stroke of the valve stem 3 and, therefore, the valve opening by 2-4 mm from its closed position, while the lever 8 of the valve drive must be pressed against the lever 7 of the drive of the accelerating pump. After adjustment, fix the rod with nut 9.

The need to check the autonomous idle system arises in the event of interruptions in the idle speed.

In this case, it is necessary to monitor the correct installation and operation of the microswitch and the tightness of the electro-pneumatic valve.

To determine the correct installation and check the operation of the microswitch, it is necessary to connect a tester or a power source with a lamp to its contacts, having previously disconnected the wires from the microswitch.

After slightly releasing the lever 42, pressing and releasing the lever, check the action of the microswitch. When the microswitch lever is pressed, the control lamp should go out, when released, it should light up. Releasing the lever 42, then turning the lever 43 of the throttle valve within the free travel G = 0.3-1.4 mm between it and the antenna of the lever 44, check the correct installation of the microswitch; the control lamp lights up when freewheel is selected and goes out when turning to the right. In this case, the throttle axis must be stationary, and the lever must move without jamming.

If the microswitch is installed incorrectly, loosen the screws 41 and, by moving the microswitch in the groove of the lower screw, fix it in the required position, tighten the screws of its fastening and check again. The microswitch cannot be repaired during operation.

The tightness of the solenoid valve is checked by supplying air at a pressure of 0.08-0.085 MPa (0.8-0.85 kgf / cm2) to the side fitting, while the ventilation fitting must be closed.

When a vacuum of 0.085 MPa (0.85 kgf / cm2) is applied to the vertical union, the solenoid valve must open with a 12 V voltage connected and close with the voltage removed.

If the 12 V voltage is connected when the engine is not running, a characteristic click should be heard.

With the engine idling, the valve is checked by disconnecting the wire. In this case, the engine must stop.

The electronic control unit 36 has two limit limits. When the engine crankshaft speed rises more than 1500-1800 min-1 (rpm), the positive potential at terminal 1 is disconnected; when the frequency decreases below 1500 min-1 (rpm), a positive potential appears at terminal 1. Thus, the functionality of the unit is checked, and it is imperative to remove the plug from the microswitch before that. The absence of a positive potential at terminal 1 (in the presence of a positive potential at terminal 2) signals a malfunction of the unit and the need to replace it.

In case of failure of the forced idle economizer system, it is necessary to de-energize the system and connect pipes 5 and 7 with a flexible hose, while the carburetor will work according to the generally accepted scheme without an electronic control unit.

Accelerator Pump Care

The need to check the operation of the accelerator pump arises when there are tangible "dips" in the operation of the carburetor (delay in the response to transient modes). To check the pump, remove the cover of the float chamber, unscrew the screw 4 of the accelerating pump, and, pressing the throttle lever, make sure that gasoline is supplied to the open hole. If gasoline is supplied, the valve and the spray should be purged and reinstalled. If gasoline is not supplied, flush the chamber and achieve a smooth stroke of the accelerator pump piston.

The need to check the tightness of the fuel supply valve arises when gasoline overflow is observed, gasoline flows through the accelerator pump drive rod and in other places, or increased fuel consumption.

Rice. Float with a fuel valve: 1 - float; 2 - tongue for level setting; 3 - float travel stop; 4 - axis of the float; 5 - a seat of the fuel supply valve; 6 - float chamber cover; 7 - needle of the fuel supply valve; 8 - sealing washer

To check the tightness of the valve, it is necessary to remove the cover of the float chamber and check the tightness of the valve. If necessary, replace the sealing washer 8 or the complete fuel valve.

To avoid destruction of the sealing washer, do not:

a) flush the valve with acetone or other solvents;
b) press the float 1 on the valve needle 7 when adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber.

With the valve closed, the float must be positioned so that the longitudinal stampings on it are parallel to the plane of the connectors when the cover is inverted.

The position of the float is adjusted by bending the stop tab 2, at the same time it is necessary to set the needle stroke of the fuel supply valve to 1.2-1.5 mm by bending the stop 3 of the float stroke.

Checking the gasoline level in the float chamber. After each disassembly and assembly of the carburetor, as well as periodically during the operation of the car, check and, if necessary, set the level of gasoline in the float chamber 21-23.5 mm below the plane of the connector of the carburetor body and cover.

Rice. Checking the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber: 1 - scale ruler; 2 - glass tube; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - carburetor

The level of gasoline in the float chamber can be determined using a glass tube 2 with a diameter of at least 9 mm, connected by a rubber tube with a specially made fitting 3, which is screwed in instead of a drain plug into the bottom of the float chamber.

To check the gasoline level, there is a convex mark on the wall of the float chamber housing.

After screwing the fitting into the hole closed by the drain plug, the glass tube is held in a vertical position, pressing it against the wall of the float chamber housing, and the manual pumping lever is used to pump gasoline into the carburetor.

The ruler 1 measures the distance from the upper plane of the float chamber to the fuel level in the float chamber (to the lower part of the meniscus).

After checking the level, install the drain plug.

Adjusting the carburetor when the engine is running at low crankshaft speed at idle

Economical engine operation is largely dependent on correct carburetor adjustment when the engine is running at low idle speeds. This adjustment is carried out on a warm engine - the oil temperature is not less than 60-70 °, using the screw 8 for operational adjustment.

The speed of the engine crankshaft during idling is set at 950-1050 min-1 (rpm).

If the K-133A carburetor is used, the forced idle economizer 9 (EPHH), the microswitch 16 and the solenoid valve 21 are not installed on the car. The idle speed adjustment of the crankshaft is similar to the adjustment on the K-133 carburetor.

Gasoline Sump Maintenance

Caring for a gasoline sump (installed on the left side member under the floor of the car) consists in draining water and sludge, as well as flushing the filter element (set of plates), for which you need to unscrew the bolt on the sump cover and remove the housing together with the filter element. When disassembling the sump, it is important not to damage the gasket, which ensures the tightness of the body. To drain the sediment from the filter, unscrew the drain plug at the bottom of the housing, drain the sediment and rinse the filter with clean gasoline.

Caring for the ignition coil

During operation, you must do the following:

Avoid contamination of the plastic cover, terminals and wires; at each technical inspection, wipe the cover with a cloth - dry or soaked in pure gasoline.
Do not loosen the fastening of the wires to the terminals of the cover.
Protect the coil from mechanical damage; a crack in the lid or a dent in the shroud can damage the coil.

At each technical inspection, clean the ventilation holes of the resistor located between the legs of the coil mounting clamp from dirt.

Caring for the ignition distributor

During operation, it is necessary to maintain the distributor contacts in good condition (keep them clean and check the size of the gap between them), monitor the lubrication of rubbing parts and remember that it is forbidden to use oil from the engine crankcase to lubricate the distributor and that excessive lubrication of the distributor is harmful, since can lead to rapid wear of the breaker contacts and failure of the valve.

It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the cover and the distributor housing, as well as the contact of the wire lugs in the cover terminals. In case of insufficiently reliable contact, the plastic of the cover inside the terminal sockets burns out, which leads to the failure of the cover and the tips of the candles.

At maintenance the distributor follows:

Remove the distributor cap and carefully wipe it inside and out with a dry, clean cloth or a cloth soaked in gasoline. Inspect the cover and slider.
Check the reliability of the connection of the low and high voltage wires.
Check the fastening of the pipes of the vacuum regulator of the distributor.
Check if there is no seizure of the contact carbon - resistance in the cover.
Turn the cover of the lubricator supplying grease to the distributor shaft 1-2 turns. If the cover of the oiler is completely screwed in, unscrew it and fill it with CIATIM-201 or LITOL-24 grease. Lubricate the rubbing parts of the distributor with clean engine oil by dropping: 1-2 drops onto the axis of the contact lever, 4-5 drops into the cam bushing (by removing the slider and the oil seal under it), 1-2 drops onto the cam felt.
Check the cleanliness of the breaker contacts and, if necessary, remove dirt and oil from them. The contacts should be wiped with chamois soaked in gasoline. Instead of suede, you can use any fabric that does not leave fibers on the contacts, and instead of gasoline, you can use alcohol. After grinding the contacts, you need to pull the breaker lever from the fixed contact for a few seconds to allow the gasoline to evaporate.
Check status work surface contacts and, if necessary, clean them. The contacts are cleaned with a special abrasive file or on an abrasive bar with fine grain by removing the lever and the stand with a fixed contact from the distributor. When cleaning the contacts, you need to remove the bump on one of them and somewhat smooth the surface of the other, on which a depression (crater) is formed. It is not recommended to withdraw this indentation completely. After cleaning the contacts to remove dust, the breaker must be blown out with dry compressed air, wipe the contacts with a dry clean cloth (passing it between the contacts) and adjust the gap between them.
Inspect the cam and, if it is dirty, wipe it with a dry clean cloth and lubricate it with a thin layer of CIATIM-201 grease.

Adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts

To ensure normal operation of the ignition system, the gap between the breaker contacts must be adjusted within 0.35-0.45 mm or, in engine diagnostics, the angle of the closed contact is 54-62 ° along the distributor shaft.

The clearance is adjusted as follows. It is necessary to remove the distributor cover 1 and slider 2 and slowly turn the engine crankshaft with the starting handle to the position where the gap between the contacts 3 of the breaker is greatest, that is, when the textolite cam 4 of the breaker is installed on the top of the edge of the cam 5. After that, check the gap with a flat feeler between contacts. If the gap does not correspond to the value indicated above, it is necessary to loosen the screw 17 and, turning the eccentric 6, set the required gap, then fasten the screw and check the gap again. Then you need to put the cover back in place and fix it with latches 8. After adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts, the correct setting of the ignition timing is violated. Therefore, the ignition setting must be checked and, if required, readjusted.

Installation of ignition

Rice. Ignition distributor: 1 - cover; 2 - slider (distributor rotor); 3 - breaker contacts; 4 - movable contact cam; 5 - cam; 6 - eccentric screw, 7 - low voltage terminal; в "latch; 9 - felt brush for lubricating the cam; 10 - adjusting lever; 11 - nut of the octane-corrector plate fastening bolt; 12 - movable octane-corrector plate; 13 - bolt of the clamp of the movable plate of the octane-corrector; 14 - fixed octane-corrector plate; 15 - nut for fixing the fixed octane-corrector plate; 16 - cap oiler; 17 - locking screw

The ignition is set at the MZ mark indicating the ignition moment in the first cylinder. The beginning of the opening of the breaker contacts should occur at the moment when the МЗ mark on the cover of the oil cleaner coincides with the locating protrusion a on the cover of the distribution gears. In this case, the slider 2 (distributor rotor) must be against the distributor electrode with number 1. The procedure for installing the ignition is as follows:

Remove the distributor cover and rotor, check the gap between the breaker contacts (adjust if necessary). Replace the rotor.
Set the crankshaft to the position corresponding to the start of the compression stroke in the first cylinder.
Slowly turn the engine crankshaft until the mark МЗ coincides with the projection on the camshaft cover. Make sure the rotor is against the cover contact connected to the wire going to the spark plug of the first cylinder.
Loosen nut 11, set the octane corrector to zero scale division by turning the adjusting lever 10, tighten the nut 11 of the bolt securing the octane corrector plates.
Loosen the bolt 18 of the clamp fastening the distributor body to the movable plate 14 of the octane-corrector and turn the body counterclockwise so that the breaker contacts are closed.
Take a portable lamp and two insulated wires. Using additional wires, connect one end of the plug of the portable lamp to ground, and the other end to the low voltage terminal of the ignition coil, to which the wire going to terminal 7 of the distributor is attached.
Turn on the ignition and carefully turn the distributor housing clockwise until the lamp comes on.
Stop the rotation of the distributor exactly at the moment the bulb flashes. If it failed, repeat the operation.
While holding the distributor housing from turning, tighten the bolt 13 of the housing fastening clamp, put the cover 1 in place.
Check the connection of the wires from the spark plugs, starting from the first cylinder, in the order 1-3-4-2, counting them counterclockwise. It should be borne in mind that the installation of ignition according to the MZ mark on the pulley with the middle position of the octane corrector provides the most advantageous power and economic indicators of the engine only if the appropriate gasoline is used to power it.
However, after each installation of the ignition, adjusting the contacts in the breaker or changing the fuel, it is necessary to check the correspondence of the ignition timing while the car is moving. The final ignition setting is performed with an octane corrector. Warm up the engine at idle speed, and then, moving in IV gear on a flat road at a speed of 25-30 km / h, give the car acceleration by sharply pressing the throttle pedal. If, in this case, a slight and short-term detonation is observed, then the ignition is considered set correctly.

In case of strong detonation, the "arrow" of the movable plate should be moved towards the "-" sign to reduce the ignition timing, and in the complete absence of detonation, towards the "+".

The largest angle of advance (or lag) of ignition, provided by manual adjustment using an octane corrector, 12 ° (in terms of the angle of rotation of the engine crankshaft) relative to initial setup(5 ° to TDC).

The engine is very sensitive to the correct setting of the ignition timing; too early or too late ignition leads to overheating of the engine, loss of power, burnout of valves and pistons.

Spark plug care

Every time the vehicle is serviced, unscrew the spark plugs and proceed as follows:

Check the condition of the outer and inner parts of the insulator. If there is carbon build-up on the inside (skirt) of the insulator, clean the insulator with a brush or sandblasting machine. After cleaning the carbon deposits, the candles must be rinsed in gasoline. It is forbidden to clean candles from carbon deposits with sharp metal objects or to burn candles in an open flame, as this may damage the insulator. If carbon deposits are not removed, the plug must be replaced.
Check the gap between the electrodes and, if necessary, adjust it by carefully bending only the side electrode. The gap - 0.6-0.75 mm is checked with a round wire feeler. Before unscrewing the spark plugs, thoroughly wipe the plug socket in the cylinder head from dirt to prevent dirt from getting into the engine. It is advisable to blow out the nests of the candles with compressed air.
Unscrew and tighten the candles with a special socket wrench supplied with the driver's tool. Do not use other keys as this may damage the insulator.
You must first screw in the candle by hand until it stops, and then tighten it tightly with a wrench with a tightening torque of 35-40 Nm (3.5-4 kgf-m). Place a gasket under the spark plug. The absence of a gasket or loose screwing in of the plug leads to overheating and failure of the plug.
It is forbidden to replace the A23-1 spark plugs with others with a lower heat rating. Inconsistency of the heat characteristics of the spark plugs leads to unsatisfactory engine operation, burnout of pistons and exhaust valves.