With the beginning of the second half of summer, when a lot of dew falls in the morning and the rainy season sets in, nightshades are subjected to a merciless attack by phytophthora, also known as brown rot. This extremely insidious pest attacks plants during fruit ripening and is able to destroy the lion's share of the crop. Therefore, it is necessary to fight the disease energetically and systematically, correctly choosing the strategy of "war".
Damage to plants during late blight is caused by oomycetes, which until recently were classified as fungi, and now they have been identified as a separate group of special mycelial organisms. Phytophthora specializes in nightshade representatives, so potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, peppers and physalis become their victims in the beds.
Oomycetes spend most of their life cycle in the spore phase, located in the soil and the remains of diseased plants. Only with the onset of favorable conditions do they move on to active life, the purpose of which is to leave offspring. When the air is heated to a temperature of +25 - +30 ° C, spores in dew drops can germinate and infect the plant within an hour.
Phytophthora is especially active during sudden changes in daily temperature, when the heat of the day is replaced by rather cool nights, which contributes to frequent fogs and heavy dew. Also contribute to its spread and frequent rains in late July and early August. But dry weather, as well as heat above +30 ° C or cooling down to +10 ° C and below, lead to the almost complete fading of the vital processes of the pest.
Phytophthora affects almost all parts of plants: gray-brown spots appear on leaves, fruits or stems. At the same time, in rainy weather, diseased plants rot, and in dry weather, they dry out and crack. From them, spores are washed off into the ground, and are also actively carried around by drops of water and gusts of wind.
Penetrating quite deep into the soil, phytophthora spores successfully endure winter frosts and in summer they again begin to attack nightshade crops. They can also quite safely overwinter in the remains of infected plants abandoned in the garden. 
Is it dangerous for the crop
At the initial stage, gray-brown spots form on the leaves of infected plants. Then the leaves turn brown and die. Phytophthora first affects the leaves near the soil, and then the disease spreads upwards. Juicy, not yet strong young shoots also suffer greatly from pests, on which dark brownish stripes form, which dry out in dry weather and rot in damp weather. The tops and lateral processes of the shoots die off, and the inflorescences located on them turn black and dry out. 
However, the most unpleasant thing for a gardener is the appearance of late blight spots on fruits. First, brownish or gray-green spots appear on them, which grow both on the surface and in depth. After this, the stage of hardening begins and decay begins. In the tubers of diseased potatoes, sunken gray spots form on the surface, and inside the reddish color, the affected tissues reach the center. With a strong infection of nightshade crops with this insidious pest, up to 80% of the crop can be lost.
How to treat
Unfortunately, at the moment there are no such effective chemical or biological preparations with which it would be possible to completely disinfect the territory from phytophthora.
The proposed substances can significantly suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms, but the soil will not be completely freed from them. Also, there is no way to cure a plant after being hit by a disease. 
In the fight against the pest, chemical preparations containing copper have proven themselves quite well. The easiest way is to shed the soil for planting nightshade crops with a 1 - 3% solution of copper sulfate, after which the site should be dug up and additionally treated with such a microbiological preparation as Fitosporin-M. You can also use the copper-containing fungicide Ordan.
There is a fairly common belief among gardeners that chlorine is an effective way to combat this pest. However, it is unlikely that this substance will be able to destroy the spores, but it will be possible to harm the humus for sure. Neither the soil nor the plants will benefit from this.
Chemicals suppress not only pathogenic microorganisms, but also harm useful fungi in the soil. Unlike them, microbiological preparations act more selectively, since they contain colonies of microorganisms for which pest spores serve as food. The earth is not exposed to harmful influences.
To prevent outbreaks of late blight, it is effective to use such microbiological preparations as Fitosporin-M, Mikosan or Shine. During the summer they should be applied three times. For the soil in those places where it is planned to plant flowers or strawberries, you can use Alirin, which is similar in composition and effect to Fitosporin. If these preparations are not available, then the soil can be treated with Bordeaux mixture. 
Prevention
It is very difficult to get rid of late blight that has appeared on the site. However, the implementation of preventive measures allows you to minimize its spread and collect an excellent harvest. Since the main source of infection is the earth, the lion's share of efforts is directed to it.
Fungicides and microbiological preparations are used to destroy spores in the soil. Since chemicals decompose for a rather long time, after they are introduced, vegetables can only be eaten after a month. Therefore, treatment with copper-containing substances is carried out in early spring. The introduction of microbiological preparations into the soil is allowed at any time, with the exception of the flowering period, when they can harm the nectar-gathering bees.
Phytophthora spores enter plants from the soil through moist air streams ascending from the heated earth. In order to effectively prevent this process, mulching is used. Covering the ground in spring with a layer of mulch a few centimeters thick becomes a reliable barrier against many diseases, the sources of which are spores of pathogenic fungi hibernating in the soil.
It is also important not to plant solanaceous crops densely in the ground. In addition to the fact that the plants in this case lack light and are poorly ventilated, phytophthora will easily move around the beds and infect large areas. 
Autumn cleaning and burning of all waste outside the site helps to effectively get rid of spores remaining in the ground parts of plants. After that, the soil should be deeply dug.
A good result is the use of a drip irrigation system for plants. At the same time, the soil is not waterlogged, and the plants receive the optimal amount of moisture for their growth and development. A good way to prevent is the use of crop rotation. Solanaceae on the same plots of soil should be planted at intervals of three to four years.
Another option to avoid damage to plants by late blight is the cultivation of certain varieties of nightshade. It can be either especially pest-resistant varieties or early-ripening ones, the ripening of which occurs at the time when late blight begins to actively multiply.
Video " Processing ground tomatoes from late blight”
On the record, a woman talks about the method of processing nightshade plants from a disease such as late blight.
Growing strawberries, many gardeners are faced not only with annoying pests, but also with all sorts of diseases. One of these ailments is late blight. This is a rather dangerous disease, which is difficult to treat. Its manifestations, methods of struggle and preventive measures will be discussed in this article.
Peculiarities
Late blight is a fungal disease that can quickly cause crop loss. The forecasts are disappointing: usually about half of the bushes die, and in advanced cases, all at once. Phytophthora is dangerous in that it easily moves from plant to plant, gradually capturing the entire area.
There are two forms of the disease: chronic and transient.
Chronic
This form is characterized by the fact that the plant does not die immediately. Even if it gets sick, it will live for about two more years. At the beginning of spring, an attentive summer resident will be able to note the underdevelopment of the bushes, their stuntedness, short stature. Twisted gray leaves are also a sign of a chronic form of the disease.
The affected bush may bear fruit, but there will be few strawberries, and its taste will not deserve high praise. In some cases, fruiting stops altogether, and the leaves dry and fall off.
Fleeting
Everything is much worse here: the plant dies rapidly, within a few weeks or faster. The bush will wither sharply. If you pull it out of the ground, you can find rotten, lifeless roots. Everything is affected: foliage, stem, roots, sepals, ovaries. Cutting the root, redness will be noticeable - this is another sign of phytophthora.
Signs of infection
The first sign that the attack has attacked the bushes is the appearance of withered leaves that fall to the ground. During rain or cloudy weather with fog, strange spots on the leaves can be noted, they are usually brown in color, oily to the touch. Already formed foliage becomes stiff and rough, begins to curl. The ovaries, and then the strawberries, acquire a dark shade. At the stage when it is too late to treat the disease, the fruits begin to rot.
The good thing is that you can notice early and prevent the spread of the disease, because phytophthora develops gradually.
- First, the disease affects the buds. The flowers darken, and inexperienced gardeners often associate this manifestation with frost. Perhaps this is so, but after frost, the ovaries do not form, but with late blight - completely.
- Then the attack goes to the berries. The fruits also turn out dark, curved. On a dark background, rare light spots are clearly visible. If you cut a strawberry, you will find a black, rotten flesh inside.
- The next stage is the defeat of the roots. Small ones begin to rot and die, large and strong ones are exposed. The entire root system turns black.
- The final stage is the external change of the plant. The leaves acquire a blue tint, there are almost no fruits and ovaries. The bushes are deformed, do not differ in good growth.
Of course, late blight is not taken from nowhere.
Consider the causes that may contribute to the appearance of the disease.
- infected bushes. When buying seedlings, contact only a trusted manufacturer or nursery. Grandmothers on the market will sell three times cheaper, but it may turn out that then you have to pay a high price.
- Incorrect landing and non-observance of distance. Do not think that a thick, seedling-filled bed is the best way to increase the volume of the crop. Nothing but diseases can be obtained.
- No weeding. Weed grass, which grows in abundance among the culture, will be an excellent breeding ground for fungus and pests.
- Planting strawberries in the same place. The term for planting a crop is three years, then the site needs to be changed. Also, do not plant nearby plants prone to late blight.
- Lack of supplements. Strawberries are in dire need of fertilizer. If this fact is not taken into account, the disease will not be long in coming.
- Using dirty tools. All the tools used by the summer resident must be processed, otherwise the disease will be transferred to other crops.
Methods of treatment
To cure late blight, you can use chemicals or use folk remedies.
Chemicals
The best remedy for the disease will be Nitrafen. It is bred strictly in accordance with the instructions on the package. First, plants that are no longer amenable to treatment are uprooted, then the soil is cultivated. The period of "healing" will last a long time, so you have to wait until the bush is completely covered with foliage.
A good solution would be to use products containing copper, for example, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, Oxyhom. The plant begins to be sprayed at the first suspicion of phytophthora.
If the gardener noticed the disease too late, you can still try to save the plant. For this, strong fungicides are used: Horus, Ridomil, Topaz, Quadris. Treat the bushes until they bloom. When the disease has just begun to manifest itself, it is better to refuse such drugs and opt for more harmless drugs.
Another good remedy would be iodine solution. To prepare it, mix a vial of ordinary iodine with two tablespoons of soda and twenty grams of laundry soap. Dilute in a bucket of water. Process strawberries until the end of summer once every two weeks.
Folk remedies
Folk methods will help those who have a negative attitude towards chemical additives, and also prefer accessibility and low cost.
- Milk infusion. Take two liters of milk or whey, dilute in a bucket of water. Spray the bushes with the resulting product.
- Infusion of garlic. Finely chop or chop two hundred grams of garlic in a meat grinder, dilute in a bucket of water and leave for three days. Then pour thirty grams of grated laundry soap into the solution, mix everything and treat the plant with this composition.
- Ash infusion. Take three hundred grams of ash and thirty grams of soap. All this must be diluted in a bucket of water and spray strawberries with a solution.
- Nettle infusion. One and a half kilograms of chopped nettle for a day is poured with a bucket of water. Over time, the bushes are sprayed.
Seed propagation in the garden strawberry familiar to us, unfortunately, leads to the appearance of less productive plants and weaker bushes. But another type of these sweet berries - alpine strawberries, can be successfully grown from seeds. Let's learn about the main advantages and disadvantages of this crop, consider the main varieties and features of agricultural technology. The information presented in this article will help you decide whether it is worth giving her a place in the berry.
Often, at the sight of a beautiful flower, we instinctively bend over to smell its fragrance. All fragrant flowers can be divided into two large groups: nocturnal (pollinated by nocturnal butterflies) and daytime, whose pollinators are mainly bees. Both groups of plants are important for the grower and designer, because we often stroll through the garden during the day and relax in our favorite corners with the onset of the evening. We are never put off by the fragrance of our favorite fragrant flowers.
Pumpkin is considered by many gardeners to be the queen of the beds. And not only because of its size, variety of shapes and colors, but also for its excellent taste, useful qualities and a rich harvest. Pumpkin contains a large amount of carotene, iron, various vitamins and minerals. Due to the possibility of long-term storage, this vegetable maintains our health all year round. If you decide to plant a pumpkin on your site, you will be interested to know how to get the largest possible harvest.
Scotch eggs are amazing! Try to cook this dish at home, there is nothing difficult to prepare. Scotch eggs are a hard boiled egg wrapped in minced meat, breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried. For frying, you need a frying pan with a high rim, and if you have a deep fryer, then it's just great - even less hassle. You will also need deep-frying oil so as not to smoke the kitchen. Choose farm eggs for this recipe.
One of the most amazing large-flowered tub cubanola Dominican fully justifies the status of a tropical miracle. Heat-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique bells of flowers, cubanola is a fragrant star with a difficult character. It requires special conditions in the rooms. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior, the best (and more chocolatey) candidate for the role of indoor giant cannot be found.
Chickpea Curry with Meat is a hearty hot dish for lunch or dinner inspired by Indian cuisine. This curry is quick to prepare, but requires pre-preparation. Chickpeas must first be soaked in plenty of cold water for several hours, preferably overnight, the water can be changed several times. It is also better to leave the meat in the marinade overnight so that it turns out juicy and tender. Then you should boil the chickpeas until tender and then cook the curry according to the recipe.
Rhubarb can not be found in every garden plot. It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious jams, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruit and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! A large green or red rosette of plant leaves, reminiscent of burdock, acts as a beautiful backdrop for annuals. Not surprisingly, rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.
Today, experiments with non-banal combinations and non-standard colors in the garden are in trend. For example, plants with black inflorescences have become very fashionable. All black flowers are original and specific, and it is important for them to be able to select suitable partners and a position. Therefore, this article will not only introduce you to the range of plants with slate-black inflorescences, but also teach you the intricacies of using such mystical plants in garden design.
3 delicious sandwiches - cucumber sandwich, chicken sandwich, cabbage and meat sandwich - a great idea for a quick snack or for a picnic in nature. Only fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and a little spice. There is no onion in these sandwiches, if you wish, you can add an onion marinated in balsamic vinegar to any of the sandwiches, this will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, it remains to collect a picnic basket and go to the nearest green lawn.
Depending on the variety group, the age of seedlings suitable for planting in open ground is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, medium ripening - 55-60 and late terms - at least 70 days. When planting seedlings of tomatoes at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly extended. But success in obtaining a high-quality crop of tomatoes also depends on the careful implementation of the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.
Unpretentious plants of the "second plan" sansevieria do not seem boring to those who appreciate minimalism. They are better than other indoor decorative foliage stars for collections that require minimal maintenance. Stable decorative effect and extreme endurance of only one type of sansevieria are also combined with compactness and very fast growth - Khan's rosette sansevieria. The squat rosettes of their stiff leaves create striking clusters and patterns.
One of the brightest months of the garden calendar pleasantly surprises with the balance of the distribution of favorable and unsuccessful days for working with plants according to the lunar calendar. Gardening and gardening in June can be done throughout the month, while the unfavorable periods are very short and still allow you to do useful work. There will be their optimal days for crops with plantings, and for pruning, and for a reservoir, and even for construction work.
Meat with mushrooms in a pan is an inexpensive hot dish that is suitable for a regular lunch and for a festive menu. Pork will cook quickly, veal and chicken too, so this meat is preferable for the recipe. Mushrooms - fresh champignons, in my opinion, the best choice for homemade stew. Forest gold - mushrooms, boletus and other goodies are best harvested for the winter. Boiled rice or mashed potatoes are ideal as a side dish.
I love ornamental shrubs, especially unpretentious and with an interesting, non-trivial foliage color. I have different Japanese spireas, Thunberg barberries, black elderberry ... And there is one special shrub that I will talk about in this article - the viburnum vesicle. To make my dream of a low maintenance garden come true, it's probably the perfect fit. At the same time, it is able to diversify the picture in the garden very much, moreover, from spring to autumn.
Phytophthora is a fungus that can infect all nightshade crops, which include tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplant and physalis.
late blight affects any part of the plant, and fruits, and leaves, and stems. The fungus becomes especially active at high humidity, heavy dew, frequent fogs, strong temperature drops, when it is rather cool at night and very hot during the day, as well as with dense plantings of nightshade crops in one area.
Usually, late blight disease is rampant in late July - early August.
Phytophthora needs hot and humid weather to reproduce and thrive. The spores of the fungus germinate well in dew drops, if it is + 25–30 ° outside, then germination occurs in an hour, and at + 15 ° - in three days, in dry weather the fungus will not germinate at all.
Infected plants should be removed by the roots and burned; it is advisable not to eat the fruits from such a plant.
Phytophthora destroyed a tomato plantation
Preventive tillage from phytophthora
In autumn, when cleaning the garden, you need to carefully remove all waste, especially in those areas where nightshade grew, burn the collected garbage outside the site, and dig the soil as deep as possible. We also advise you to follow the rules of crop rotation, you should not plant nightshade in the same places earlier than after 3-4 years.
After outbreaks of late blight, complete soil treatment is recommended, for example, with a preparation Fitosporin
, but over the summer it is necessary to carry out the treatment three times, if there is no such or similar preparation, then we process the soil with Bordeaux liquid.
For prevention, it is recommended to spray nightshade crops every 10 days throughout the growing season with the following compositions:
1. For 10 liters of water, add 1 liter of sour kefir.
2.200 g of garlic insist in a liter of water during the day, dilute the infusion in 10 liters of water.
3. Bordeaux mixture.
4. For 10 liters of water we take 1 tsp. copper sulfate, 1 tsp boric acid.1 tsp potassium permanganate. All components are steamed separately with boiling water, then after cooling, mix.
Phytophthora affected potatoes
The fight against phytophthora - the method of selection of varieties
If cases of the spread of phytophthora have become more frequent in your garden, try to avoid this by selecting varieties. There may be two options to choose from, either early-ripening varieties - so that the crop is ripe and harvested before the onset of the phytophthora season, or select varieties that are resistant to this disease.
Preventive treatment with chemicals.
Before the time of late blight activity, foliar spraying of all nightshade crops with special chemicals to combat late blight can be carried out. These funds are well known to gardeners and can be purchased and sold in specialized stores. Only use them carefully, carefully studying the instructions for use on the package.
But we immediately note that there are no effective chemical poisons to combat phytophthora. Pesticides inhibit the development of the fungus, but do not completely remove it.
How to get rid of phytophthora by non-chemical methods
Very often, experienced gardeners use old folk remedies:
1. We take 40 g of garlic, grind it, add it to a bucket of water and insist for a day. Next, you need to strain the infusion and spray nightshade. Such processing should be carried out every week, the entire growing season.
2. During the season of disease activity, every evening you need to cover a bed with bushes of nightshade crops with a large piece of one of the following materials: Agrofibre, Spunbond, Agrin, Agrotex, Plantex, Lutrasil. Phytophthora infection can be avoided - the bushes will not get wet from dew.
Late blight on eggplant leaves
3. Do the same on rainy days.
4. Mulch the soil with some light-colored material, or sprinkle it with lime, so you will reduce the flow of hot air from the heated surface of the earth.
5. The treatment of bushes with growth regulators gives good results, as they increase the immunity of plants and, accordingly, increase the resistance to the disease. The following medications are suitable: Oxyhumate - 10 ml per 1 liter of water, Ecosil - 1 ml per 3 liters of water, Epin - 2 ml per 10 liters of water, Epin plus - 2 ml per 10 liters of water or Ecosil VE - 1 ml per 3 liters of water.
6. Another folk way: when the seedlings of tomatoes or eggplants in the garden get stronger, at a height of 4-5 cm from the ground, each stem should be pierced through with a piece of ordinary copper wire cut obliquely. The copper contained in the wire will not give the phytophthora fungus a single chance.
How to fertilize tomatoes in the ground to quickly ...
Strawberries, no less than other berry crops, are susceptible to diseases of various kinds. Most strawberries are affected by fungal diseases. In addition to fungal diseases, diseases, both bacterial and viral, can also develop. In addition to these, mycoplasma disorders can also develop on strawberries.
Strawberry diseases - Brown spot
- Marsonia Potentillae f. fragariae
The most harmful to the leaf apparatus - with a strong development of brown spotting, half of the leaves die off.
During the laying of color buds, the fungus progresses most actively. This is in the second half of summer.
This type of spotting is very weakening plants. Increasing spots of purple color form on the leaves over time. When the leaf dies, it already turns purple all over.
On petioles and mustaches, similar spots are small, depressed.
The brown spot fungus spreads with rain and insects. Therefore, the best conditions for its propagation are the presence of available moisture (eg drip irrigation). The disease overwinters on old leaves.
Based on this, the very first preventive action should be the complete removal of old leaves. In spring, plantations are sprayed with Falcon, Euparen, Ridomil and Metaxil.
Strawberry diseases - Brown spot
- Zythia Fragariae
One of the most common diseases, which extremely weakens the bushes and reduces the yield for the next year.
First of all, the leaves become ill, then the petioles, mustaches, stalks, sepals and berries.
Spots appear on the plant. At first they are round purple in color, and over time a gray-brown core appears inside. Such spots quickly increase in size and spread throughout the leaf. Necrosis is formed on other organs.
The pathogen overwinters on infected leaves. If they are not destroyed in the fall, infection is guaranteed to you. In autumn, you can also treat the beds with Ordan. In the spring - all the same Ridomil, Quadris, Metaxil and Falcon.
Strawberry diseases - Red spot
Red Spotted Strawberry - Diplocarpon earliana
The harmfulness of the red spot is medium.
On the affected leaves, red spots are formed, which, with a massive lesion, merge into one. Leaves turn yellow and die.
To prevent the development of red leaf spot, healthy seedlings are grown, adhere to all the rules of agricultural technology. Plant resistant varieties. The most effective fungicide is Euparen.
Strawberry diseases - Powdery mildew
- Sphaerotheca macularis, Spaherotheca aphanis, Oidium Fragariae
Like many fungal diseases of berries, it affects leaves, petioles, mustaches, and berries at the same time. Harmfulness depends on the degree of development of powdery mildew on strawberry plants.
A white fluffy coating appears on diseased leaf plates on both sides. These leaves stop growing, become rough, twist inward. Over time, brown necrosis is formed on the lower part of the leaf blades.
Infected whiskers curl, their leaves become chlorotic.
It is very difficult to visually notice powdery mildew on generative organs. But during flowering, the pollination process proceeds with complications, or does not proceed at all. Berries grow ugly, deformed, have an unpleasant taste and appearance.
Such a pathogen develops more often in greenhouse conditions, since it is in them that the air is often warm and humid. In the open ground, the disease brings the greatest harm during periods of humid, warm summers.
Powdery mildew of strawberries is airborne and overwinters on planting material. Preventive control measures will be treatments with Quadris, Fundazol and Bayleton.
Strawberry diseases - gray mold
- Botryotinia fuckeliana
It occupies a leading place among the common diseases of berry crops. It affects the entire above-ground part of the bush.
Most noticeable in fruits. The fabric turns brown, softens. A gray coating appears on the sore spot. At high humidity - a fluffy white mycelium is also formed on top. In speed, the berries dry up.
Since the beginning of April, strawberries have been sprayed up to 3-4 times at weekly intervals with Fundazol, Topsin M, Euparen.
Strawberry diseases - Late blight of roots
- Phytophthora Fragariae
Late blight is ubiquitous.
The peak of fungal development occurs in May and June (warm dry weather). The root system is affected in such a way that either the entire plant or the lower leaves immediately wither. At the initial stage, reddening of the axial cylinder of the root is visible. Over time, only the largest roots remain - all other small ones die off.
The oldest leaves die off quickly, the rest first change color to bluish-red.
The main disadvantage of late blight, in addition to the obvious, is that the pathogen persists in a newly sprouted root sprout.
The source of infection, in this case, is the planting material and the soil itself.
Compliance with crop rotation, the use of healthy seedlings and treatment with Ridomil are the main ways to prevent the spread of late blight of the roots.
Strawberry diseases - Late blight rot
- Phytophthora Cactorum
This type of rot is one of the most harmful. In the best case, the losses are 20%, in the worst case, the crop is completely destroyed.
The disease affects the completely aerial part of the plant, most of all it harms the berries. Dark purple leathery dense spots appear on them. The pulp of such berries does not separate from the rest, it becomes elastic. Such berries acquire a bitter taste. Green fruits are bitter and hard. They also show dark brown spots with purple patches. Such strawberries are mummified.
The affected stem turns brown and dries out. The same happens with other diseased organs.
In the presence of free moisture, strawberry late blight rot has favorable conditions for development. It actively develops during rainy periods, as well as with drip irrigation (as a result of improper application).
The fungus persists in the soil and on rosettes of bushes. For the prevention of the disease, both standard agrotechnical and chemical methods of protection are effective.
Strawberry diseases - Fusarium wilt
- Fusarium oxysporum
A dangerous disease that affects the entire plant. The bush gradually fades and shrinks. Plants that are severely affected turn brown. This disease, unlike many others, prefers heat. It is in such weather that mass infection with Fusarium wilt begins.
The initial sources of infection are the soil in which the pathogen is able to live for several years, weeds, plant debris and some vegetables.
At the first signs of wilting, it is necessary to do an analysis. If the diagnosis is confirmed, strawberries should be immediately treated with Fundazol. At the initial stage, Trichoderma treatments can be carried out.
Strawberry diseases - Verticillium wilt
- Verticillium Albo-Atrum
Active damage begins 2-3 years after the beginning of the development of the fungus. Ultimately, 50% of the berry crop may deteriorate.
Withering begins with damage to the vascular system, root neck, rosette and root system.
The infected plant first seems to settle, after which all the leaves on it lie down. The color of the plant becomes red-yellow.
The fungus can survive on many vegetables and weeds. Also, for several years it can live in the ground.
Of the agrotechnical protection measures, the most effective is the cultivation of strawberries in a properly designed crop rotation. Spraying is carried out with Trichoderma and Fundazol.
Bacterial diseases of strawberries
Strawberry diseases - Bacterial burn
Strawberry blight - Erwinia amylovora
A very dangerous harmful bacterial disease of strawberries and other berry crops.
Bacterial burn appears on the leaves in the form of characteristic spots.
To minimize the possibility of infection with this bacterial planting infection, you need to remove the hawthorn and wild trees. It is in them that the pathogen is stored for the longest time.
During the flowering period, crops can be treated up to 5 times with antibiotics or Bordeaux mixture.
Completely affected plants are destroyed.
Strawberry diseases - Bacterial root cancer
Bacterial canker of strawberry roots - Agrobacterium tumefaciens
A rather dangerous bacterial disease of strawberries can destroy the entire crop.
Such cancer occurs in regions where low temperatures prevail in winter, as well as where hail is possible. Favored by this and mechanical damage.
Bacteria move throughout the plant. Moreover, they can remain in it for a long time without causing root cancer. That is, as if preserved.
This is precisely the root cause of the danger of bacterial cancer of the root system.
To prevent disease, seedlings are bacterized.
Viral diseases of strawberries
Strawberry diseases - mottle virus
Strawberry mottle virus - Strawberry moltle virus
When infected with the mottle virus, in some unstable varieties, the yield is reduced by 30%. In addition, the berries are smaller.
It spreads, like all viral diseases, mainly by aphids.
Control measures are also of agrotechnical nature.
Strawberry Disease - Wrinkle Virus
Strawberry wrinkle virus - Strawberry Crinkle Virus
The most harmful viral disease of strawberries. Often occurs simultaneously with some fungal diseases, significantly worsening the condition of the plantings.
Chlorotic spots protrude along the main vein on the leaves in spring and autumn. As a result, the growth of leaf plates is disturbed and becomes uneven. The leaves wrinkle, turn yellow and darken.
The virus is carried by insects, pollen and seeds.
Disease prevention, exclusively agrotechnical.
Mycoplasma diseases of strawberries
greening petals
- Strawberry Green Petal
A rare, moderately harmful disease.
Appears on flowers. They change shape, turn pink. Gradually, the petals turn green and some of them turn into leaves. Many flowers become sterile. The fruits dry up at the initial stage of development.
Antibiotics of the tetracycline group are the only treatment option. In addition, it is not recommended to plant strawberries near fields with clover.
Strawberry diseases - Damn broom
Damn strawberry broom - Strawberry Witches
As a result of this disease, the bushes are deformed. A large number of seedlings grow around the mother plant on very short mustaches. The leaves are small, twisted, light green. They are arranged in such a way that the bush becomes like a broom. Most infected bushes are sterile.
The only way to fight is to use healthy planting material. Infected strawberries are destroyed.
Ways to deal with strawberry diseases
Agrotechnical methods for protecting strawberries from diseases
- selection of only healthy seedlings;
- growing strawberries in a properly designed crop rotation;
- control of the amount of moisture in the area;
- destruction of pests and weeds;
- use of resistant varieties and hybrids.
Resistant and susceptible strawberry varieties and hybrids to diseases
late blight wilt
Resistant hybrids: Aliso, Gorela, Cambridge Favorite, totem, Redgauntlet, Redchief, Talisman, Tristan, Tribute, Earlidown.
Highly susceptible: Zenga Zengana, Firefax, Early Maherauch.
Late blight leathery rot
Resistant: Beam of VIR, Bravo, Olympus, Grenadir, Epic, Burned, Early Dense, Bohemia, Zenga Zengana, Belrubi, Sakhalinskaya, Firefax, Ruby Pendant, Cinderella, Dawn, Talka, Eternal Spring.
Highly susceptible: Festivalnaya, Beauty of Zagorye, Nadezhda, Zenith, Early Maherauch, Redgauntlet.
verticillium wilt
Resistant: Carnival, Bohemia, Talisman, Beam of VIR, Purple, Corrado, Vesnyanka, Zenga Zengana, Redcoat, Redgauntlet, Tribute, Ruby Pendant, Eternal Spring, Early Dense, Epic, Tristar.
Resistant: Ray of VIR, Olympus, Snezhana, Govorovskaya, Bravo, Maria, Bohemia, Early, Dense, New, Timiryazevka, Festivalnaya, Dawn, Epic, Zephyr, First Kiss, Anniversary Govorova.
brown spot
Resistant: Beam of VIR, Early Dense, Olympus, Bravo, Maria, Ruby Pendant, Fireworks, Firefax, Cardinal, Premier, Redcoat, Epic, Marieva Makheraukh, Jubilee Govorova.
Angular spotting
Resistant: Beam of VIR, Olympus, Bohemia, Bravo, Early Dense, Epic, Zenith, Sieger, Maria, Snezhana, Govorovskaya, Carnival, Unexpected Joy, Anniversary Govorova.
powdery mildew
Resistant: Ray of VIR, Carnival, Bohemia, Rus, Govorovskaya, Purple, Ruby Pendant, Epic, Zenith, Fireworks, Delicious, Zenga Zengana, Dewdrop, Redcoat, Borovitskaya, Cinderella, Poppy, Marieva Makheraukh, Vityaz, Slavutich, Redgontlet.
Susceptible: Festival, Dawn, Komsomolskaya Pravda, Early Dense, Inexhaustible.
Gray rot
Resistant: Bohemia, Epic, Beam of VIR, Early Dense, Russia, Olympus, Bravo, Mommy, Leningrad Late, Amulet, Borovitskaya, Holiday, Grenadir, Redgauntlet, Crown, Redglow, Redcoat, Troubadour, Totem, Source, Ruby Pendant, Generous, Fireworks, Burned, Marieva Makheraukh, Festival Chamomile, Love of the Volga Region, Dukat, Solnechnaya Polyanka.
Susceptible: Zenga Zengana, Beauty of Zagorye, Hope, Relay, Cinderella.
Biological means of protecting strawberries from diseases
Agate 25K- a biofungicide that increases the immunity of plants. Applied at a concentration of 7g / l.
Gaupsin- a biological product with a wide spectrum of action. Used against powdery mildew, bacteriosis, late blight and others. For 1 ha, 6 liters of Gaupsin are consumed in 300 liters of water.
Chemicals
- used in 3-4% concentration before the beginning of the growing season and in a 1% solution before flowering and after harvesting against angular leaf spot, gray rot.
- Soap-copper emulsion, consisting of 20 g of soap and a liter of water, destroys powdery mildew.
- and Azocen at concentrations of 5 and 20 g per 10 liters of water, respectively, are also effective against powdery mildew.
- , (a.i. triadimefon, 25%) - against powdery mildew, gray rot and spotting in the amount of 150 g/ha.
- Switch, vdg (a.i. fludioxonil + cyprodinil, 250 + 375 g / kg) - applicable against gray rot, powdery mildew, spotting. Use at a concentration of 8-10 g / 10 l.
- Horus, vg (a.i. cyprodinil, 75%) - has the same spectrum of action as Switch. Before flowering, it is used in an amount of 6 g / 10 l, after - 4 g / 10 l.
Folk remedies for protecting strawberries from diseases
- Iodine - a solution of 5-10 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water helps protect strawberries from diseases.
- Potassium permanganate - 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water will help get rid of powdery mildew, gray rot.
